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Posted

Strange configuration, maybe they needed it that way for a certain sewing applications on some of the equipment they have repaired with it or they don´t wanted to switch the foot all the time.... I don´t know.

The foot holds down the material and ensures that the feed dog can transport the material properly. When the foot pressure is too low it is possible that the needle lifts up the material when it is in the upwards movement especially when sewing thick + dense materials like leather because of the frictional resistance between leather and needle.

It is also possible that when the pressure is too low the feed dog has not enough "grip" to move the material forward (especially when the teeth of the feed dog are rather worn than sharp) but when the pressure is too high the feed dog can leave marks on the leather or when you have waaaaaaaaaaaaaay to much pressure on the feed dog if is possible that the feed dog is scratching on the leather w/o moving it (but thats rare). A good advice is that you keep the underside of the pressure foot well polished to reduce the frictional resistance on the foot.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Thanks for that Constabulary. Good tip about keeping the underside of the presser foot polished.

How about the roller? Since it's able to rotate around the presser bar, rather than being fixed like the foot, is there a correct alignment (direction of the plane it rolls in)? Why the roller rather than another fixed or wider foot. I think it has something to do with being able to turn the material more easily.

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Posted

For sewing fabric some folks use Teflon tape on the underside of the foot but I´m not sure if it works with leather. I never tried it

With the roller the is feeding smoother (no frictional resistance on the foot) due to the roller and so you can even reduce the foot pressure I´d say (fewer marking feed dog marks on the leather). And yes, turning the material is easier f.i. when you are following curved edges, you can sew closer to raised edges and so forth.

The position of the roller is straight as the feed dog and it should be adjusted close to the needle w/o rubbing on the needle and thread.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

Thanks Constabulary. That's helps. I'll practice with just the roller to see what it can do.

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

The 18-2 across the arm singer was just cleaned,oiled and a needle bar,feed dog, shuttle and needle plate replaced. to liven up the dull paint i use shelack with a cloth, just like french polishing an old piece of furniture but you need to move fast with the cloth!! this is from 1917 and has its original decals.

attachicon.gifDSC_14.jpgattachicon.gifDSC_15.jpg

This next one was left out in the rain to rust and was saved. it was stripped down and cleaned and polished. it is a 17-10 up the arm singer and it has all of its original parts to it i would think. the reason i say this is because there are two similarities to this machine and the old 45k1 on the floor. this 17-10 is from 1894 and the 45k from 1895 and looking closely at the parts you can notice that they are not finished like the latter models, they seem to be finished off roughly and maybe not squared up exactly. i managed to save some pictures of this restoration:

After it was cleaned and put together the only thing missing was the needle clamp, nothing else was needed. so i made that and put a needle in and it did not skip a stitch!!

The Singer 18-2 can sew dog collars and harnesses? The leather is about 3.5-7 mm. What about the needles and threads(nylon bonds) for this type? What`s the max size for needle and thread? I`m asking you because i`ve found this Singer 18-2 with 280$ and i want to know if suits me or not. Thank you!

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Posted

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Hi Dignitas, these machines are for light to medium leather, you would need a medium to heavy duty sewing machine for your 7 mm leather as that it pretty thick. you could maybe check out what other harness makers on the forum use for their work, i am sure they could put you on to a machine suited better for your needs. good luck.

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Posted

attachicon.gifSIL10-145-077a.jpg

Hi Dignitas, these machines are for light to medium leather, you would need a medium to heavy duty sewing machine for your 7 mm leather as that it pretty thick. you could maybe check out what other harness makers on the forum use for their work, i am sure they could put you on to a machine suited better for your needs. good luck.

Thank you!

  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted

Thanks for that Constabulary. Good tip about keeping the underside of the presser foot polished.

How about the roller? Since it's able to rotate around the presser bar, rather than being fixed like the foot, is there a correct alignment (direction of the plane it rolls in)? Why the roller rather than another fixed or wider foot. I think it has something to do with being able to turn the material more easily.

Alot of old sports equipment has felt backs and leather fronts with stuffing in the middle. While i have never used that machine, or fixed sports equipment, I can think of 4 issues which may be solved by the foot/roller combo. If I didn't leave my camera at work, I have a leather football helmet and shoulder pads from the 30's I could take pictures of the seams.

1: The backing compresses alot so the stitch tension could cause the outside edge to "fan out" as you stitch causing the edge of the material to be thicker, possible steering the material or lifting it off the dogs.The roller could be used to hold this down and get a flatter seam.

2: The rotatable roller would allow you to do seams down both sides of something without flipping it around.

3: Perhaps the roller also allows stitching items where the top surface is slanted in relation to the bottom, driving a regular set of feet to one side due to the slope.

4: Also helps hold down and feed the item if its upside down. You could keep the smooth leather foot for front side stitching, and use the roller for when you need the bite to feed it felt side up.

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

"There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"

Posted

TinkerTailor,

Your four points sure makes sense to me, I'm old enough to remember that type of helmet and sports equipment, might have even worn one or two. You may be interested to know, I bought the machine from a company that specializes in sports equipment repair.

Thank you very much for your input.

  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted

Hey Al - how is it going? Any progress with your machine? Have you tried my decals? Do you have new parts already?

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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