I Have A Question On Using 2 Layers Of 4-5Oz For Holsters

[harley45]

So for the past few years before I found this forum I made all my holsters out of 7-8 oz and all was good. Then I started seeing guys on here talking about using two layers of 4-5 oz and I thought that makes sense I think I'll try. I've had great success with it on pancake style holsters and thought I'd try it on an avenger type or maybe a summer special type. I'm just wondering though before I do it since I'm folding the leather on these do you guys cut both pieces the same size or maybe leave one a little bigger than the other to prevent wrinkles?

Thanks

[Greg528it]

I'm pretty new at this, BUT.. I've had good success with the back piece in 7-8 and 2 flesh side to flesh side together as the front for a lined holster. The manager at the local Tandy shop, when showing me his lined holsters warned me.. Shape the inside piece then the outside piece, gluing as you go along. I took it to heart and have had very smooth insides, no wrinkles. I have since read on here, a week or 2 ago. Glue them flat then form. If you form it right you get no wrinkles. I should try that. This of course does NOT answer your question.

On the pieces I've lined (run 2 -- 4-5 oz) I ran both inside and outside long and let them be longer than the back. The back I've cut to a hair over net shape. I sew together, than trim the excess off leaving 1 smooth edge to then radius and then burnish.

[Dwight]

My lined pancakes are 2 pieces, . . . flesh to flesh, . . . bonded and used as one piece of leather, . . . works fine, . . . no wrinkles, . . . no problems.

My Western holsters are the same: 2 pieces, . . . bonded flesh to flesh, . . . then cut, folded, edged, gouged, sewn, laced, or whatever. Occasionally, I have seen small wrinkles in the underside of the bend where it forms the belt loop. Occasionally, I have seen small wrinkles down the inside of the holster in what would be the sight channel.

Most of the time, . . . that is taken care of by first lightly skiving the INSIDE piece of leather, . . . about 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch wide. Then bond, . . . and use.

Additionally, . . . when I do the bending in those areas, . . . I roll it over a round rod, . . . forming the bend as a roll instead of a flat out "bend" in the leather.

And of course, . . . I've never had anyone ask one of my customers out on the trial, . . . "Would you mind letting me see if your Dwight's Gunleather holster has any wrinkles under the belt?"

For an Avenger style holster, . . . I would follow the same above ideas, . . .

FWIW, . . . my best results have come from using the same leather, . . . cut from the same hide, . . . as much as possible when I make this type of holster.

May God bless,

Dwight

[katsass]

FWIW from the old grumpy guy: I have been sticking leather together to make holsters now since the early 60s. I understand that Bianchi was doing the same thing when building his early stuff in his garage. My way of doing it ALMOST removes the probability of the little inside wrinkle that wants to show up along the long fold of the holster. Usually it doesn't show up at all, but as Dwight says, there is always the chance that a chunk of dead cow skin may want to be arbitrary. I slather the contact cement all over the flesh side of both pieces of the poor deceased cow critter. One piece is left slightly oversize to assist in alignment. When the smelly stuff (I use Weldwood contact cement in the original formula -- don't particularly care for the 'green' version) is basically dry to the touch, I stick the two together. I then use an old wallpaper roller to ensure total contact. Finally I lay a chunk of granite that is polished on one side (I was very glad that no part of a word was on it when I got it -- I think it was a reject from a monument company) on top of the stuff and go off and do anything in the world except screw with the damned thing until 24 hours have past. Very seldom do I find a wrinkle show up -- and even then it's right where Dwight says it is, and damned near invisible. Good luck in your endeavor. Mike.

[jbossartcustomgunleather]

I use barge cement-coat each piece, let dry to the touch-then assemble. I use a wide roller(or those granite kitchen rolling pins for large pieces) over the entire piece, then I use a small steel roller at a slight angle on the edges.

Cure time is critical. If the piece doesn't require tight bends I may only wait a couple hours, but for a tight bend I leave it set until the next day.

[Red Cent]

Are all you guys hand sewing?

[harley45]

Thanks for all the responses I now have several things to try!

[Dwight]

Are all you guys hand sewing?

Hands are for hamburgers, . . . machines are for sewing.

I would probably drop down to key fobs and ankle bracelets if I had to go back to hand sewing. I traded off a stainless 1911 to get my Boss, . . . and, yeah, . . . there have been times when I questioned the move, . . . but my son can put it in the yard sale when I'm gone, . . . for now, I'm using it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[jbossartcustomgunleather]

Machine stitching for almost a year now, I don't know how I used to do that!

[camano ridge]

Everything i make and have made for the last 40 years, wether it be a holster, buscadero belt or rifle scabbard etc. is hand sewn.