JAZZMAN Report post Posted November 8, 2014 Hi everyone, i have just got my first mallet for leatherwork it is a thor 1lb nylon mallet. I have to say it is a bit smaller and lighter than i thought it was going to be, do you guys think it will be ok for general leatherworking. The yellow mallets from tandy seem to have a bigger head on them, i bought this because it was much cheaper than the other type. While it seems very good quality should i have gone for a bigger one and if so which one. Unfortunately i dont have any stamps yet or punches to try it out, i am building my tools up very gradually due to having very little money, i am really worried i have wasted my money.Here is a link to the mallet i bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121287575052?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwestislander Report post Posted November 8, 2014 I would use it and see if it suits you. It is probably alright for tooling. I started out with one of those cheap yellow hammers. destroyed it, as it chips and dents, so you can't hit your tools squarely. I have a 2pound deadfall hammer for 3D and large lettering stamps, snap and rivet setting. I have a Barry King Maul that I use for tooling. Use what you have as you learn. when you are able to see or feel the difference and your skill level improves, then you have time to assess and save for the tools that your preference and skill level deserve. There is a post here where someone, out of curiosity took a river rock and wrapped it with leather and used it as a maul/hammer. he was pleasantly surprised as to how well it worked! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Itch Report post Posted November 8, 2014 We use the weaver mauls in our shop.. http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/Catalog/CatalogListing.aspx?CatalogId=001&CatalogDetailId=39&NSM=Y Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAZZMAN Report post Posted November 8, 2014 Hi Midwest and itch, thanks for the replies, i know your probably thinking to yourselves this guy is bonkers just hit something with it and see what you think instead of asking for advice about a mallet on a forum, but sadly i have so little money that i am having to buy my tools very slowly indeed and i do not have any stamping tools or even bits of leather to try it out with, so i really do appreciate you more experienced leatherworkers taking the time to help someone like myself. This forum seems like a quite friendly place to hang out. I have had a few bad experiences on some of the other internet forums where people have become abusive for no apparant reason,i can be a bit oversensitive at times and find it quite hard dealing with those type of people ,so thanks again for the help. Take care my friends. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted November 8, 2014 It's what you have and what you could afford at the time. It will work. My persoanl preference are maule. I have a 16oz and a 24 oz. For tooling to get started your 16oz willwork. As you develop your skill you will be better able to determine what you want or need for your style. For setting rivets, snaps ect. I would get a 2 lb dead blow hammer from Harbour Freight they are about $6.00 (whoops just realized your not in the states). FOr now keep that hammer and use what money you have to get a few stamps and other tools. You will need a knife if you have a tool kit look and see if you have a utility knife with interchangable blades. Use it, you don't need fancy head knives ect. to get started. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAZZMAN Report post Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) Hi Camano thanks for the reply, am i right in thinking that dead blow hammers are rubber coated, if so are thay fine to use on metal stamps or do they do a dead blow hammer that is not rubber coated? Like i said i really do have a lot to learn.What do you think of this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hilka-Pro-Craft-2LB-24oz-Dead-Blow-Hammer-rubber-mallet-tent-pegs-dead-weight-/201169168968?pt=LH_DefaultDomai Edited November 8, 2014 by JAZZMAN Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted November 8, 2014 What you have pictured there is a dead blow hammer. I find them useful for setting rivets ect. They will work for setting a makers mark or an alphabet stamp. They don't work well for me when tooling particularly when you want to walk a tool like a beveler or backgrounder. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Itch Report post Posted November 8, 2014 I do not think that a rubber hammer will work. A heavy solid hammer will work ,it just get's a little dangerous hitting metal with metal.. That is why the mauls are nylon or something close.. Take your time and you will do just fine.. There are a Good bunch of people here with a lot of good info.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAZZMAN Report post Posted November 8, 2014 So should i buy a heavier nylon hammer for riveting then or a dead blow hammer, i am not sure which is best?Sorry if i am coming across as a bit of a dimwit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted November 8, 2014 I stared off with a deadblow hammer, just because it was what I had around. I still find it useful for some tasks, such as alphabet stamps and setting rivets that can't be set with my press. Anything where I don't want a bounce. I was then given a couple of rawhide mallets, which work well for most things, and a big improvement for tooling. I have since bought a maul from China on ebay for less than $20, in order to try one, and have to say I like it. But mauls are not so useful for a few things! I'll probably eventually buy a better maul, but I have what I need for now. I also putzed around some with a wooden maul. Not recommended. It splintered a bit hitting smaller tool handles. The maul I'm currently using: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-Leather-Stamping-Tool-Set-Craft-Tool-Kit-For-Leather-Cutting-Tool-Hammer-/311159085127?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item487286d847 Rawhide mallets are also pretty inexpensive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/rawhide-head-mallet-leather-hammer-Medium-/181560262197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a45d5be35 If I had to choose only one of the striking tools I've used, I'd go with a rawhide mallet. Hope that helps Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted November 8, 2014 You are not comming across like a dimwitt you are comming across like some one new to this and overwhelemed with choices and decisions. Every one here has opinions based on there experiences. IF you had money I would say keep trying different ones until you find what ytou like. However like most of us you don't sound like you have an overabundance of spendable assetts. All I can offer you is my experience of 40 years. I have two mauls I use for most of my tooling needs. I used to use a rawhide mallet and about 4 years ago I talked my self into getting two custom made mauls. I have never looked back and in fact just gave my rawhide mallets away to someone who had need for them. All of my rivetting and snap setting is done with a dead blow hammer. Although it is rubber coated it is not the same as using a rubber mallet. I set snaps and or rivets daily and it is done with a dead blow hammer. Your poly mallet will work for tooling for now until you get more experienced. Again what works for me may not work for others. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted November 8, 2014 You say you have a nylon soft - faced hammer. Thor is a good make; work with what you have, and learn to use it well. Meanwhile build up your collection of other tools, and your experience You can't really make much of a judgement if all you've done so far is one belt A dead blow hammer is designed to have no bounce or rebound whatsoever, hence the name - dead blow. It is usually made from a hard plastic or rubber outer containing lead shot. It requires a definite effort to lift it after each strike, and is not intended for regular or frequent use. It was originally designed (and is still used) for the installation of heavy engineering components. A hide or nylon hammer will do just about all you want at the moment, and is a bit easier to handle. Do not be tempted to get a rubber mallet even if it is heavier than your nylon one, it will bounce too much. It is the lead shot in a deadblow hammer that gives it the desired effect Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted November 9, 2014 I've just re-read your post. I must have been half asleep the first time because I've only now seen the link and realised what you've bought You've got a Thor nylon faced hammer! They're pretty damn good, you can't really get much better I used them in my job as a dairy plant manager, and at home working on cars. They stand up to serious use and last for ages. For leatherwork they should last for ever The faces might be interchangeable, you'll have to check with Thor; so although leatherwork shouldn't cause much damage or wear, you could change one of the faces for hide, or copper or something if you wish. Have a look at their website http://www.thorhammer.com Just carry on and use it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tramps Leatherworking Report post Posted November 10, 2014 Jazzman, Although, I am an huge advocate for using the proper tool for the job at hand --- I also allow a particular tools limitations to influence when and if I need to purchase something different... Use the Mallet and you will learn its limitations, and then you can decide if you need a more specialized tool... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites