Dyeing A Light Brown Jacket Dark Brown.

[koolio]

I've been meaning to dye this jacket for a while now. It will be used in all sorts of weather so would prefer it not to run.. I'm sure I wrote about it on this thread years ago but it seems to have gone missing.

So I have a bottle of ethylacetate to clean the leather..

And a bottle of fiebings oil leather dye..

It's a belstaff motorcycling jacket. I'm just wondering if just dyeing it with Fiebings will be enough or will I have to put some sort of layer on, I don't want a shiny finish.

I've used spray dyes before but these have been on acryllic and always put a layer on rather than dyeing the actual material (for example VHT satin black vinyle dye spray paint) so I don't think they are suitable.

I have no idea about leathers, so given what I've said can anyone advise me on how to proceed or how to test what leather I'm dealing with?

Lastly I want to try going dark chestnut brown first and if I don't like it then all black, would I be able to redye with the fiebings if I went dark brown first?

It's actually the same jacket as the one Brad pitt is wearing and the look I'd want to go for, is there a way I could try getting it to that faded antique look like he has (before I go all black if I decide so).

Edited August 17, 2014 by koolio

[koolio]

Should I just take it to a professional?

[koolio]

Bump anyone?

[koolio]

Really no one any idea?

[Northmount]

I was going to say spray dye, but you have already tried that before. There is a leather garment shop near here, and they use the spray dyes to rejuvenate worn jackets. The dye they used didn't seem to leave a build up layer, nor become really shiny.

I have a can of stuff called "Tana Leather Magic Renew Dye". I bought it several years ago, I think from the same shop as above. Haven't used it. It has all kinds of solvents in it. Acetone, toluene, propylene glycol methyl ether acetate, 2-butanone, diacetone alcohol, xylene and of course propane and butane as a propellant.

Note that acrylics will not behave the same as leather. Acrylics don't really absorb the dye. Leather is absorbent as long as you have removed any surface treatment containing waxes, etc.

Open up the lining seam at the bottom of the back so you can experiment with a bit of leather that will be hidden if it doesn't work right. Then try your selection of dyes and see what happens. Then the one that works, use that to treat the whole jacket.

Be careful with these dangerous and flammable chemicals. Work safe.

Tom

[koolio]

I think I may take it to a professional. I am not even a beginner, only done a motorcycle seat and that was flat black.

The acrylic dye did not actually change the colour underneath, it just layered a black layer over the top. i.e. I can strip the black back to the brown it was originally.

I actually wanted to have the jacket properly dyed not just a coat over the original which is what I think sprays do.

Edited August 29, 2014 by koolio

[Northmount]

The stuff I have is not acrylic dye. Acrylics are water based, thinned with water. Not the extremely harsh solvents like in this stuff. But I agree with getting a pro to do the job.

Tom

[electrathon]

First off, there is a large risk of you not being happy with the outcome, so only do this if you are ready for that.

I would scrub it as clean as you van with solvent, leg it dry. Use the dye by applying it with a piece of trimmer sheepskin. Wipe in a circular manor. Keep moving fast. For a finish, use something like Dr Jackson's or some other shoe waterproofing.

[koolio]

First off, there is a large risk of you not being happy with the outcome, so only do this if you are ready for that.

I would scrub it as clean as you van with solvent, leg it dry. Use the dye by applying it with a piece of trimmer sheepskin. Wipe in a circular manor. Keep moving fast. For a finish, use something like Dr Jackson's or some other shoe waterproofing.

Do you reckon a professional will be able to do it? If so I will definitely take it to one...

[electrathon]

Do you reckon a professional will be able to do it? If so I will definitely take it to one...

Possibly. You just have to find someone who does it a lot.

[koolio]

Well I've spoken to a few people who dye jackets, I'm afraid it looks like I'm on my own.

1) It is prohibitively expensive and 2) there is a risk I'm not happy with it anyway.

So I might have to do it on my own!

[SteelcityK9Cop]

This is where we buy our leather jackets for work... They repair and refurbish them as well. If you are feeling funny about doing it yourself, give them a call, I bet they would do it for you.

http://www.taylorsleatherwear.com/cleaningleather.htm

[koolio]

This is where we buy our leather jackets for work... They repair and refurbish them as well. If you are feeling funny about doing it yourself, give them a call, I bet they would do it for you.

http://www.taylorsleatherwear.com/cleaningleather.htm

I would love to but they are in the States I'm in the UK

This is the sort of dark brown I'd like to go to, not sure if it's possible. I'm worried the seams also won't be dyed.

