Treating Veg Tanned Holster Liner

[Day Dreamer]

I did a search on this, but didn't find anything. My google-fu today may be weak.

I've started making some snap-on OWB pancake holsters. I'm using the approach I saw Mike/Katsass and a couple others detail here. Each half of the pancake is made from two 4/5 oz pieces of leather glued together, so it has a flesh side both on the outside of the holster and inside the pistol pocket. I'm really liking this approach. It makes a holster that's almost as stiff as Kydex.

After I glue the 4/5 sides together, but before I start assembling the holster, each flesh side gets a light coat of cold pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Other than that, the inside liner is natural.

For people that use this "flesh on all sides" approach, do you apply any treatment to the flesh side liner in the pistol pocket to improve durability, etc.?

Thanks

[Denster]

I believe you meant grain side exposed inside and out. I use neatsfoot oil inside and out after molding and drying just prior to finishing.

[Day Dreamer]

I believe you meant grain side exposed inside and out. I use neatsfoot oil inside and out after molding and drying just prior to finishing.

OOP's. Thanks for the correction on the grain side.

Do you dip the holster in neatsfoot oil or just rub it into the surface with a wool dauber/soft cloth?

[Denster]

I give it a quick dip in warmed oil then let it sit for a day before finishing.

[Red Cent]

Put that piece of leather in the sunshine and give it a beautiful tan. Seriously.

[Dwight]

The last one I did like that, . . . I dip dyed the two outside layers in black before assembly, . . . made one purty, purty holster.

My only "mistake" was the leather I used was just a tad on the heavy side, . . . actually wound up with a holster that could be used as a weapon, . . . it is so stiff and hard.

But it shore is purty.

And, . . . yes, . . . as mentioned earlier, . . . a good coat of neetsfoot oil will do good for both the holster and the gun inside it.

I also do not put any finish on the insides of those holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Lobo]

During the assembly stages of 2-layer holsters I treat them the same as single-layer. Form normally. Dye normally, When ready for finishing I like a modest application of neatsfoot oil to all exposed surfaces (interior and exterior) which can be done with a brush or rag. Then edges are burnished. Then sealant is applied. Then final finishes are applied. The key to all of it is allowing plenty of time between each step in the process. Dyes require 12 to 24 hours to set up. Neatsfoot oil requires 12 to 24 hours to penetrate and "settle in" to the leather. Acrylic sealants require several hours to set up (4 to 12, depending on temperatures and humidity, specific sealant used, etc). Final finishes also vary, but most will require 12 hours to cure out (assuming warm dry environment).

Regardless of specific methods and products, trying to rush the process is probably the easiest mistake to make. All of these chemicals and compounds we are using can interact with each other in unpredictable ways, especially when we haven't allowed sufficient time for everything to set up properly.

[Day Dreamer]

Thanks all.

I guess I was thinking that over time residue oil and solvents left on the pistol from cleaning would get absorbed by the liner and could damage the leather. Looks like I'm over thinking it.

[Dwight]

During the assembly stages of 2-layer holsters I treat them the same as single-layer. Form normally. Dye normally, When ready for finishing I like a modest application of neatsfoot oil to all exposed surfaces (interior and exterior) which can be done with a brush or rag. Then edges are burnished. Then sealant is applied. Then final finishes are applied. The key to all of it is allowing plenty of time between each step in the process. Dyes require 12 to 24 hours to set up. Neatsfoot oil requires 12 to 24 hours to penetrate and "settle in" to the leather. Acrylic sealants require several hours to set up (4 to 12, depending on temperatures and humidity, specific sealant used, etc). Final finishes also vary, but most will require 12 hours to cure out (assuming warm dry environment).

Regardless of specific methods and products, trying to rush the process is probably the easiest mistake to make. All of these chemicals and compounds we are using can interact with each other in unpredictable ways, especially when we haven't allowed sufficient time for everything to set up properly.

Thanks for the giggles, Lobo, . . . sometimes something is said that takes us back to our "voice of experience" lessons. Your last line above is a sure winner in that department.

May God bless,

Dwight

[snubbyfan]

That's the hard part for me sometimes, just leave it alone 'til tomorrow.

[Itch]

Every holster that leave, s our shop get,s the inside treated with KG 9 leathercote. It is some nice slick stuff.

Edited December 5, 2014 by Itch

[LederRudi]

Probably a dumb question: What would the final finisch be after applying an acrylic sealant? Leather balm? Doesn't the sealant prevent it from being absorbed?

[SteelcityK9Cop]

I assume you guys are leaving the inside layer "natural". I would think that a dyed interior would wear ugly over time.

[Dwight]

I assume you guys are leaving the inside layer "natural". I would think that a dyed interior would wear ugly over time.

i've done it both ways, . . . and it's kinda like twins, . . . they get old at the same rate, . . . get wrinkled and ugly about the same too.

But then again, . . . I dip dye, . . . so my dye is a bit deeper penetration than some of the surface dye jobs I've seen.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Lobo]

There are dozens of leather finishing products available, and just about everyone I know in this business has aq different preference.

Some use acrylic sealant as a final finish. Some prefer wax-based finishes. Some prefer lacquer finishes.

Some use commercial products. Some use their own formulations.

One of these days I still intend to finish out a complete rig in the old-time method: neatsfoot oil in a pan, warmed over a heat source, beeswax melted in, applied with a swab or bit of shearling, then buffed out to a low luster. In theory, the oil penetrates while the suspended wax seals the surface, leaving a finish that is water resistant and resistant to abrasion and wear. Should work just as well today as it did 100 years ago. Better than all the modern products? Probably not, but certainly "period correct" for an old Colt Bisley Model revolver I have in my collection!

[amcardon]

There are dozens of leather finishing products available, and just about everyone I know in this business has aq different preference.

Some use acrylic sealant as a final finish. Some prefer wax-based finishes. Some prefer lacquer finishes.

Some use commercial products. Some use their own formulations.

One of these days I still intend to finish out a complete rig in the old-time method: neatsfoot oil in a pan, warmed over a heat source, beeswax melted in, applied with a swab or bit of shearling, then buffed out to a low luster. In theory, the oil penetrates while the suspended wax seals the surface, leaving a finish that is water resistant and resistant to abrasion and wear. Should work just as well today as it did 100 years ago. Better than all the modern products? Probably not, but certainly "period correct" for an old Colt Bisley Model revolver I have in my collection!

I "hot dip" all my leather holsters and sheaths in a 1:1 mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. If you get the mix too hot it will cook the leather (ask me how I know) that will look great but be rock hard. I dip and keep the item submerged for a couple minutes, let it drip/cool, sit for 24 hours, then buff with shearling or cotton. It took a while to figure out proper temperature, process time, but I'm happy with this method. Running the stitching wheel over the threads while the piece is still warm from the wax/oil bath really makes them look great as well... Every once in a while I'll get a piece of leather that doesn't want to absorb anything and I'll do this same method but during the 24 hours after dipping, I'll run a heat gun on low over the piece to melt the wax and help drive it in a little bit more, it really seems to soak it in when coaxed with a little heat (just enough to melt the wax). I know many would say that dipping in oil is too much but in my experience, albeit quite limited, it has worked very well for me.

Edited December 12, 2014 by amcardon