Slim Tote

[MonicaJacobson]

So, my dad mentioned he wanted something that wasn't a briefcase, but more like a tote. He didn't want a flap, and he didn't want something too big, just a bag with handles to carry papers. A lot of people have been making totes, so I thought I'd give it a try. I don't really like the unfinished edges at the top of most totes, so I tried to remedy the situation by putting an extra strip at the top. I like the look of the seams on the outside, and I like that I could get a finished top edge, but I don't particularly like the corners. Any suggestions would be welcome!

[billybopp]

It looks quite nice!

For the top corners you might skive the strip and front/side down in the corners so that they are closer to thickness of a single piece combined.

Bound edges would look nice too, but that would drastically change the look of the bag.

Bill

[MonicaJacobson]

Thank you, BillyB- I think you're right about the skiving. Thanks for the suggestion!

[DavidL]

Very nice looking bag.

You could thin down the edges for the gusset part and sew it flesh side to flesh side with piping in the middle. When the piping is 3-5cm away from the top edge sandwich the piping in between the two pieces so it no longer shows and stitch it up like same way, just like the first thumbnail.

Alternatively, you can sew it up like the second thumbnail with "bias tape" except using leather instead of fabric. Pretty much the exact opposite of the tote you have where the edges turn in instead of out on your pictures.

The thinner the edges of the gusset the less bulky it will look.

Edited August 14, 2014 by DavidL

[MonicaJacobson]

Thank you for the detailed advice, David. Flesh side to flesh side with piping on the inside? That would leave two visible edges with piping in between? I don't think I've ever seen that done. I've never tried piping, but I've been meaning to learn how to do it. It certainly looks great.

The bias tape is a good idea. I feel like it would work best on 1-2 oz, while my leather is 3-4 oz. However, I could be wrong, and it does give it a nice, clean look. I'll save the thumbs for future reference.

[rosiart]

Lovely tote, Monica. I'll bet your dad is really pleased.

I'm not sure it would do what you want, but in addition to some skiving, you could just slightly round the edges where they come together at the corners. I think I saw it on one of Nigel's videos and I have found in my own stuff, it makes the edge look more polished. Bumping the corner off seems a little more pleasing to my eye than when I leave things squared off. Just my 2 cents, you can take it for what it's worth 'cause it is decidely a personal preference thing....

[MonicaJacobson]

Rosie, that is an excellent idea. I think I'm going to skive the corners, resew them, and round them as you suggest. That's a great idea. In fact, I really need to go back and watch more of Nigel's videos. I think I've only watched one or two. Thanks!

[WScott]

Nice little bag indeed good construction and stitch details

It isn't quite a Murse, how about calling it a Mote

[MonicaJacobson]

Ha! Thanks WScott - in retrospect, if one were to make a perfectly masculine tote, ore mote, one should use veg tanned, and make two slender briefcase-like handles in the middle that attach to the sides with metal hardware. In which case, maybe it would be called a Totecase, or Tiefcase. Hmm... definitely lacks the ring.

[thefanninator]

Very nice. What did you use inside the handles?

[MonicaJacobson]

Thank you! I used another thin strip of the same leather. Honestly, I think it was too wide, and I think i made the straps themselves too wide as well. I'm not really sure what people usually use. Maybe two strips of leather glued together and then rounded over? I'm not sure. I also made the inside strips a little short, and didn't extend the stitching as far towards the bag as I suspect I should have.

[MonicaJacobson]

Well, I took out a bunch of seams (I cheated and didn't completely unsew it), skived it down and slightly rounded the edges (per above advice), and it looks about as good as this particular one is going to look, probably, unless I buy the heat burnisher Olivier told me to buy. Thanks for all the help!

Ha, now I'm thinking it's too feminine looking. Might try again with the whole masculine thing.

[rosiart]

I think it looks great!

[billybopp]

It looks like skiving did the trick on the corners. The edges don't look bad either. If you wanted to finish them a little more thoroughly, you could experiment with edge coats. Fiebings makes a clear edge coat to which you can add dyes to get just the color that you want. Others have added dye to Tan Kote, I believe with good results. Those may be worth a try, although I have not tried them. I'd certainly experiment on a scrap piece first, tho.

Bill

[MonicaJacobson]

Thank you, Rosie, and Bill.

