Reliable Msk-1245B

[phototec]

Anyone have an opinion about the Reliable MSK-1245B sewing machine, I can get a used (like new) one for $1000.00

The seller says he paid $1700.00 for it new, and it has a DC servo motor and table.

I don't really sew leather, mainly vinyl banner material, hem the edges, so only 4 layers of 15oz vinyl material at the corners.

The MSK-1245B looks to be a heavy duty solid machine, I have been looking for a used machine for several months and I think this will work for my needs??????

Thanks for any feedback...

[phototec]

Really, no one has and info about the MSK-1245B?

Help....

[dirtclod]

I would buy a new Consew or Chandler before i spent a 1000.00 on a used machine. That way you have a warranty and dealer support. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/chandler-406rb.html http://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html

Edited September 19, 2014 by dirtclod

[Constabulary]

looks like a Chinese copy of the Adler 467

[phototec]

I would buy a new Consew or Chandler before i spent a 1000.00 on a used machine. That way you have a warranty and dealer support. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/chandler-406rb.html http://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html

Thanks for the feedback, I have dome lots of research and Chandler is NOT very good, a big Dallas sewing machine dealer is not selling them any longer because of the poor build quality.

I have considered Consew, and was looking at the 206RB-5, however the MSK-1245B is a $2000 heavy duty machine and in NEW condition, and at half price, I think it's a very good deal.

http://www.american-sewing.com/reliable-msk-1245b-single-needle-compound-feed-walking-foot-sewing-machine.html

I was looking for feedback from someone who actually had one.

Many people on here have purchased USED machines and had had good luck and get more machine for less money (and NOT make the dealer rich).

Thanks for the info...

[Constabulary]

Seems you don´t get a feedback because not many are using it as it seems - maybe for a reason, who knows.

If these Chinese machines are good or bad will tell the time. As long as they are new (or not too old) they for sure will work fine. Most of the white painted Chinese machines are just labeled, meaning that some importers just put their sticker on them but as a matter of fact non of end consumer knows from which factory they come. So a sticker (no matter what "brand") on a Chinese machine tells nothing about the quality in general.

If I had to choose between a 40 years old Adler 167, Pfaff 545 or a new Chinese made "Reliable" (great name for a machine btw) I´d always choose the Adler or Pfaff or even Consew when made in Japan. They have proofed their reliability over several decades.

My newest machines is a 1967 built singer and the oldest a 1932 built singer. I wonder how long the Chinese machines will last.

Just my point of view - maybe I´m wrong - time will tell.

Edited September 19, 2014 by Constabulary

[earthling33]

Go online and see if you can find common parts for it like bobbins, bobbin holders and needles. Look around locally to find anyone who works on it. That might give you a hint about the aggravation factor of owning such a machine. Personally, if I were buying a used machine, I would try to find a known, reputable brand.

Just my 2 cents.

John

[phototec]

looks like a Chinese copy of the Adler 467

I think it's a copy of the Pfaff:

http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=HN.607999616572459019&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0

Photo of Pfaff 1245

[Constabulary]

of course - the 1245 in the name points it out.

[mk1madnesd]

I can only concur with the advice you've been given , I have an old singer 211 g 155 I've had over 20 years and it was well used when I got it , that machine still sews like the day it was new , I know an engineer that reckons this cheap Chinese stuff is lasting a couple of years under hard use then you've to throw them away because everything is worn out of any kind of acceptable tolerance. If you can get yourself and old singer 211g with walking foot and needle feed with a rising feed dog you'll never need another machine and it'll still be running when you're dead and burried!! I have the later seiko version of it that I use for everyday use and they're awesome, stay away from a pfaff 145 or 545, the stitches are too small and they don't like heavy thread , plus the lift up lever for reverse rather than a push down type is a ball ache, I know I have a 145 h3 I never use for that reason !!! I also have a Chinese built juki du 1181 copy which sews beautiful but they don't perform well round tight corners while seeing welting etc because the rear foot walks not the front and they try walking off the work piece if you're not careful, however for bags and wallets etc I bet they'd be great !

Regards Craig

[phototec]

I can only concur with the advice you've been given , I have an old singer 211 g 155 I've had over 20 years and it was well used when I got it , that machine still sews like the day it was new , I know an engineer that reckons this cheap Chinese stuff is lasting a couple of years under hard use then you've to throw them away because everything is worn out of any kind of acceptable tolerance. If you can get yourself and old singer 211g with walking foot and needle feed with a rising feed dog you'll never need another machine and it'll still be running when you're dead and burried!! I have the later seiko version of it that I use for everyday use and they're awesome, stay away from a pfaff 145 or 545, the stitches are too small and they don't like heavy thread , plus the lift up lever for reverse rather than a push down type is a ball ache, I know I have a 145 h3 I never use for that reason !!! I also have a Chinese built juki du 1181 copy which sews beautiful but they don't perform well round tight corners while seeing welting etc because the rear foot walks not the front and they try walking off the work piece if you're not careful, however for bags and wallets etc I bet they'd be great !

Regards Craig

Well, I appreciate all the info, I do understand all about the CHEAP Chinese machines and I have been warned which models are bad.

Now, the Reliable MSK-1245B is not one of them, and I think most people don't know the specifications this particular machine.

The MSK-1245B is a Heavy Duty compound walking foot industrial sewing machine with a list price of $2000.00.

A single needle, compound feed walking foot sewing machine is ideal for sewing leather, upholstery, canvas, synthetics and other medium to heavy weight fabric.

With its powerful feeding system (top and bottom feed) higher pressure foot lift and longer stitch length, the MSK-1245B can easily sew heavy materials with heavier thread.

