Edge Heat Burnishing?

[DavidL]

Recently I have tried to do some heat edge burnishing w/ a soldering iron that gets really hot. I first sand and then apply the soldering iron. Is the edge paint (acrylic?) the missing piece to give the edge a smooth plastic feel.

Im asking because without the edge paint Id think it would be completely smooth (but not plastic feeling) but is a bit uneven and the two pieces aren't merged seamlessly . Is this what is expected without edge paint and will the edge paint fix the unevenness and blend in smoothly?

[Dwight]

Never heard of such a thing, . . . but then again, . . . only been messing with leather for some 40 years.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Red Cent]

Interesting. Do you simply touch the hot iron to the dry leather? Is there a "painting" stroke involved? I can't imaging getting a glass smooth edge burnish with a soldering iron.

I believe I have read somewhere that a device was used to edge a piece of leather but it was ran through the device in a controlled manner to ensure a smooth surface.

"Is the edge paint (acrylic?) the missing piece to give the edge a smooth plastic feel?"

In my experience, no.

" .......two pieces aren't merged seamlessly."

How about telling us what you are making and, maybe, showing us an example. Difficult to address the questions without some more information.

[DavidL]

If I haven't seen it done before I would say the same thing, it seems impossible. But heres a video of a worker making a bag w/ a expensive heat tool.

at the 3:40 mark.

2:09

Im not too sure if the edge paint is acrylic or dye or some other thing entirely and how it will hold up w/ the iron and how to produce that smooth edge.

Also the problem may lie in the fact that I wasn't as aggressive with the sanding because I believe the rough bits from sanding will not help get a smooth finish.

My steps for the next piece.

glue pieces together

compress tightly

sand with high grit paper

use regular dye on edges

use a soldering iron on the edges in a stroke movement

touch up dye

add paraffin or beeswax and go over with the iron.

Anyone had success or see anything missing or wrong about the steps?

[thefanninator]

I too have been trying to emulate the results you get from the French tool, the Fileteuse Manuelle.

Not quite sure what they use with the Fileteuse but I think there may be some wax or a combination of wax/paint involved.

http://mando.fr/fr/17-fileteuse-manuelle

For me the soldering iron gets too hot. With a temperature control it may work quite well; especially for creasing.

I tried melting Angelus edge paint; doesn't work.

Today I purchased Fenice edge paint (Tandy Pro Edge Paint) and I'm very happy with the results so far. I applied it with a dauber with the dauber cut off. No sanding or melting needed. Sanding may be needed on other projects.

Edited August 17, 2014 by thefanninator

[thefanninator]

There's an entire thread devoted to the tool.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38750

So far the only edge paints I've read about that come close to Hermes is: Fenice, Stahl and Beraud.

[DavidL]

Thanks il give it a look.

[CustomDoug]

"..Not quite sure what they use with the Fileteuse but I think there may be some wax or a combination of wax/paint involved..."

Regarding the "wax/paint" thing.. after reading this thread (and another thread on the same subject) I still think that there must be a wax/paint mixture or a colored wax that can be used. In the other thread, our forum member Art (who's usually a really good source for information) mentioned that the product used was 'Yankee Wax'. His comment got completely glossed over and know one else mentioned yankee wax again. FYI, it's been used in the shoe making craft for years and years and looking at it, it seems to be just the ticket when used with a Fileteuse of some sort. Art suggested a basic "iron" heated with a flame like the shoe makers use it - but this thread is about the electric fileteuse and soldering irons. I think it might be worth a try (but I don't have my Fileteuse yet). Thoughts? Here's a look at this colored wax:

http://www.frankfordleather.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=07A99E346C4F424FB75AD246A3C7693A

Doug C

Edited September 19, 2014 by CustomDoug

[thefanninator]

I've come across & read about the Yankee wax too. I'm pretty happy with my edges right now with the Fenice edge paint, sanding and a coat of paraffin wax and burnishing. I still need to try melting it on some scraps.

When the time comes to step up it will be the fileteuse and Beraud edge paint. I think it has the wax in it.

Edited September 19, 2014 by thefanninator

[Andrew Chee]

I've been trying this technique out lately. In general I prefer Veg Tan leather and traditional burnishing but I've been trying to make some watch straps using alligator skin and traditional burnishing just doesn't work on that type of stuff. I have some Italian edge paint from Cambell Randall as well as some edge paint from Tandy. They are pretty similar stuff. I believe that this type of paint is latex based.

So far, what I've been doing is putting on a somewhat heavy layer of paint, letting it dry completely, then using an iron on it. The Iron I have is the one that Campbell Randall makes. I set it so it's about 160-180 degrees farenheit (I use an infrared thremometer to check). What I notice is that the iron kinda melts and smooths out the paint a little bit. Too much heat and it seems to melt the paint right off so that's not good. After I use the heater, I sand with high grit sand paper (320-400 grit). It actually seems to sand off quite a bit of the paint as well but it smooths it out even more. I repeat this process one or two more times until I get an edge that I feel is smooth. Then I sand that down and I apply a final color using regular leather dye over the painted edge. Then I finish with paraffin wax on a felt wheel.

The results so far is decent. I wouldn't say they were great. The fact is that every time I put a new layer of paint on, it doesn't go on completely smoothly. When I use the heating tool, it smooths out the paint but not in a uniform way. To be honest, I don't completely understand the purpose of using the heating tool. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I don't get as nice and uniform an edge as I can get with traditional burnishing. The edge is pretty decent though but not perfect.

