Making Holes For Saddle Stitching Your Leather

[lranger]

I punch all the holes before stitching and I use two different sized awls. One is very short and a little larger in diameter than the other one, which is also longer. Reason for the two different sizes is the thickness and type of leather. (smaller holes for thinner leather) On vegtan, I always use a stitching groove, and most of the time I even put a groove on the backside, too. I just like the way it looks better and it protects the thread. Putting a groove on the backside is a little tricky to get your hand punched holes to hit the groove. You have to have a very even edge and use a grooving tool that slides along the edge of the leather. That makes the groove the same distance from the edge on both sides. When you're punching the holes you have to be real careful not to lean your awl any. Once I have the stitching groove done, I punch the first hole, then run my stitching wheel around the groove to mark the holes, then go around it with the awl to put the holes in. Sometimes I punch the holes with the parts separate, and sometimes I'll put the two pieces together and punch the holes thru all the layers at once. Depends on what it is. If I'm punching thru several layers I generally have it glued together already. I use rubber cement on leather that will stretch, like buckskin, in small amounts. On smaller projects, I do all this on the bench, by hand. On larger pieces, like saddle parts, I chuck up an awl point in a tabletop drillpress and punch the holes. You'd kill your hand if you didn't. I DON'T DRILL THE HOLES with a bit.

Like Monica said, I also do a fair amount of hole counting, particularly when sewing buckskin clothing. Some projects require a lot of counting. Others don't.

I don't like the pricking irons. I have tried a diamond shaped awl in the drillpress on saddle skirts, but I don't use it any more because I feel the holes are too long/big. It's all mostly a matter of personnal preference. I think everyone should do it the way they are most comfortable, and how they like it. This is how I do it.

Keith

[DavidL]

My technique is I count the stitches as I am hitting them. For instance I'm using an 8 prong iron, I hit the iron once count is 8, overlap by 3 prongs and add 5 to the count.

So it goes first hit is 8, next is 13,18,23 and so on (counting hits of the iron works too). When I go and hit the opposite piece I do the same thing so that the amount of stitches are the same. On top of all that I measure 4mm or whatever distance from the edge to the first stitch with a compass to match the first stitch.

Do use the proper thread to SPI.

General guide lines:

If you want fine stitching go with .58mm threads for 6-9spi, .63mm thread for 5-8spi, .73mm thread for 6 and under

A thicker western style - .7- 1mm for 4-7 spi

Edited September 20, 2014 by DavidL

[Macca]

.58mm thread for 6 SPI ???

errr, no.

More bad advice

[DavidL]

.58mm thread for 6 SPI ???

errr, no.

More bad advice

Done it before. Looks all right to me, although it is stretching it a bit.

7 SPi at .58mm is perfect size imo.

Not sure how its bad advice but.. ok.

Edited September 20, 2014 by DavidL

[Macca]

Its bad advice because its just wrong, you dish out bad advice all over the forum, based on stuff you have read or just think, not experience, seriously, you are not helping anyone with your posts.

the lower the SPI the thicker the thread required for the same strength

You post numbers & even call them general guidelines, numbers no-one would recognise, they are far too thin for the SPI, both from a strength & asthetics viewpoint.

[DavidL]

Depends on what your making - wallets, small bags, check books or things to this nature it wouldn't matter as much as a saddle. Wallets/bags (made in china) that are made from thin cotton thread at 6-7 SPI, also not an issue

I have made wallets and bags from .58mm thread at 7 SPI. Again 6 SPI at .58mm is within reason for fine stitching, not for saddles. Asthetics is mainly a personal choice.

The sizing is the Fil au chinois thread 432(.63mm) and 532 (.58mm).

Edited September 20, 2014 by DavidL

[Hi Im Joe]

Depends on what your making - wallets, small bags, check books or things to this nature it wouldn't matter as much as a saddle. Wallets/bags (made in china) that are made from thin cotton thread at 6-7 SPI, also not an issue

I have made wallets and bags from .58mm thread at 7 SPI. Again 6 SPI at .58mm is within reason for fine stitching, not for saddles. Asthetics is mainly a personal choice.

The sizing is the Fil au chinois thread 432(.63mm) and 532 (.58mm).

Post up some examples of stuff you've made with that combination. I'd love to see it.

[DavidL]

7 spi - .58mm thread (532 fil au chinois)

Bottom of the bag 7 SPI - .8mm thread

Few mistakes on the bag, it was my first one but I think it looks good.

[Hi Im Joe]

You need a better camera. LOL.

[DavidL]

You need a better camera. LOL.

yup..