Covering Stitching Clam With Leather..?

[CustomDoug]

Having had my eye on the $200 Vergez-Blanchard stitching clam for a long time but knowing that I would not be able to drop the $200 on one for some time - I landed a BEAUTY of a used stitching clam the other day, for a fraction of the price. It's not exactly like the VB, because this one has a handle built in for prying the ends apart, the body's shorter over all and is slightly chunkier, wider. The wood it's made from is really nice though, I'm thinking walnut or possibly old growth oak.. I don't know, but certainly not pine. I stripped the old grime and shellac off of it with Formby's .. rehydrated it with tung oil.. gave it a final polish with a home made beeswax and oil mixture. It's kind of stunning now ; -) .I'd post a picture if I still had a free picture hosting account (what are you guys using ?).

Anyway, I'd like to add a layer of chrome tanned leather around the two ends, to further protect the pieces being stitched. Would regular elmers glue be fine for this? Otherwise I have weldwood contact cement.. but that seems so permanent. Then again, maybe there's not a reason to think it'll ever need replacing?

Also, there is a small crack I need to try and repair. It's not bad but I don't want it getting any worse. It's located on the side where the pin is (that goes thru the side, to hold the leverage handle). It's about 1/2" long, I thought I'd fold some sand paper, rub it inside the crack, fill with wood glue, clamp with a good sized pair of vise grips covered in leather as to not damage the wood. Sound about right?

Doug C

[slipangle]

My two cents Doug. I think Elmers would work fine for attaching the pads, on bare wood, though if you oiled and waxed the wood where the jaws meet it may not adhere well. If so, I'd clean the wood as well as you can with mineral spirits and use contact cement.

I used some of that Tandy leather bond to replace the pads on my little pony, but on bare, sanded wood. It's a form of white glue.

For the crack, I would go with wood bonding super glue if it were me. Seeps into the gap if the crack is tight via capillary action much better than wood glue. If the gap is wide, wood glue or Gorilla glue on dampened wood.

Edited October 5, 2014 by slipangle

[Northmount]

If the crack goes right through, stick a vacuum cleaner up against one side, add good quality wood glue to the other side, and suck it through until is shows on the vacuum side. Them clamp it tight for a couple hours.

Another way is to drill a small hole and inject the glue with a syringe.

Tom

[krappstein]

Hi, Doug

I'm currently hosting my pictures at photobucket.com

As for the leather covers, if replacing them is a concern, an alternative to gluing may be whipping them with cord.

The common whipping: http://www.animatedknots.com/commonwhipping/

Cheers

Juan

Edited October 5, 2014 by krappstein

[CustomDoug]

I left the very top 2-3" untouched, just stripped, so I wouldn't think adhesion will be a problem. Although, the Formsby stuff might cause probs.. who knows. I guess I could try the elmers.. and if that started to delaminate, I could go to the contact cement. I imagine cleaning off all the elmers would be much more do-able than the contact cement.

I'll look for the wood bonding super glue, thanks for the tips guys!

Doug C

[CustomDoug]

Hey Juan.. I must have posted a fraction of a second after you did. Thanks for posting that picture.. I hadn't thought about attaching with cord. I may try that first and see how I feel about it (since it's easily reversible). It's a good idea. I see relatively thicker veg tan is possible with that technique too.

Doug C

[Macca]

I just use PVA & a bit of veg tan, easily replaced as required but more than strong enough for a clamp.

[krappstein]

You're welcome, Doug.

It's about 2,5 mm (6 or 7 oz) veg tan, cased then bent for a better fitting. Got the idea from Nigel Armitage (hope he doesn't mind). His seem whipped with electrician's tape.

Juan

[DavidL]

Just a thought. You could carefully double layer the area with semi strong tape that is paper backed and cement the leather onto the tape. You can remove the tape clean off the wood without messing up the grain. No glue residue.

[Macca]

I just don't see the need for anything strong, it won't be under any stress at all.

PVA works perfectly for me for clamp jaws & strops but is weak enough to be removed without damaging the wood.