New Wool-Lined Mocs

[lranger]

Finally finished the mocs I've been working on for this winter. My old ones are falling off my feet so..........

I've made plains style mocassins before but this is my first like this. Basically, these are made like mukluks, and an upper piece that fits around the lower leg can easily be laced on above these mocs. This is also the first time I wet molded the soles, too. I made a wood mold and formed the bottom of the sole using 8 oz. vegtan. Then, I glued in a piece of 14 oz. skirting leather, then glued wool shearling into the sole.

The uppers are elk on the outside with shearling glued to the inside. Used rubber cement on all that. Then, layed out the stitching holes and started stitching. It's fairly hard to stitch these. I can provide more pics that show what the pieces look like before they're sewn together if anyone's interested in making mocs like this.

They feel great on my feet, and they're soooooo warm.

Keith

[Redochre]

I bet those are going to be amazing when they bed in!

[lranger]

Yes,,,, the wool is pretty thick right now. Actually, I realized that the wool was just too thick after I sewed the first one together, so I trimmed some of the wool off. It was easier to do on the pieces that weren't sewn together yet. So, the second one was better. The wool will pack down, though, as they're worn.

[ramrod]

id like to see those pictures. did you use a pattern - or kind of build them as you went along? those are very nice. i would be interested in doing a pair of them. i've got some soft, thick chrome tanned cow that i'd like to use up.

[MonicaJacobson]

Wow, those look very nice and very comfortable.

[papadanny]

I love these mocs very nice. I would love to see other pics.

[bwillielv]

I hope my wife doesn't see this. She will be wanting me to figure out how to make them for her.

[lranger]

Hello ramrod......

You've caught me a little un-prepaired because I really didn't think anyone would be interested in these mocs. I took pictures as I was making the mocs with my 35 mm camera and I haven't gotten the film printed yet. But, I just got a new phone so I've taken some shots of the patterns to show you. I will have to try to explain the process and give you some tips.

I just made the patterns on the fly. You start by putting your foot down on a piece of paper and tracing around it. Keep the pen straight up rather than slanted. I modify this tracing to suit me before I cut it out. You don't need any details of the toes and basically I try to shape the toe to look like a regular shoe. (Keep in mind that you need extra room for the wool.)Cut it out when it's like you want it and use it to make the wood mold. Be sure to leave enough gap for the leather to fit in when you push it down in the mold. (I'm kind of assuming you already know how to do some of this stuff. Just ask me if anything is unclear.) When the mold is made, case the leather and press it. I trimmed the leather even with the top of the wood. (Flip the mold over to do the other foot.)

When the soles are dry, cut a heavier piece of leather (12-14oz.) using your foot pattern, round the bottom edges, and glue them into the bottom. I used rubber cement but you could use contact cement. You now have two thicknesses of leather in the soles. Use your pattern to cut out a L and R from the wool shearling and glue them in, leather side down of course. The soles are done.

I used brown paper to start with on the upper pattern making. I measured all the way around the sole to get the length I needed. I knew I wanted the sides to come up just above my ankle bone, so I roughly drew it up, cut it out, put a foot down on the sole, and started fitting the paper around my foot. You just keep modifying and changing it until you have it like you want it. (I've made more than a few pairs of mocs so I kind of know what I'm doing at this point.) Use a pair of shoes for a guide. The sides of my mocs are 4" high, on the pattern. And mine are 3/4" high around the toe. That is too short and probably should be at least 1 1/4" high because of the wool. Be sure to add about an inch extra on each side where it comes together at the heel. When you start sewing the upper to the sole, start in the center of the toe area and sew to the heel. Then do the other side. Now trim the heel part to fit and sew up the heel.

I started to use some leather other than elk for the uppers but I'm only going to wear mine in the house so I didn't. I would use something a little more flexable than vegtan if it were me, about 8 oz. or a little less.

When your upper pattern is made, cut out an outer piece of leather, and the inner wool piece, and glue them together. Same for the other foot. When you get ready to sew,,, I use a stitching wheel tool to mark the leather which gives about 5 spi. BUT, when you sew around a curve, like the toe area and the heel, the stitch spacing on the outer circumference has to be slightly farther apart than on the inside of the curve. I do this on the fly, by instinct and experience of doing it. Along the sides of the shoe, where it is straight, the stitch spacing will be the same. Start sewing in the center of the toe area.

When you have that all sewn, you can put your foot down in it, straighten it all out as best you can, put some paper over your toes and make the vamp piece. (What I do is make poster board patterns once I have the paper ones right.)

I punch all the stitching holes before I start sewing, I use an awl, (not a diamond shape), and I push it through on a 45 degree angle. The stitching line is about 1/8 inch from the edge. Regular saddle stitch. I use the awl while stitching to open up and locate the holes, which are already punched. I use #2 blunt needles and #346 polyester thread, waxed with beeswax. This will be pretty hard stitching unless you have done it a lot before. Just take your time and keep thinking "it may be slow, but if I stay at it, someday I will get through."

That's basically it. If you have any questions, just ask. I've been wearing my mocs all day today. They really are nice made this way.

Thank you Monica. All the mocs I've made before were regular plains style with a rawhide sole. These are made entirely different, plus the wool for warmth. They feel so good on my feet.

[Vikefan]

Man... I would love to know or get a pattern on how to make those moccasins. I Know I have some Elk Skin around here. Those sure look very comfy!

Excellent work!!! Oh.. I wear a Men's size 8 also!

Vikefan

[Colt W Knight]

Very nice. If my girlfriend of mom saw these, they would want me to make them a pair.

I recently made a pair of nonwool mocs for myself. I looked at a pair and said, that looks easy. Well, it was a complete MFer, they look like a 3 year old made them, and I don't ever intend to make another pair.

[bigorange]

Outstanding ! fine craftsmenship!!!

[lranger]

Vikefan,,,,,, full instructions on how to make them are right above your post. Any additional questions,,,, just ask.

A lot of people may think moccasins are easy to make. Some are,, sort of, but really nice ones that look good are not easy.

Keith

[Rickyrick]

I really like these. I have been searching for an inspiration and I think this pair is it. Made a knife sheath and a few holsters and they turned out well.... I think Mocs are next:). Thanks for post