Molded Leather Bowls

[74inchshovel]

This is my first post on this site with the exception of my introduction. What I like to do the most in leatherwork is wet molding. Molds are made on a wood lathe, bowls are 2 to 3 thicknesses of leather. The layers are glued wet, together with titebond (a wood glue) and left to dry. A lot of clamping is used. Still have not come up with a good way to trim it round when it's dry. The thickness at this point is 1/4 to 3/8" and because of the plywood effect of the leather and glue, is very tough to cut by hand. Still have a lot to learn, finishing being one of my biggest weaknesses.

[rscow]

Those are very handsome bowls! And your braiding is really really nice. Super work.

[MikeG]

Very nice - I'm surprised how nice the finish looks. I would have thought the Titebond on wet leather would bleed through. From the pictures I see absolutely nothing wrong with the finishing. The dark braiding really sets these bowls off.

Thanks for showing!

[MonicaJacobson]

Yes, the bowls are cool, and the braiding is awesome. Interesting project!

[Frederiek]

That's great, very original! Maybe trim it round by putting it in the lathe? Maybe still in the mould?

[luxefaire]

These are very interesting and nice. I have been hired to do custom head pieces in the past, armor-like, for paintball people, this gives me good ideas, thanks very much....b

Edited August 8, 2014 by luxefaire

[Rohn]

Very interesting project. Those look great. You said that finishing was one of your weaknesses. What finish did you use? Also what weight are your leathers before glue up? Looks like something I'd like to try.

[Feraud]

A very well done unique item. The dark stitching looks great with the lighter color bowl.

[MattTheHat]

Very cool! For trimming, I'd make some leather covered forms and at least try doing it on the lathe. Of course, I'm using a metal lathe with a 3-jaw chuck which you might not have if you're using a wood lathe. Seems like with a fairly closely fitting form in the headstock and another in the tailstock, maybe with some of those no-slip bench pads in betwixt, you could apply enough pressure with the tailstock to accomplish the trimming as long as you use a very sharp parting tool and very light pressure.

Whatever the case, whatever you're already doing looks very, very nice!

-Matt

[BubbaJon]

I'd use something like a potters wheel. Make a rigid arm with a blade on the end andadjust it in slowly to apply the cut. Sorta like a lathe...

[74inchshovel]

Thanks for the kind words all. My problems with finishing are in the application, what do you use for applying the dyes that Tandy sells? I have tried both oil and alcohol based, it always looks streaked or blotchy unless I put so much on the leather is just soaked. Airbrush? I misspoke a little bit, the top and bottom are molded together, clamped, and dried to the point of being very slightly pliable, then taken apart, glued, clamped, and final dried. Rohn- the weights are in the 8 ounce range, unless I go with 3 layers, then maybe 4-5 ounce. The beauty of 3 layers is it does not matter what goes in the middle, a good use for pieces otherwise not usable, and 3 layers comes out very ridged and durable. So yes, I can definitely see it for paintball armor. Some great suggestions for trimming, food for thought. If any one is going to try this, part of my learning curve was finding out that when you tighten a C clamp, it sheds very fine pieces of metal sometimes. It's amazing how much a tiny piece of steel will stain wet leather. I now oil the threads. Thanks again!

[Tinkerton]

Depending how sturdy the leather is, maybe a belt sander would work for trimming. Mark out on the leather where you want the final edge to be(perhaps with a pen or with masking tape) and sand down to it.

[builderofstuff]

Very very cool. I would never have thought of making bowls from leather.

Chris