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Posted

I usually finish my edges by heating up bees wax and applying, but I am getting tired of having to heat it up. Because I use 2-3 oz leather for everything I do, I needed something softer so I mixed with paraffin. This 50/50 mix works well, but is still not soft enough. I am thinking of adding neatsfoot oil or something to soften it up further. Would this work? Anyone have a tried and true ratio? Would EV olive oil work? I may try with olive oil since I already have it at home...

Thanks

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Posted

I've heard of the 50/50 mix but not adding oil. You don't need to use wax on the edges, anything wet will work. You could use saddle soap which is softer or even water. The burnishing heats it up and tightens the fibers so you get a nice edge. I just recently bought some Quik Slik from Sheridan Leather because only they sell it and I'll be using it today on some 3-4 oz cc holders I made if you want me to tell you how it works. Cheryl

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Posted (edited)

Cheryl - I'd appreciate that, let me know how it works!

Joe- I use saddle soap first also

edit: I also want to add part of the reason I like to use the wax is because I don't use glue and it holds the edge together nicely

Edited by whipstitchwallets
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Posted (edited)

This is my first attempt at one of these so I know my sewing needs some help :) I need a smaller needle and thread but this is the smallest I have for my machine. Anyway I wanted you to see the edge primarily. It's a little blurry but you can still see the shine on the edge. All I did was put the quik slik on with a q-tip and use some denim to slick it. It's very smooth all the way around, even the top which I would have had to work pretty hard on if I'd used my usual saddle soap. And if you don't like this look be sure to check out hidepounder's tutorial on edges in 'how do I do that.' I'm sure you can get more answers in there. Cheryl

Oh meant to tell you that you can dye the edge after the quik slik.

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Edited by DoubleC
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Posted
  On 7/11/2014 at 7:12 PM, Hi Im Joe said:

Out of curiosity...why no glue?

Mostly because I like to offer refurbs for my customers; they can send it back and I'll take it apart and give it the works. I do this on my own wallet every 1-2 years. Also, I find it takes too much time to do it neatly without offering much added benefit :dunno:

Cheryl - thanks for taking the time to do that!

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Posted (edited)

Not sure if this helps, what you do and I do (sheath making) is quite different, but here it is anyway...

I use a mix of beeswax melted in a double boiler and mixed with coconut oil. The stuff is becoming more popular and can now be found at walmart (inexpensive) and target (organic). It's really quite interesting stuff. It's a solid but melts at a very low temperature, maybe 80° or so.

I aim for a ratio that yields a mix that melts under reasonable friction, but stays stable under most conditions. I don't believe coconut oil goes rancid either, in fact many people use it on their baby's rashes. I recommend picking up a jar. If you decide not to use it in your work, you'll no doubt find another use for it. Like cooking.

Oh, lastly,I use this, not just on the edges, but to add weather resistance to my work. Good stuff.

Bad example, but it's what I got at the moment.

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Edited by StrigaMort

Proud purveyor OMEGA Leather

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Posted

I use a blend of soy wax and beeswax. Soy wax is available at a number of different meting points, lower than either bees wax or paraffin. I can't go too low because my products can get quite warm drying in the sun (145F) here in Arizona so I use a blend and works well. You can add neatsfoot or olive oil to the wax as well.

Cya!

Bob

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