Singer 29K 171 Needle Alignment (W/ Pics)

[thesergeant]

Hi guys. I just finished restoring this Singer 29K171 and it runs beautifully and forms an excellent, tight and consistent stitch (long as well, 4.3mm). The only problem is that in order to time it properly, so that the hook catches the loop, I had to move the needle all the way to the right of the needle hole. It's not contacting the hook but it's close. Unfortunately it does touch the needle plate hole opening and I can't use a needle larger than 18 and can only use it in the 22-23 needle hole.

Anyone have any ideas on how to remedy this? The hook appears sharp and long and I'm using 29x3 needles. I'm considering just filing open the holes further but don't really want to modify an original part like that. Any other suggestions?

Oh ya, and does anyone know the years these 29K171s were manufactured? It feels like it was manufactured in the 60s,70s but I really have no idea.

Here are some photos:

Edited September 27, 2014 by thesergeant

[Wizcrafts]

I own a Singer 29k172, which is the long arm, big bobbin version of your machine. It too has to have the needle all the way to the right to avoid skipped stitches. Timing is difficult on these Japanese built Singers, which were the last of the line of the 29k series. They were last produced in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

[Constabulary]

Have you separated the 2 cast body parts when you have restored the machine? Maybe you can try to loosen the 4 body screws and try to shift the upper body a bit to the left.

Just an idea for the case nothing else works.

But that will probably have an influence on your needle & hook...

I´d buy another needle pate and drill or file the holes wider if you don`t want to damage the original part.

Edited September 27, 2014 by Constabulary

[thesergeant]

Wizcrafts, thanks for the info! I had a feeling it was from that era. Surprisingly my 171 was built in Great Britain! I thought it was going to be a japanese made model before I picked it up and was surprised by the "made in" location.

Constabulary, thank you for the suggestion! I didn't even think about shifting the upper body, that's a great idea. I've give it a look tomorrow.

[Evo160K]

The mechanic who took care of my machine for years when we were in business stopped by recently to tutor me. He was saying on some machines he turns the needle slightly ( don't recall if it was cw or ccw) to get the hook to pick up. Does that have any bearing on this situation?

[Constabulary]

Constabulary, thank you for the suggestion! I didn't even think about shifting the upper body, that's a great idea. I've give it a look tomorrow.

It probably sounds radical but if shifting the body does not work I´d try to drill the screw holes a tiny bit wider and then shift the body again - you know what I mean?

Edited September 27, 2014 by Constabulary

[Wizcrafts]

Constabulary;

I believe his machine is not misaligned. He "can" move the needle to the left or center of the hole. But, if he does, the machine will skip stitches, just like my 172. There is something about the cam on the back, or the clearances in the shuttle drive system that causes the loops over the eye to be diminished and hard to pick up. Thus, keeping the needle all the way to the right gives the hook a better chance of picking up the little thread loop.

Sergeant;

Replace your shuttle and see if that helps. They are not all cast the same. Yours may be blunt, or worn down.

[Constabulary]

But when he is sewing the needle will be deflected by the needle plate so when the needle meets the hook the needle has bit of an angle. So when the upper body will be slightly moved to the left it could solve the problem. See his 2nd picture. Or did I get it wrong?

Edited September 27, 2014 by Constabulary

[Wizcrafts]

I don't know about the alignment of his machine either. He needs to check the presser foot to see if it lies flat on the throat plate on both sides. If the foot isn't square on the plate, the head may be out of alignment (four bolts). Or, the gearbox may be misaligned. There are two bolts under the gearbox that secure it to the arm.