Vintage Singer Questions

[Hi Im Joe]

Jo the first one is a 15-91 and will sew leather. I've done guitar straps etc on this machine and it's a favorite among garment people for light leather sewing. It has a potted or gear driven motor and no belt so no belt to slip, etc. It will use up to #69 thread. And pretty much sew anything you can stuff under the foot. It is a beast though, not in the sense of a 'real' leather machine is in size but in speed. For that reason there's definitely a learning curve on using it. But I sewed suede etc easily on mine, prolly 4-5 oz. On my straps it was harder with the heavier thread but it will sew them. It makes a nice stand in machine while you save for a walking foot machine with a speed reducer, etc. And that's a good price. Best thing to do is take something you want to sew with you, try the machine out and see what you think. Cheryl

Thanks Cheryl! I appreciate the input. Yeah my budget is non-existent at this point so I'm going to have to try to find some type of "stand-in" before I even think about dropping the coin on a "real" machine.

Another way to determine if a sewing machine is built for home/domestic use only is the needle. Home sewing needles almost always have a flat side to help align them properly in the needle bar. Some home machines thread left to right. Some thread right to left. And, some even thread front to back. The flat in the needle bar makes sure you align the needle correctly.

Industrial sewing machines normally use completely round shank needles.

Another give-away is the motor. Home machines have a tiny motor, no stronger than 1 or 1.5 amps (150 watts), with a small belt to the flywheel, or possibly built into the body. While there are a few industrial sewing machines with internal motors, or possibly user-added bolt on the back motors, most have a huge motor under an industrial table, mounted on a steel frame. Older industrial machines usually have clutch motors, rated at between 1/4 and 3/4 horsepower. The average 1/2 horse power clutch motor draws about 500 watts of power under load.

Newer machine tend to come with easier to control servo motors, which also are very powerful.

Wiz, man you are awesome! One of the most helpful members of this forum. I never expected this much of a response so quickly! Thank you again.

[Hi Im Joe]

One more question for you experts. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me! This has made my life much easier and saved me at on of time.

What about this machine?

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/for/4540685811.html

[Wishful]

I have one similar (maybe the same) and it is a good machine. That is a great price for that but you will do best if you can swap the motor for a servo motor. Parts are a bit more expensive than singers but seem to be available still if you need something. Take something you plan to sew with you to test.

[Constabulary]

BUY IT - BUY IT - BUY IT - if it is in functional condition. $125 is a bargain I´d say!

This is pretty much a clone of an Adler 67 walking foot / compound feed sewing machine (maybe it is even made by Adler and then re-labeled by Chandler)

Looks as if it has a piping foot but they are easy to change - maybe you have to update to a servo motor but I really would buy this machine if it is still available.

[Hi Im Joe]

My wife may kill me...but I'll try to see if she will let me. I have a line on a Singer 15-91 for 25 dollars in good working condition. She already gave me a hard time about that!

We are on a tight budget....single income family. But it seems like this is worth it.

[Hi Im Joe]

BUY IT - BUY IT - BUY IT - if it is in functional condition. $125 is a bargain I´d say!

This is pretty much a clone of an Adler 67 walking foot / compound feed sewing machine (maybe it is even made by Adler and then re-labeled by Chandler)

Looks as if it has a piping foot but they are easy to change - maybe you have to update to a servo motor but I really would buy this machine if it is still available.

Guy said he'll do 100. Do you know how much and where I could find a walking foot?

[Wizcrafts]

My wife may kill me...but I'll try to see if she will let me. I have a line on a Singer 15-91 for 25 dollars in good working condition. She already gave me a hard time about that!

We are on a tight budget....single income family. But it seems like this is worth it.

Since this is your final answer, let me give you some advice for sewing leather on a 15-91.

First, make sure the machine turns freely and works when plugged in and the foot pedal is depressed. Some of these pedals lose slow speed range from use. Pedals are replaceable. If smoke comes out of the motor pod, or wiring, discard it and look for something else.

Assuming it doesn't catch fire, get sewing machine oil at Wally World or Joann Fabrics and place a few drops into every hole that is marked "Oil," as well as underneath on various crank shafts, which have tiny oil holes. While you are at the above stores, buy a few packs of #110 (US #18) leather point needles. Neither of these chain stores stocks bonded nylon thread. So, order bonded thread online in the colors you want to use, in size 69 (aka, T70).

You may need to change the presser foot to a Teflon foot to allow leather belts to advance without dragging down the stitch length. These feet are not indigenous to the 15-91 and may require a conversion adapter. A so-called walking foot attachment helps feed sticky leather, at the expense of almost 1/8 inch less clearance under the foot.

Insert a new leather point needle, aligning the flat side into the cutout inside the needle bar. If you get a manual with it, thread the machine as shown in the book. Otherwise, I have a web page with information about the Singer 15-91 and download links for user and adjuster manuals.

You will need to adjust the pressure on the foot to prevent it from lifting with the ascending needle. Lifting leather = skipped stitches and bent or broken needles. I found that the pressure screw needed a lot of pressure to hold down 1/8" of veg-tan finished belt leather. Bridle leather is softer and less likely to bind the needle from friction.

Start by hand-wheeling, to avoid blowing up the motor or its drive gear. Sew slowly, using a screw on edge guide, commonly available wherever sewing accessories are sold. These guides use two thumb screws that screw into the machine bed, on the right side of the needle.

Good luck

[Hi Im Joe]

So I'm now the new owner of a chandler/adler 67...for 100 bucks. I have a feeling I'm going to have a lot more questions.

[Wizcrafts]

Doh! I just read your post that you are getting a real walking foot machine after all. Please disregard my previous details about the 15-91.

[Hi Im Joe]

Since this is your final answer, let me give you some advice for sewing leather on a 15-91.

First, make sure the machine turns freely and works when plugged in and the foot pedal is depressed. Some of these pedals lose slow speed range from use. Pedals are replaceable. If smoke comes out of the motor pod, or wiring, discard it and look for something else.

Assuming it doesn't catch fire, get sewing machine oil at Wally World or Joann Fabrics and place a few drops into every hole that is marked "Oil," as well as underneath on various crank shafts, which have tiny oil holes. While you are at the above stores, buy a few packs of #110 (US #18) leather point needles. Neither of these chain stores stocks bonded nylon thread. So, order bonded thread online in the colors you want to use, in size 69 (aka, T70).

You may need to change the presser foot to a Teflon foot to allow leather belts to advance without dragging down the stitch length. These feet are not indigenous to the 15-91 and may require a conversion adapter. A so-called walking foot attachment helps feed sticky leather, at the expense of almost 1/8 inch less clearance under the foot.

Insert a new leather point needle, aligning the flat side into the cutout inside the needle bar. If you get a manual with it, thread the machine as shown in the book. Otherwise, I have a web page with information about the Singer 15-91 and download links for user and adjuster manuals.

You will need to adjust the pressure on the foot to prevent it from lifting with the ascending needle. Lifting leather = skipped stitches and bent or broken needles. I found that the pressure screw needed a lot of pressure to hold down 1/8" of veg-tan finished belt leather. Bridle leather is softer and less likely to bind the needle from friction.

Start by hand-wheeling, to avoid blowing up the motor or its drive gear. Sew slowly, using a screw on edge guide, commonly available wherever sewing accessories are sold. These guides use two thumb screws that screw into the machine bed, on the right side of the needle.

Good luck

Thanks Wiz...but somehow the wife did not stab me with a rusty spoon for asking to spend 100 dollars but also LET ME ACTUALLY BUY THE CHANDLER. I'm pretty excited if you couldn't tell.