Edited November 7, 2014 by koolio

[Rick5150]

I am not sure if it is WAY too late for this, but I have successfully overdyed a medium brown jacket a darker brown, in a manner to make it look worn. I used dark brown Fiebings dye and Kiwi black dye with the spongetop applicator. You can see what I did here, and maybe adapt it to what you need? The Fiebings penetrates deeper than the Kiwi dye, but I am reading mixed messages into your request. If you want the aged look, you cannot really use a dye that will penetrate or you will have a difficult time getting those light spots that mimic wear. I believe the Belstaff leather is wax rubbed to get the antique finish, but you can sort of mimic the look by overdyeing.

Here is the original monotone chocolate brown color:

After the overdying process with brown Fiebings and Kiwi black dye:

I used less black where the jacket would normally wear to give it the look that color rubbed off there. Also scuffed up the snap and hit it with black to dull the shine back.

[koolio]

It's not too late at all, thanks so much for writing in. I think you must be psychic because I only recently started thinking about doing this again! Your work looks excellent btw.

I used dark brown Fiebings dye and Kiwi black dye with the spongetop applicator.

I had some really poor results with Fiebings oil dye, I was using a black and have found it's always left a sort of purplish hue on the top, I don't think I want to use it again.

I believe the Belstaff leather is wax rubbed to get the antique finish, but you can sort of mimic the look by overdyeing.

They occasionally are depending on the model but the one's I've actually shown and my jacket are actually sealed in a satin.

The Fiebings penetrates deeper than the Kiwi dye, but I am reading mixed messages into your request.

Well I'd want a penetrating dye get the aged look and then satin seal it for permanency. I'd not want a wax finish.

I like what you've done with yours except for I'd be after a very dark brown/black look or black aged in parts/seams to a very dark brown. Just like the last photo I showed really (and in the same vein as you have done). I have the added problem of starting with a very light brown.

Still have no idea where to start or how to go about it really, have had so many suggestions from leather redying companies, this forum etc. etc. and still pretty much a complete novice.

Edited March 18, 2015 by koolio

[Rick5150]

The main problem about the Fiebing dying was that it left a metallic greenish color, but I put my jackets through the washing machine to help age them and it took a lot of the residual unwanted color off.

Then the black dye covered it pretty well. The thing about the black dye is that I wipe it on, wait and wipe it off before it dries much so that it just leaves a darker area, but most of the brown shows through. So light brown + black = darker brown. I expect if you either did that a few times or left the dye on longer you can darken it nicely.

The difference is that I used an eBay jacket that I got fairly cheaply and if I ruined it, I ruined it. Who cares? I also did the black Kiwi dye on an $800 Horsehide jacket from Lost Worlds, so I am foolish that way. You can see the difference in the interior panels from the original color:

In any event, you will want to remove the protective finish if it is on the jacket so the dye penetrates easily. You can actually dampen the jacket with a spray bottle and dye it damp for more consistent results.

I usually finish the distressing by treating the jacket with Pecard Leather Dressing which will add most of the oils back to the leather that I washed out in the washing machine. It is a little like vaseline, but you wipe it on lightly, wait a while and then wipe it off. It looks shiny for a brief while, then that goes away.

[koolio]

I don't want to risk a washing machine I'm afraid!

Are you sealing the dye in with something? My jacket's going to be used in the rain etc. and I don't want to wax it.

[Rick5150]

I do not blame you. It can be scary and fairly risky if not done properly.

I have not sealed the dye in any of my jackets after dying them with either Fiebings or Kiwi. I wear them in all kinds of conditions too. I just hit them with a few treatments of Pecard Leather dressing, which is more of a protectant and conditioner than a sealer.

The only way the dye has been altered after an overdye is by using wither isopropyl alcohol or acetone. Typically the isopropyl is enough.

But I still feel that a rinse of sorts is necessary after a dye job. The first time you put your arm around your wife and some excess dye rubs off onto her brand new white designer jacket, you will wish you did. Maybe it can just be wiped with a damp cloth, I have no idea. I am kind of an advocate for the "all or nothing" method. LOL.