Problem With Stitches On My Cylinder Arm Machine..

[CustomDoug]

OK, I'm still having this problem.. it's soo frustrating. I changed out the old feed dog and needle plate for new ones. I am also now using a flat table top attachment.

Using #23 needle/ 207 thread / 4-5oz leather (2 layers at the corners) / spring loaded "compensating" foot (to help keep a 1/8" or so distance from the edge). I'm usually only having problems at the apex of the rounded corners - which I slowly walk the needle around one hole at a time. Threads look GREAT on the top side after I've sewn completely around the piece but when I flip it over I'm occasionally getting threads walking off the edge of the under side leather.

Here's one thing that I'm thinking may be the problem - I've gotten into a habit of just using the very strong double sided leather basting tape, it works great for my garment leathers (which is what I've mostly sewn up until lately) and is quicker and a lot less hassle than contact cement. I bast the two pieces together with the tape and hammer around the edge on both sides. The two layers are even at that point and all feels solid. You guys think this tape could be the problem? Will the contact cement solidify the two layers better, not allowing them to shift apart (because it seems like that's what's happening to a slight degree)?

Doug C

[truenorth]

Just my opinion,, if you let glue dry well most things, or in my case nothing moves!!!I like using double sided tape too but items gets "shifty" glue takes longer and is messier but works better if dried the needle doesnt stick and bring up the material just my 2 cents, hold on we got rid of our pennies up here lol!

[Constabulary]

Maybe you can post some pictures of your work. I think some member might know what the problem is when they see what happend. Pictures are often telling more than 1000 words.

[Tramps Leatherworking]

Is this a walking foot machine?

How much tension do you have on your presser feet?

On some machines I have actually had to lift and lower the presser feet after each stitch on sharp corners to keep the machine from distorting the bottom layer...

[CustomDoug]

Yes, it's a walking foot machine, cylinder arm w/ a flat table top attachment.

Tension at Presser Foot : I think (IIRC) I adjusted the presser foot to have more pressure a couple years back when I started sewing garments, to help me sew over multiple layers of garment leather where several seams meet. I just have sort of left it at that setting (been sewing garments until lately) and never touch it. Should I back that adjustment off then, to help this walking off the edge situation ? BTW - is this normally done on the fly then moved back to a lighter tension after the thick seam area? Or generally set and left?

Glue : Which glue would you guys use - contact cement or tanners bond (PVA white glue) ? I have both.

Foot/Guide Choice : Which kind of presser foot and/or edge guide would you guys recommend for going around fairly sharp rounded corners? Like I mentioned I'm using a spring loaded 'compensating' foot because it's great at keeping me a constant distance from the edge ON THE STRAIGHTS (no other edge guide needed)... but perhaps it's spring loaded "blade" is doing too much pushing down at the apex of the round corners. I have been slowly walking the needle around the corners . I am manually lifting the presser foot to see where the needle will go, and like I said it does look nice on the top side when done.

Sewing rounded corners advice : The nature of sewing tight rounded corners can be more difficult than it seams.. because I find that you never really take the leather item to the edge guide at the apex of the turn. If I go too deep into the turn, the corner will come out too squared off. I'm thinking that's where my foot might be messing me up - pushing the leather down there. Any advice for sewing tight rounded corners? Thanks so much guys..

Doug C

Edited November 6, 2014 by CustomDoug

[Northmount]

Remember that if you lift the presser foot too high, you release your top tension. So the bobbin thread will lie flat on the bottom.

Tom