Treating Veg Tanned Holster Liner

[Itch]

Every holster that leave, s our shop get,s the inside treated with KG 9 leathercote. It is some nice slick stuff.

Edited December 5, 2014 by Itch

[LederRudi]

Probably a dumb question: What would the final finisch be after applying an acrylic sealant? Leather balm? Doesn't the sealant prevent it from being absorbed?

[SteelcityK9Cop]

I assume you guys are leaving the inside layer "natural". I would think that a dyed interior would wear ugly over time.

[Dwight]

I assume you guys are leaving the inside layer "natural". I would think that a dyed interior would wear ugly over time.

i've done it both ways, . . . and it's kinda like twins, . . . they get old at the same rate, . . . get wrinkled and ugly about the same too.

But then again, . . . I dip dye, . . . so my dye is a bit deeper penetration than some of the surface dye jobs I've seen.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Lobo]

There are dozens of leather finishing products available, and just about everyone I know in this business has aq different preference.

Some use acrylic sealant as a final finish. Some prefer wax-based finishes. Some prefer lacquer finishes.

Some use commercial products. Some use their own formulations.

One of these days I still intend to finish out a complete rig in the old-time method: neatsfoot oil in a pan, warmed over a heat source, beeswax melted in, applied with a swab or bit of shearling, then buffed out to a low luster. In theory, the oil penetrates while the suspended wax seals the surface, leaving a finish that is water resistant and resistant to abrasion and wear. Should work just as well today as it did 100 years ago. Better than all the modern products? Probably not, but certainly "period correct" for an old Colt Bisley Model revolver I have in my collection!

[amcardon]

There are dozens of leather finishing products available, and just about everyone I know in this business has aq different preference.

Some use acrylic sealant as a final finish. Some prefer wax-based finishes. Some prefer lacquer finishes.

Some use commercial products. Some use their own formulations.

One of these days I still intend to finish out a complete rig in the old-time method: neatsfoot oil in a pan, warmed over a heat source, beeswax melted in, applied with a swab or bit of shearling, then buffed out to a low luster. In theory, the oil penetrates while the suspended wax seals the surface, leaving a finish that is water resistant and resistant to abrasion and wear. Should work just as well today as it did 100 years ago. Better than all the modern products? Probably not, but certainly "period correct" for an old Colt Bisley Model revolver I have in my collection!

I "hot dip" all my leather holsters and sheaths in a 1:1 mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. If you get the mix too hot it will cook the leather (ask me how I know) that will look great but be rock hard. I dip and keep the item submerged for a couple minutes, let it drip/cool, sit for 24 hours, then buff with shearling or cotton. It took a while to figure out proper temperature, process time, but I'm happy with this method. Running the stitching wheel over the threads while the piece is still warm from the wax/oil bath really makes them look great as well... Every once in a while I'll get a piece of leather that doesn't want to absorb anything and I'll do this same method but during the 24 hours after dipping, I'll run a heat gun on low over the piece to melt the wax and help drive it in a little bit more, it really seems to soak it in when coaxed with a little heat (just enough to melt the wax). I know many would say that dipping in oil is too much but in my experience, albeit quite limited, it has worked very well for me.

Edited December 12, 2014 by amcardon