Features:

Large bobbin capacity

Safety clutch

Link-type feeding mechansim for smooth operation

Semi-automatic lubrication system

Japanese Koban brand sewing hook

Upper shaft uses bearings for superior performance

Low noise, low vibration design

2,000 rpm high-speed operation

Stitch dial regulator (up to 9mm)

Reverse lever mechansim

Built-in bobbin winder (right on the front of the machine)

Table (20" x 48") and K-leg stand, plus Sewquiet? Variable Speed DC Servomotor included

I was able to negotiate a better deal than the sellers asking price, paid $800 cash and have the machine at home NOW (see attached photos).

It sews just assume large 9mm stitches, very quite adjustable speed servo motor, only runs when you step on the pedal.

As stated in the beginning, I'm NOT a power user (no production), pretty sure this machine will do everything I need and last me a long time.

My other options were all several hundred $ more for a lot less of a sewing machine. This thing is built like a tank and weights a ton. Just never thought I would own a $2000 sewing machine....

Edited September 21, 2014 by phototec

[mk1madnesd]

Looks like a Pfaff 1245 to me. 0bviously a copy , I did fancy one of those myself for a while but the price of replacement parts put me off , so settled for the seiko because a new hook assy is around £100 cheaper , feet etc are also cheaper for the singer based machines , although the pfaff looks like the same feet they're different . There's a polish guy on YouTube make stunning handbags on what looks like another version of the machine you've bought and it looks to perform very well .

Best of luck with your machine and happy sewing 😃

[zoomer56]

Congratulations on your purchase. Looking forward to hearing how it works for you.

[phototec]

Ok, here are my first stitches on the MSK-1245B, I only sew the hem on 15oz vinyl banners show in the photos.

I know nothing about needle sizes, or thread sizes!

The top stitches look pretty good to me, however the bottom stitches don't look right, what do you think I need to do (adjust) to make the bottom stitches look more like the bottom (see attached photos)?

The needle looks a little big to me (Schmetz 150), the guy who sold me the machine said he sew leather goods and tents with the machine and this is the needle he had in it.

I have a two other needle sizes, he gave me a box of 100 - Organ 110/18, and a few Organ 22.

The thread in the machine is V69 Dacron Bonded Poly, which looks to be the right size for my projects?

Thanks for any guidance on this issue.

[Wizcrafts]

If you want to sew with #69 bonded thread, use a #18 (110) needle. A #150 needle is waaaaay too big! It is meant for #138 thread, which is twice the diameter of #69.

Also, do not use a leather point needle to sew vinyl, unless nothing else is available.

Your goal should be to hide the knots inside/between the layers. If the bottom stitches are too loose, tighten the bobbin spring a bit. If this causes the knots to lay under the material, increase the top spring tension to compensate. Tighter springs cause tighter stitches. Over-tightening causes puckering of the material. Find a happy balance, but use the correct needle/thread combination.

[phototec]

Hey Wizcrafts,

Thanks for responding, I have literally read a 100 of your posts and as always you are 100% on point with great info ( I have been waiting for your reply since I started my post).

Anyway, I have changed the needle from the 150 to a Organ 110/18 and adjusted the top tension 6 full turns and now the threads look better on the bottom.

I'm not sure what type of needles these 110/18 are (leather point or not), the plastic box says: DPx35R, 2134-35®, 134-35®, SY7225, and this means nothing to me?

One more question: What is the difference between Dacron Bonded Poly (which I have two spools of), and Nylon thread, the guy who sold me the sewing machine said the Dacron Bonded Poly was good for outdoor projects (maybe like banners)?

Thanks

[Wizcrafts]

It appears that you already have regular sharp point needles.

Bonded polyester thread is better than bonded nylon for use in sunlight and moisture. It is also more expensive.

[phototec]

On 9/21/2014 at 12:19 PM, Wizcrafts said:

If you want to sew with #69 bonded thread, use a #18 (110) needle. A #150 needle is waaaaay too big! It is meant for #138 thread, which is twice the diameter of #69.

Also, do not use a leather point needle to sew vinyl, unless nothing else is available.

Your goal should be to hide the knots inside/between the layers. If the bottom stitches are too loose, tighten the bobbin spring a bit. If this causes the knots to lay under the material, increase the top spring tension to compensate. Tighter springs cause tighter stitches. Over-tightening causes puckering of the material. Find a happy balance, but use the correct needle/thread combination.

1

Wizcrafts, you said NOT to use leather point needle to sew vinyl, but you did NOT say what type of needle I should use for vinyl, can you suggest the best needle for vinyl? 
 

Thanks

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, phototec said:

Wizcrafts, you said NOT to use leather point needle to sew vinyl, but you did NOT say what type of needle I should use for vinyl, can you suggest the best needle for vinyl? 
 

Thanks

The other point: round/sharp point. Lol

Use standard round/sharp point needles when sewing cloth, webbing and synthetics, including vinyl.

Although there are several types of leather point needles, with varying faces and angles, they are meant for slicing through leather. Round point needles may be blunt or sharp to the touch, but are always round in geometry. They are designed to separate strands of material, rather than slicing it apart. So, in a nutshell, there are only really two types of needle: round/standard and leather point.

[chrisash]

Whilst it is true that a decade ago Chinese goods were poor copies of better quality machines with very poor tolerances, today with basically the whole world using CNC machines for tooling and vast improvements made to quality control, by far the goods made in china are as good or very close to the same quality as other countries with a history of high quality, and indeed many of the leading brands are made in China.

Few machines are as simple as a basic sewing machine hence the numbers of old machines still being regularly used, the question is were they over engineered to last the best part of 100 years their by killing the replacement market or j maybe just never bothered to design in a expected lifetime before replacements were required, like the rusty cars before the 1980's