Adler 20-2, Anyone Here Using It?

[AndreNL]

@ AndreNL

here you can see how versatile it is.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=355668

@ AndreNL

here you can see how versatile it is.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=355668

Looks very good! With your permission so to say i would like to copy the design

[Constabulary]

Looks very good! With your permission so to say i would like to copy the design

NO WAY - Duuuude - that will cost you a lot of $$$ **Just kidding** sure - when you like it go ahead.

[VanRhodes]

@Catskin, I checked my machine and the timing marks align perfectly. http://instagram.com/p/qAEQIORG-k/%C2'> I still have some issues with skipped stitches, I guess those are somehow related to the current adjustment of the needlebar and the needle to shuttle relation.

It appears to me the information in the available manuals cannot be used to properly set up the needle/hook relation so I will most likely have to go by feel and test my way forward on this. How is yours setup? I cannot adjust my machine so that the eye of the needle is at the lower edge of the hook as they pass each other and it would be interested to know how yours line up.

[catskin]

Sorry guys I haven't been on here for a bit I have been fixing flood damage to my house.

Now, I have what I think is the original 1/2 hp motor (just a regular electric motor), but I have put on a salvaged speed reducer pulley I took of an OLD clothes dryer. And then I had trouble with the old round leather belt slipping so I put on a chain drive from the clutch to the machine( on this machine the clutch is a separate unit) no more slipping belts. I have it slowed way down to about 70 stitches per minute but that suits me fine.

I have sewed everything from harness traces to tow straps to 2ply deer skin and anything else that showed up. I use it less since I bought my Cowboy 4500 but it still has its place.

Van R Good to hear that your timing marks are right I just had that problem and thought it was worth checking since I was struggling with that for a long time because it was so little wiggle but still skipped stitches some times. To set the needle bar down on mine you loosen 2 screws that clamp the square block that the ( I will call it the pitman ) connects to that also connects to that same cam wheel and moves the needle and slide the needle bar up or down so the needle scarf is below the hook the right amount. It really is pretty easy once you get to it.

When I got this machine and another one like it there were several extra parts( when I sold the other one I kept all the extra parts ) including several hooks, the hooks are a bit different from each other so I tried changing them until one worked the best. I think the different hooks set the point of the hook at slightly different distances from the needle to match the different thicknesses of needles. When I got this machine it had needle from as thin as a regular household machine for 69 thread right up to a 300.

[VanRhodes]

Sorry to hear about the flood damage

My needlebar is adjusted the same way yours is and I have been fiddling around with the height a little bit trying to base my work on what little information I could find in the manuals/docs I have. The most relevant information I had for needle bar adjusment is in an Adler 120 manual and it appears that isnt fully translateable to the Adler 20. It says that I should set the needle at the lowest point, add the needle gauge and clamp(7 or 8mm), then remove the clamp and turn the handwheel until the clamp touch the "roof" and comes to a stop. In this position the upper edge of the needle eye should align with the lower edge of the hook. However - I cannot adjust it like that because it will render the needle bar to be adjusted to high meaning the needle clamp will touch the bottom of the arm during it's upward travel, stopping the machine from completing its cycle. So I will have to continue my search for a remedy and see what I can find in this area.

Adjusting the needle to shuttle relation on the Adler 20 is rather easy though, way easier than swapping out the shuttle. There's a large screw fixing the shuttle race to the shaft and under side of the machine, unscrew this partially and you can knock the shuttle race gently with a rubber hammer or similar to move it back and forth to adjust the sideways distance from hook to needle. In wich way are your hooks different ?

The issue I'm having is that the machine sews fairly well in softer types of webbing but when its harder there are occasionally skipped stitches. Its like its not looping the way it should on the underside thus preventing the hook from catching the thread.

[AndreNL]

The issue I'm having is that the machine sews fairly well in softer types of webbing but when its harder there are occasionally skipped stitches. Its like its not looping the way it should on the underside thus preventing the hook from catching the thread.

Perhaps the faults are due to the thread tension? I can imagine that harder webbing creates more resistance on the thread so have you tried to reduce the thread tension a bit just to see what happens?

[VanRhodes]

I dont have the thread tension set very high at all, but I have tried a few different settings and I dont believe this to be the issue as I havent experienced any major differences with higher/lower tension. I am fairly certain its related to a hook/needle issue as it seems the hook doesnt always cycle all the way back in its travel but rather stays on top of the thread that should loop, thus stopping it from looping.

[VanRhodes]

I believe this is what's happening when it's skipping stitches but I'm not sure how to fix it.

[AndreNL]

I believe this is what's happening when it's skipping stitches but I'm not sure how to fix it.

Haven't received your feed dogs yet? ;-)

[VanRhodes]

Not yet, I do hope they will come soon though