Bill, I would like to get my chrome tanned edges better, and I am planning to start dying them a slightly darker color so they don't draw so much attention to themselves. Of course, you have to do that before you do Gum Trag, and I keep forgetting until I'm in the middle. Someone else on the forum mentioned Allen Edmonds heel and sole edge dressing for chrome tanned edges, and I think I'm going to give it a try.

I've been leary of edge coats like Tan Kote because I understood that it could peel off. If that's not the case, I might try that, too.

[thefanninator]

Monica,

I just bought some Tandy Professional Edge Paint. It's actually made by Fenice in Italy. If you've seen any of hunio's work on here it's the same kind he uses.

I'm using it on a tote made from chrome tanned Horween. I'll post up my results later.

[thefanninator]

I have to say I'm very pleased with my results so far with the Fenice edge paint. Much better than Angelus in my opinion.

I'm applying it with a dauber with the dauber cut off, so just the wire. I'm applying it to Horween Orion leather.

I did 2 coats. Then I tried melting it with a soldering iron; didn't work. I sanded and applied another coat.

Try it on your chrome tanned tote!

The top piece has paint and the bottom piece is raw.

Edited August 16, 2014 by thefanninator

[MonicaJacobson]

That does look extremely nice. Now, I think your Horween leather is waaaaay better than my (dare I say) stoned oil tandy stuff. At least, the back side is much cleaner, as you shall see.

So, I was talking to my woodworker husband last night, and he recommended that before I buy something, I should try enduro-var. He had it, and he claims it's probably exactly the same as "Edge Kote".

I tried two kinds of leather, one thick, one thin:

On that first one, I sanded the piece on the right, put enduro-var, and then polished it. It does darken it, and it is shiny, but it also leaves light crackles, like lacquer. The left piece is the raw leather.

Second one:

On the left is the piece I sanded first, then put enduro-var on. The middle piece I didn't sand first, but sanded after I sealed it with enduro-var. That one seems to have worked the best. The right piece is just with gum trag.

Then I experimented with the tote...

The enduro-var is on the left, gum trag on the right. The gum trag is lighter, and matte, but looks more cohesive. The enduro-var is harder, darker, and shinier, but has a few light, lacquerey notes.

the top is enduro-var, and the bottom gum trag.

So I don't know. I think I'm going to try the same experiment with plain, good quality, lacquer. I can't decide if it's the finish that's the problem, or just poorer quality leather.

Ha ha, yes, I know I'm just trying to avoid buying Edge Paint - I'd buy it in a second if they had it at Springfield, as I have stuff to order there, but I'm not very excited about making a special trip to Tandy at the moment. I'll probably cave.

[thefanninator]

Mine so far. Ready for the handles to be stitched on.

Horween Orion leather, 9 spi. I used the Light Brown Tandy Pro Edge Paint (Fenice from Italy). Inside the handles I used some cord from Joann's.

Only thing I don't like are the seams inside. They are a little obnoxious. I guess some skiving could help.

Edited August 19, 2014 by thefanninator

[MonicaJacobson]

That looks great, and the edge looks ridiculously great. Some skiving might help, but people don't seem to worry about those seams much when they're on the inside. Someone suggested binding the inside seam earlier on in this thread, and I've seen them with the string out and over the top of the seam, which makes it look more secure, although I'm not really convinced it actually helps. I'll be interested to see how it looks when you're done!

I'm going to try an inside out bag like this in the next month:

I like it because it looks like an old US Army saddlebag.

[MonicaJacobson]

Maybe if you round over the seam edge on the inside just a tad it would be more innocuous?

Edited August 19, 2014 by MonicaJacobson

[thefanninator]

Happy to be finished. Looking forward to learning how to make the next one better.

Stitching on the handles was challenging. Maybe I should have stitched them on first but I think that would have made it difficult to turn right side out.

Edited August 21, 2014 by thefanninator

[MonicaJacobson]

It turned out really nice! I'm going to have to get myself some better leather. Yeah, attaching things after they're sewn together is a serious pain. I hope you're planning on posting it in a more general place - I doubt many people would see it here.

The edges on the handles look great!

[thefanninator]

Thanks Monica! Yeah, I'll post it on it's own thread too.

[Wild Bill46]

Monica, my first glance at your dads bag was a great vision. and too, I admit and agree the modifications look great too !

No matter if you changed it for him or not , Im sure it will suit him, and serve him well for some time to come.

And the stitching on the outside, stands tall by itself, A good look !

Really though in, IMHO, it looks great either way !.

Now your Sister and Dad both, have Monica bags, I still wanta make one, when I can slow up a bit ! Great work !