Adler 20-2, Anyone Here Using It?

[AndreNL]

_{@Constabulary:}

_{I read ( http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56445&hl=servo ) that you've made a speed reducer! They are also for sale on various websites but why did you make your own version? Was it cheaper or did you alter the reduction? I also couldn't figure out how the axle is supported at the open end..?}

_{Can you tell me ( us) more about your setup?}

_André

[VanRhodes]

@Constabulary: Sorry, I began writing my reply before I noticed you edited your last post. My machine is an Adler 20-7. I do have that front foot as well but I dont use alot and as I said I will be making a new set of feet for this machine.

[Constabulary]

@ VanRhodes

No problem at all, I did not know about the exact function of the front foot, I just noticed the "emptiness" and thought it is some sort or walking foot.

I´m also learning

@AndreNL

Because of the speed reducer - 1st of all they are almost not available in Germany (or even Europe) without calling dozens of companies - if at all.

I do not know a single company in Germany who sells them regularly through their website and I´m not the one who is making dozens of phone calls to get the things I need. Ordering in the US cots a lot of shipping + custom fees + import vat. So that was not an option for me. The reduction is the same that others have too 2" - 3" - 4" But I don't need the 3" pulley. It was just to try out how this thing works - I had no Idea.

My speed reducer cots me 40€ for the step pulley (milled out of full aluminum incl. 2 sealed bearings - so this is TOP quality) + 10€ for shaft and some screws + bolts. The Mount is an old sewing motor mount so it didn't cost me a buck. That is at least 1/3 of the price I would pay when I order it in the US.

Furthermore my variant is more versatile. I can shift the pulley sideways and can switch where I need the small or large pulley (left or right side). Not that I need these features but I had this idea and I think it turned out very well.

[Constabulary]

@ AndreNL

here you can see how versatile it is.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=355668

[shoepatcher]

I checked the Adler site and they do have an operations manual for the #20 class that you can download. it includes instructions for threading machine. that site again is Sew24.blogspot.com Go to the download section at the top of the page. will bring up various items for different models. Look under Adler 20. hope that helps.

shoepatcher.

[AndreNL]

@ AndreNL

here you can see how versatile it is.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=355668

@ AndreNL

here you can see how versatile it is.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=355668

Looks very good! With your permission so to say i would like to copy the design

[Constabulary]

Looks very good! With your permission so to say i would like to copy the design

NO WAY - Duuuude - that will cost you a lot of $$$ **Just kidding** sure - when you like it go ahead.

[VanRhodes]

@Catskin, I checked my machine and the timing marks align perfectly. http://instagram.com/p/qAEQIORG-k/%C2'> I still have some issues with skipped stitches, I guess those are somehow related to the current adjustment of the needlebar and the needle to shuttle relation.

It appears to me the information in the available manuals cannot be used to properly set up the needle/hook relation so I will most likely have to go by feel and test my way forward on this. How is yours setup? I cannot adjust my machine so that the eye of the needle is at the lower edge of the hook as they pass each other and it would be interested to know how yours line up.

[catskin]

Sorry guys I haven't been on here for a bit I have been fixing flood damage to my house.

Now, I have what I think is the original 1/2 hp motor (just a regular electric motor), but I have put on a salvaged speed reducer pulley I took of an OLD clothes dryer. And then I had trouble with the old round leather belt slipping so I put on a chain drive from the clutch to the machine( on this machine the clutch is a separate unit) no more slipping belts. I have it slowed way down to about 70 stitches per minute but that suits me fine.

I have sewed everything from harness traces to tow straps to 2ply deer skin and anything else that showed up. I use it less since I bought my Cowboy 4500 but it still has its place.

Van R Good to hear that your timing marks are right I just had that problem and thought it was worth checking since I was struggling with that for a long time because it was so little wiggle but still skipped stitches some times. To set the needle bar down on mine you loosen 2 screws that clamp the square block that the ( I will call it the pitman ) connects to that also connects to that same cam wheel and moves the needle and slide the needle bar up or down so the needle scarf is below the hook the right amount. It really is pretty easy once you get to it.

When I got this machine and another one like it there were several extra parts( when I sold the other one I kept all the extra parts ) including several hooks, the hooks are a bit different from each other so I tried changing them until one worked the best. I think the different hooks set the point of the hook at slightly different distances from the needle to match the different thicknesses of needles. When I got this machine it had needle from as thin as a regular household machine for 69 thread right up to a 300.

[VanRhodes]

Sorry to hear about the flood damage

My needlebar is adjusted the same way yours is and I have been fiddling around with the height a little bit trying to base my work on what little information I could find in the manuals/docs I have. The most relevant information I had for needle bar adjusment is in an Adler 120 manual and it appears that isnt fully translateable to the Adler 20. It says that I should set the needle at the lowest point, add the needle gauge and clamp(7 or 8mm), then remove the clamp and turn the handwheel until the clamp touch the "roof" and comes to a stop. In this position the upper edge of the needle eye should align with the lower edge of the hook. However - I cannot adjust it like that because it will render the needle bar to be adjusted to high meaning the needle clamp will touch the bottom of the arm during it's upward travel, stopping the machine from completing its cycle. So I will have to continue my search for a remedy and see what I can find in this area.

