What Thread Size For A No. 3/0 Harness Needle

[CustomDoug]

Hi, I purchased a small package of John James & Sons needles a couple years back off ebay. The package is all black with a cream colored label (looks NOS to me), it reads "Diamond Eggeyed Harness Needles No. 3/0, made in Redditch England". I also bought a couple spools of Fil Au Chinois 'Lin Cable' waxed thread.. one is size 432(or 0.63mm) and the other is 532(or 0.57mm).

Would the No. 3/0 needles be appropriate for either of these thread sizes? If not, what size thread are they meant to be used with?

Also, of the two size threads I already have.. what's a good size pricking iron to look at purchasing? I understand that thinner thread is better with more SPI than thicker threads, but these two sizes are sort of in the middle of what's offered by Fil Au Chinois anyway.

Thanks

~Doug C

[DavidL]

I have the john james size 2 (not a 2/0) and it work fine for 532 and .8mm tiger thread.

It depends on how strict you want to get with your needle size. The proper needle to SPI may or may not effect the stitch look. If the needle is too large and stretches the awl hole then it will for sure effect the stitch.

3/0 is a bit larger and is intended to do .7 to 1mm. It will work for smaller thread.

size 2 would do 332,432,532. Ritza .8mm fits too.

Even smaller like size 6 can do 532 at max if skived if I remember correctly

I have 9spi, and 7 SPI irons. You do have to get 2 prong irons for tight turns.

What I found is that I don't like the 9spi iron, its really small and really fine items, like watch straps.

6-7 SPI is the standard for me.

general guideline:

5-6 for large bags.

7 for wallets

9+ for watchbands

Edited September 18, 2014 by DavidL

[CustomDoug]

Very Helpful David- Thank you.

I just checked the John James website and as you said the No.3/0 (that I have) is a large needle - their largest harness needle in fact. BTW, they also call it a size 16. These are 62mm length x 1.63mm diameter. So, I guess this will be too large for even the largest Fil Au Chinois thread, the 332 size. I plan to mainly use this brand thread for most my stuff, but if I ever do a really large piece - I'd still like to understand what kind of thread would be recommended for these needles. Any body know?

I think I'll start off with #7 pricking iron (for use with my 432,532 thread).. actually a #7 portmanteau is what I'll be after. Know who has the best pricing on these (either Dixon or Blanchard)?

Thanks again!

~Doug C

[DavidL]

dixon - 50-100 dollars depending on currency exchange or the size prongs. Ask for slimline version or ask for certain width of prong.

vergez - 99-220 depending on prong size. fineleatherworking.com contact the owner and he can quote prices for different size prong.

3/0 would work for thick threads like 1-1.3mm thread I would imagine.

[johnv474]

Stohlman's advice, not in his words: pricking iron (I.e. stitches per inch) plus number of cords in linen thread = 11 or so. E.g. 8 stitches per inch would work for a 3 cord linen, more or less. This is not specific to the film au chinois thread or your needles but may serve as one guideline.

[ramrod]

i use those james needles with tiger thread. i'm using .6mm with a size 4 needle @ 10 spi on a watch band. i like these needles a lot, but i'm haveing a problem with bending them - especially when the hole is a bit too tight. you just can't treat them like you would treat a size 0 needle. also, something i didn't care to see - they're made in china. seems every piece i've ever bought that was made in china is a bit substandard quality wise. but, this bending could also be inherent with the needle size, too.

Edited October 4, 2014 by ramrod

[CustomDoug]

What, the James needles are now made in China? As I stated above, Redditch England's where my NOS pack (mentioned above) were made.. yes it's a real disappointment to hear they've gone the china route.

Doug C

[ramrod]

i tossed the packaging away. yes, it did say made in china. i really like the size 4 needles, but way too bendy.

[yoji]

I think that hand sewing needles are ment to be bent when forced to and machine needles are engineered to be broken under force (oregon needles being an exception)

I am not chinese but it gets me mad when people wont appriciate chinese goods. Never heard anyone saying that the iphone is a piece of junk (quality wise). Designed in usa , made in china...

[ramrod]

i see your point, yoji. but in all honesty, i've dealt with PLENTY of chinese made products - from brake rotors to sway bar end links to.....well....sewing needles. the brake rotors were pitted badly and were very thin to begin with, the left side end link came apart after one summer of driving (and caused my car to handle dangerously) and these needles will bend easily. but, as i said in my other post, it may be inherent in the needle size. the common denominator is: chinese. it's just that i don't have the money (nor do i want to) buy things twice.