Choosing the right finish

[UKRay]

I have just been looking at all the assorted bottles of finish on my staining bench - Resolene, Tan Kote, Neat-Lac, Saddle Lac, Satin Shene, Super Shene, Leather Balm, Carnauba Creme and a host of others - not to mention Skidmores, Johnson's Kleer, Ear Wax and all the other proprietory brands and stuff I have tried - you probably know what they are better than me.

It occured to me that too much choice is almost worse than too little. I have trouble some days deciding what would be the most appropriate finish for specific jobs. Belts are a classic example as I have used all of the above at one time or another (no, not all at the same time, Luke!) but have finally settled on using Fiebings Leather Balm and Atom Wax for 90% of my belts because I think it does the best job. It looks and feels nicely expensive (every little helps) and it doesn't tend to crack when the belt is handled or worn, is easy to apply and buffs to a good shine. However, I still find myself looking at the others occasionally and wondering if they wouldn't work better...

My question for the forum is what finishes do each of you use for belts, bags (purses) and small leathergoods and why do you use it? What makes it better than any of the others.

Also, is there anything you have tried and would never use again - and why?

Edited November 7, 2008 by UKRay

[Luke Hatley]

Ray....ask 100 people you will get 100 answers.Fiebings Leather Balm/ Atom Wax gives me

the finish that looks good to my eyes.also there is nothing wrong with Satin Sheen.

the choice is yours.

decisions.......decisions..............

[hidepounder]

Hi Ray...Good topic! I use Neat Lac and Tan Coat....more because that's what I have always used than for any other reason. It's kind of like fishing...you reach for the lure you have confidence in rather than the one that might catch more fish! 99% of what I do is western floral or Sheridan style tooling and I'm particularly interested in this topic because I am unhappy with every sealer I've used, when applying them over an antique finish. When I'm finished antiqueing and have buffed a piece out, the colors are terrific! But the"vibrant" look goes away when I apply a sealer. So much so, that I now photograph before applying the sealer coat. Maybe someone else has experienced this and has a solution. I have used other finishes in the past, but I use these two the most. I can't wait to see some of the responses here...might learn a new technique!

[TomSwede]

Here's a sidekick to the original question. Hope you don't mind Ray? Luke will smack my fingers at next ambassador meeting if so;-)

What do you use to finish of your work when it is painted with acrylics??

I ask because the beefy guitarstrap I just made was as usually for me finished with Fiebings leeather sheen, applied with a soft damp sponge with a soft cloth on it.

Black stain came off and blended with sheen and got onto the white acrylics. Not a catastroph but I wish had sprayed it on but do not like to use the spray sealer at winter. It just stinks to much and also leathersheen gives a better shine I think. An airbrush won't be affordable in a loong time for me.

Tom

[UKRay]

Here's a sidekick to the original question. Hope you don't mind Ray? Luke will smack my fingers at next ambassador meeting if so;-)

What do you use to finish of your work when it is painted with acrylics??

I've only just started using acrylics and haven't got a good solution myself, Tom. Hopefully someone can help here - Tina, I know you do some amazing stuff with acrylics - what do you use?

[TwinOaks]

For 'art' pieces, usually just a resolene coating because the item won't be anywhere but a wall. For belts and (very limited) tack/ strap, I apply carnuba cream to the leather to get it soft, and once it's all absorbed a good rubbing of Fiebing's Aussie. For holsters it depends on the purchaser- the one I sold today was tan-coted on the tooled body, with a flap finished with Aussie. Why two? I doubt the holster will see much wet weather (knowing the customer), but summer time is likely to see some sweat dropping on it. Aussie blocks moisture better (IMO), but the tan-cote looks better on the basket weave (again, IMO).

[leatheroo]

tom, i dont have the range of choices that alot of you seem to have. i use a local product for stained leather, but for acrylics i just use a spray can of craft sealer. Gloss sealer that states it repeals moisture and dirt. i have used it on my masks for years and have had no problems. i just went to one of my first masks that i still have and tried to scratch off the paint...nothing came off!! i usually give a couple of coats..leaving to dry in between. I usually buy a good sealer from an arts shop.

[CitizenKate]

Tan-Kote is a favorite of mine, especially with the water-based dyes and stains. It renders a very stable, breathable, yet moisture-resistant satiny finish. I also love wax finishes in all forms, for the same reason.

Of the acrylic finishes, I like satin shene the most, mainly because I'm not a huge fan of super-shiny finishes, but the only place I use it is on pieces that will not likely be exposed to the elements.

Kate

[TomSwede]

tom, i dont have the range of choices that alot of you seem to have. i use a local product for stained leather, but for acrylics i just use a spray can of craft sealer. Gloss sealer that states it repeals moisture and dirt. i have used it on my masks for years and have had no problems. i just went to one of my first masks that i still have and tried to scratch off the paint...nothing came off!! i usually give a couple of coats..leaving to dry in between. I usually buy a good sealer from an arts shop.

Once again Roo!

We're in the same seat with limited access to stuff so I stick to acrylic finishess for now and gunna experiment more when I have time for it.

I have Carnuba cream available so gonna try with that on something. Mayby just paint on sheen to the acrylic parts when I do those.

Tom

[UKRay]

We're in the same seat with limited access to stuff

So what finish do you use on those amazing wristbracers, Tom?

I know just what you mean about the vibrancy vanishing, Hidepounder. It was one of the reasons I switched to Leather Balm and Atom Wax which doesn't seem to lift as much antiquing as other finishes and polishes to a lovely rich and glossy finish.

It seems to me that Resolene is a reasonably good looking finish but it doesn't stand up to wear very well. It particularly doesn't like water and damp conditions and turns sticky. I'm not at all sure what I think of Tan Kote as I haven't used it much but after Kate's comments I'm going to take another look.

I was very interested in Mike's comments about tooling looking better with Tan Cote - does anyone else feel the same way or have you found something better?

I'm also interested hear more about the best way to use Aussie - any suggestions?

[Tina]

I've only just started using acrylics and haven't got a good solution myself, Tom. Hopefully someone can help here - Tina, I know you do some amazing stuff with acrylics - what do you use?

Well guys...Ontop of acryllics it's easy. just some acryllic finisher with a brush (very soft one and broad...I use good quallity art brushes and Bro...I make sure the paint is dry first )I buy the Angelus Acrylic Finisher. It comes in Matt, Satin, Gloss or High gloss. It has a nice price ($12 pint and $18 quarts) and I think it works. The only thing though...If I have antiquing on I need to use Super Sheen or something from a spray bottle, this is nesecarry otherwise you will stain and smudge stuff up antiquing totally.

Hope this helps you a a wee bit//Tina

[twofour878]

Hmm...quick question. If I was doing a notebook cover with a name painted on in enamels with the rest done in antique paste would super sheen be a good idea for the finish?

[ryano]

I use Weaver's tough Kotes ($32.00 a gal) and Weaver Leather Kote($22.00 a gal). Looks great, water proof and holds its finish for a very long time.