Adjusting the needle to shuttle relation on the Adler 20 is rather easy though, way easier than swapping out the shuttle. There's a large screw fixing the shuttle race to the shaft and under side of the machine, unscrew this partially and you can knock the shuttle race gently with a rubber hammer or similar to move it back and forth to adjust the sideways distance from hook to needle. In wich way are your hooks different ?

The issue I'm having is that the machine sews fairly well in softer types of webbing but when its harder there are occasionally skipped stitches. Its like its not looping the way it should on the underside thus preventing the hook from catching the thread.

[AndreNL]

The issue I'm having is that the machine sews fairly well in softer types of webbing but when its harder there are occasionally skipped stitches. Its like its not looping the way it should on the underside thus preventing the hook from catching the thread.

Perhaps the faults are due to the thread tension? I can imagine that harder webbing creates more resistance on the thread so have you tried to reduce the thread tension a bit just to see what happens?

[VanRhodes]

I dont have the thread tension set very high at all, but I have tried a few different settings and I dont believe this to be the issue as I havent experienced any major differences with higher/lower tension. I am fairly certain its related to a hook/needle issue as it seems the hook doesnt always cycle all the way back in its travel but rather stays on top of the thread that should loop, thus stopping it from looping.

[VanRhodes]

I believe this is what's happening when it's skipping stitches but I'm not sure how to fix it.

[AndreNL]

I believe this is what's happening when it's skipping stitches but I'm not sure how to fix it.

Haven't received your feed dogs yet? ;-)

[VanRhodes]

Not yet, I do hope they will come soon though

[Constabulary]

Looks like your needle bar is set to low. Is the needle all the way up in the needle bar?

Not sure If one has mentioned it already but the loop will be formed in the upwards movement of the needle bar. At the point where the needle bar goes up again there will be a loop that the hook has to catch. The needle bar has to make this small upwards movement. This is the critical point, if the loop will not be formed properly the machine skips stitches. This point is where the hook should catch the loop / meet the needle scarf at approx. 2.5mm above the needle eye - remember the upwards movement of the needle bar is important!!!

[VanRhodes]

@Constabulary: I am fully aware that is the way its supposed to be, but this picture wasnt taken at that point in the needle cycle either. This is just before the needle begins its upwards motion again and the needle bar is as high as I can physicly set it on this machine. Most of the time its's working as it's supposed to do but then again, there are some missed stitches so I will have to fine tune it in some way that doesnt involve moving the needle bar further up.

[Constabulary]

okay - one more thing I "could" image is that the thread take up lever pulls the thread at the wrong moment.You know what I mean? When it pulls the thread up at the moment the loop should be formed there will be no loop or a too small loop. But thats just an Idea, not sure if it possible...

[VanRhodes]

The thread take up lever is controlled by a cam that is pinned to the drive shaft, same goes for the shuttle and its drive shaft so I doubt that I would be able to affect the timing on any of those components. I will have to study the parts diagram again and see though. Had I been able to affect the position of the shuttle like you would on a normal sewing machine it would have been a rather easy fix, but all of this is locked in position with pins. Will have to test other options.

[sandyt]

VanRhodes,

Have you solved this issue? My longbed Adler 20 has the same issue. After a good cleaning it went better. But sometimes the hook doesn't 'fall' back past the needle and sits still exactly in front of the needle resulting in a missed stitch. 

Not working on the machine right now, but just curious how/if you handled it.

Sandy.

[VanRhodes]

To be honest with you Sandyt, I solved it by reshaping the hook. I shortened it a couple of millimeters with a dremel and it's now working perfectly. I figured I could give it a shot since I got an extra hook with the machine. 

[sandyt]

Haha, why not indeed. Too bad I don't have a spare hook. If I can't fix (re-time) my machine, I will try the same probably. 

It's strange though. All the shafts are pinned. The timing can't be off. Maybe the previous owners placed the wrong hook in it? I don't know. Hope I have time soon, so I can play with the Adler

Thanks.

Sandy.

[VanRhodes]

That might be the case for my machine since its using SIMANCO parts for the shuttle, hook and driver. This would explain why it might be a little bit off in timing. None the less, shortening and reshaping the hook worked like a charm so give it a shot. 

[Yetibelle]

Here are the guides I found.  Not sure if you have these already.  I am going to restore my 20-2 in a month or so, but its made with Singer 7 parts.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8SsIFb6Bqz7NmJxM0psTW9rbXM/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8SsIFb6Bqz7SXAwNHNBX0lZOHM/view?usp=sharing

 

 

 

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

I've got two of these machines, complete.  In case anyone cares.