Anyways, if anyone has mastered this tool, please share.

Andrew

[silverwingit]

From what I can tell, the European makers use Italian Fenice leather edge paint in conjunction with the Fileteuse heated iron to finish their chrometan edges. The Fenice paint can also be used without an iron and is now available from Tandy Leather as this video shows.

I'm currently looking for a more affordable adjustable soldering or woodburning iron with different tips in place of the Fileteuse. Maybe something as inexpensive as this.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41115&p=31041

Or even one of these with various available handpieces.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=31042&cat=1,41115,45497&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=41116&cat=1,41115,45497&ap=1

If someone is further along with this than me, I too would appreciate knowing about it.

Thanks,

Michelle

Edited September 20, 2014 by silverwingit

[thefanninator]

I've got a soldering iron that looks exactly like the Lee Valley wood burning pen with all the different tips. I bought it at Lowes for about $20. It gets too hot.

Looks like Andrew may have the temp closer to correct 160 - 180...

[DavidL]

I would go with a hakko soldering iron. Somewhere around 70 dollars for a heat adjustable iron that can be set to whatever degree, important for soldering because too hot or too cold and it won't work correctly. 90 dollars for the upgraded hakko comes with a little station that you can set to the exact degree.

For 30 bucks it will be hard to find an iron that is reliable as the hakko.

[billybopp]

Be aware that temperature controlled soldering irons have a thermistor/thermocouple in the tip to sense temperature and send it back to the power unit. Hence, you are limited to the tips made for that iron, which are pretty small. A proper fileteuse edger has a pretty broad surface.

Not to say that it will not work, but it's not exactly the same thing.

Bill

[Andrew Chee]

I'd be careful about a soldering iron. Their temps are probably too hot unless you can find one with adjustable temp. Temps hot enough to solder are probably too hot for leatherwork.

Andrew

[thefanninator]

Here's a simple card wallet with Fenice edge paint from Tandy on the edges.

Several coats and some fine sanding and paraffin wax. I use a scratch awl and drop the paint on the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end.

3rd one is a little too close and out of focus.

Edited September 20, 2014 by thefanninator

[greekgod]

Here's a simple card wallet with Fenice edge paint from Tandy on the edges.

Several coats and some fine sanding and paraffin wax. I use a scratch awl and drop the paint on the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end.

3rd one is a little too close and out of focus.

Thats really really good mate.. thanks so much for putting up the pictures.. If I may ask could you give a point to point run down how to get this finish PLEASEEEEEEEE?? I am not a very intelligent guy so I get it only if its dumb proof

[thefanninator]

Make sure your edges are lined up as near perfect as you can or trim the edges after you glue and stitch.

Sand the edges with 220 grit, 300, then 400.

Apply a coat of paint. I use a scratch awl and let the paint drip onto the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end, while dripping more paint on. Makes a very smooth coat. Be careful to not add too much paint or let it run down the sides. Let dry about an hour.

Apply 2nd coat and let dry.

If it's getting thick give it a light sanding with 300 grit.

Apply 3rd coat. Let dry.

Apply as many coats as you need to get rid of the line down the middle where the two leathers meet. Let dry.

I haven't tried yet but 1000 grit sandpaper may look great and help get rid of any dried bubbles etc...

Last I take a piece of canvas and rub paraffin wax all over one side and burnish the edge with it.

Edited September 21, 2014 by thefanninator

[greekgod]

.

Edited September 21, 2014 by greekgod

[greekgod]

Make sure your edges are lined up as near perfect as you can or trim the edges after you glue and stitch.

Sand the edges with 220 grit, 300, then 400.

Apply a coat of paint. I use a scratch awl and let the paint drip onto the edge, tilt it and let it run down the edge to the other end, while dripping more paint on. Makes a very smooth coat. Be careful to not add too much paint or let it run down the sides. Let dry about an hour.

Apply 2nd coat and let dry.

If it's getting thick give it a light sanding with 300 grit.

Apply 3rd coat. Let dry.

Apply as many coats as you need to get rid of the line down the middle where the two leathers meet. Let dry.

I haven't tried yet but 1000 grit sandpaper may look great and help get rid of any dried bubbles etc...

Last I take a piece of canvas and rub paraffin wax all over one side and burnish the edge with it.

Cool thanks so much for that!!!

I didn't quiet understand the last part. So after the 3 times coats has dried ...you take a piece of canvas and run the wax all over the dried coat? And then burnish the that waxed edge with the canvas?

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[thefanninator]

I rub the wax on the canvas then burnish with the canvas.

[greekgod]

I rub the wax on the canvas then burnish with the canvas.

OK Perfect... I was thinking that the edge may get spoiled if I applied any pressure after the pain has dried? SO I take it that waxing it and then burnishing needs to be delicately done?

[thefanninator]

You can give it a fair amount of pressure and speed but make sure it's completely dry.

[greekgod]

You can give it a fair amount of pressure and speed but make sure it's completely dry.

Thanks very much for that thefanninator.. I have a set up of something like a filetuse.. Do i need to use it any any time at all in the process to get better results?

[thefanninator]

I tried melting some yesterday with a soldering iron. It worked ok but I did another coat and sanded. It might speed up the process of eliminating the line you get where the leathers are joined. Experiment and see if it works for you.