Roll Top Bag

[Hi Im Joe]

OMG so many great posts and comments! I'll try to address them all...

I like this bag too! My idea would be that you probably could make the flap out of heavy canvas instead of leather. I think that would give the bag a "lighter look" if you know what I mean. If you´re going to make more of these bags you could give the flap different colours just to give your customer a choice. And I´d probably add a bottom parts in the same color.

Just my view as a customer (not a leather worker)

Nice bag - really!

Thanks Constabulary! I think making the flap out of some type of heavy canvas is definitely an option! I'd have to find a good supplier. Maybe heavy duty 1000 denier nylon? I have almost zero experience with fabric...LOL.

I like that a lot, beautiful model and great choice of leather! I think the veg tan will nicely colour with age so it looks even better.

Something I would consider is handstitching the visible seams (in a heavier weight thread, in a better matching colour (I see that was mentioned already, tan would be nice)).

Maybe I'm saying something really stupid, but is the D-ring connection with the rivets strong enough?

What might also be nice is to make the front flap fold over, so that the top stitches are on the inside (does that make sense?).

I like the idea of handstitching but I think I'd rather figure out my machine issues. Mastering the sewing machine is a big deal to me and it's something I'm committed to doing. You make a good point about the D-ring but I think it will hold up fine. However, time will tell. I thought about folding the flap over like that but the veg was just too stiff. The next one I make out of softer temper leather will be done how you describe.

Nice bag. I still hand sew leather, as the industrial machines are out of my price range. Positive thing about that, is I know my stitch size, thread, and lines will all work, no fussing with a machine settings between each project, and it's a great workout.

I have made lots of outdoor gear with my Juki,including a roll top for my back pack, so I am digging this roll top idea.

Thank you!

Hey Joe,

LOL, you're getting so much actual criticism, Joe, because your bag is so good that all of it has to be said. What Frederiek said about the d rings. And I wonder if you should flair outward as the bag goes up, but still stitch the whole rolled part all the way up to the top.

Super cool bag, great looking leather, and a lot of cool details.

Monica thank you so much! This is exactly the type of discussion I love having. There are so many ways to skin a cat that hearing others opinions and ideas is always so helpful for both design and construction. I think the D-rings will be ok but time will tell. I thought about stitching the flaps together but what stopped me was leaving them apart allows you to fold the top over when its open so you don't have to stick your whole arm in the bag. Also, having the flaps separate allows you to see into the bag easier.

[thefanninator]

Hey great looking bag. I see you've already answered questions about the stitching but I was going to say basically the same things... thread looks small for the holes and hand stitching would look great too. Good job!

[Hi Im Joe]

Hey great looking bag. I see you've already answered questions about the stitching but I was going to say basically the same things... thread looks small for the holes and hand stitching would look great too. Good job!

Thank you sir!

[Neillo]

Looking great Joe!

I see what you mean about where the seam meets the roll top, but in proper roll top dry bags (I use them when kayaking) the seam goes all the way to the top.

I've had good luck with using a 4-6mm (5/32" - 1/4") Hole punch in situations like that, so that when the seam flexes, the leather will create it's own relief.

Mind you, proper dry bags are made of relatively light, supple material , so sewing an inverted, or "invisible" seam all the the way up the the top would necessitate the use of much lighter leather than any sensible leatherworker would typically use on a bag, at least not without some serious compromises.

A regular external seam (with the leather edges showing) Would, of course, lend itself much better to a roll top design, but getting it to look good would require a bit of design ingenuity! It's a challenge it think you're more than capable of meeting, so maybe some prototyping is in order!

I really like the D-rings at the strap anchor points, having the option for removable and changeable straps is great and something I always go for on my bags, and the colour of those straps works really nicely with the colour of the bag!

Only real critique I can offer is that the thread should be at least V138-V207 and 1.2-2SPI finer, V92 is a widely held minimum standard for marine and auto upholstery where I'm from; and that's for working with light weight leathers. You could probably get away with V277 on the high side, but at the end of the day it's your preference and it's probably best to get hold of some thread samples to test before you buy bulk, as big spools of poly aren't cheap!

Keep up the great work Joe, Your spirit of innovation and trying new things all the time is inspiring!

[Hi Im Joe]

Thank you very much Neillo! My intention was not to make an actual dry bag so I'm not too worried about the seam going all the way to the top. I think the added ease of entry and seeing down into the bag is more important. Leaving the roll top un-sewn (is that even a word?) really helps to make it easier to get into the bag.

I'm working on the next bag using 138 sized thread. I'm not sure my machine can handle anything more robust than that. However, for some reason I get a lot of fraying and skipped stitches once I move up to 138 thread. I have to figure that one out. The skipped stitches are driving me bloody crazy.

[jqtoms]

Very nice. The brown pops.

[Hi Im Joe]

Very nice. The brown pops.

Thanks!

[Jimbob]

Go to leather sewing machines on this forum here...aske for Wizz or Toledo Bob...they can help you in no time....I ave an ADLER 105 and of course 138 is no problem on top....try to play with your top tension wheel and how you route your thread for less friction.....then try different size needle, go bigger and see...your 67 should be able to handle 138 !!! I also got an ADLER 267 and 138 on top works fine too !!!

See ifyou needle has nicks or been bruised....is it sharp...??

See if your 138 is left winded or right winded....makes BIG difference !!

Check you timing....is your needle hole coming up 1/16 to the hook when it comes arround...??

Let us know what happened...

[Hi Im Joe]

Thank you for the tips!

[jqtoms]

After seeing this bag again, I noticed some of the nice details like the leather piece that holds the D-ring at the bottom of the handles. That was a very good touch.