alexitbe Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Posted December 31, 2014 Thank everyone and sorry for neglecting this thread... I have, however, not been neglecting the Singer. I have been working hard on it to try and finish it for Friday... I, basically, used the other shuttle I have and filled up the spool and tightened the tension spring as much as possible. It seemed to do the trick. I shall post picks of what it did shortly. Strangely, the length of the stitches increased with the thicker material. The reality of the whole saga was, I fiddled and adjusted things. Cleaned and sprayed with oil and it still didn't work. I came the following mornig and it was stiching fine. Must have good pixies in the cellar.. However, I don't reallyu know what did the trick. So after getting ti to stitch ok, I decided to take it apart.... Bugger! I am stuck at removing the pivot pins of the take up lever and one or two others. I have not been aboe to shift them for almost two days so have order a bike chain tool, which should do the job. So I can relax until it arrives on Monday. All other bits and pieces are clean. I shall order one or two things from college sewing in the UK. Pictures shortly Quote
Members Constabulary Posted December 31, 2014 Members Report Posted December 31, 2014 The pins are slightly conical / tapered. Usually the pins go out from back to front - don´t try to tap them from front to back as you will drive them in and not out and you will probably damage parts!!!! You do not need special tools for that. Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
alexitbe Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Posted January 4, 2015 Hi Constablulary, Thanks for the reply. I went and checked on my other machine and one pins just eased out with light pressure and the other did not shift at all... I guess its just clogged with 100 years of gunk. My bike tool arrieved and it needs some moification in order to work. I could not wait until Monday, so I tried heating with a soldering iron in the hope that some expansion will loosen things abit when it cools... It worke on the pin for the take up lever, but not for the needle bar pin... So I must remain patient.. For those that are interested there is a resotration blog on the 29k with lots of pics here : http://northants-restoration.blogspot.de/2011/09/setting-timing-on-assembly.html Scroll down to the bottom to see all the ifferent posts. Alex Quote
Members shoepatcher Posted January 5, 2015 Members Report Posted January 5, 2015 Alexitbe,Your 29D60 has two following pinions instead of one following pinion and a short rack gear which is on the 29K60. Timing will be like timing a 29K51 which also had three gears but they were much smaller and had much finer teeth. Only difference I see in your 29D60 vs. 29K60. glenn Quote
alexitbe Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks for that information Glenn. I will confirm it with a photo, if I can get the bloody screws off. However, I have been trying to do that since I got it before Christmas and its completely outsmarted me... so far. Does anyone use grease on these things? All I see mentioed is oil, but to me, the parts like cogs, foot lift bar, revolving bush and hinge pins should have a dab of grease.... cheers Alex Quote
Members shoepatcher Posted January 7, 2015 Members Report Posted January 7, 2015 Alexitbe, I found the best lubricate for those areas was STP. It is thicker than oil and thinner than grease. Really works well. The problem with grease is that it will hold dirt and other things that you do not want in the gears and roller cam tracks like metal shavings or broken needles in the gears. glenn Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 7, 2015 Members Report Posted January 7, 2015 I´m using grease only in capsuled gear boxes f.i. my 307G2 has one and the 133K3 has two. My 111G156 and the 29K71 get my favorite S-761 oil. As Shoepatcher said, grease holds dirt, lint and so on. Oil in best case and when used frequently will wash out some of the dirt. I still oil my 133K3 about twice a month no matter if I used or not (stupid hum?) as some of the bushings still "spit out" some old dirt bound in the oil that is dripping from the machine. Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
alexitbe Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Posted January 22, 2015 Ok, I took everyone advice and used no grease... It is now working and 'I made my first repair last night, on my son's shoes which were about to be thrown out. In retrospect, I could simply have replaced the spring in the shuttle which had a groove in from the thread. This made a huge difference and I can really get tension on the thread... Without any real refinement I have 3mm stitches with balanced upp and lower tension. I replaced the spring on the needle bar, which also had a groove in it. I imagine this also helped. I got to learn how to maximise the lift of the foot. So now its a little below maximum, on the high setting. I have not checked the low setting yet. I have only cleaned the head. I will attempt the rest at another date.I I only managed to remove one hinge, that I mentioned above and I still cannot remove the screws to look at the gearing. I hope eventual, after much oil, they will move. C heersAle x Quote
Members Darren Brosowski Posted January 25, 2015 Members Report Posted January 25, 2015 A good friend of mine gave me this link as part of a thread on Wittenberg built domestic machines. It appears that the German factory may have been responsible for the 15-88 and possibly the 201 domestic machines. http://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/wittenberge/ Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 25, 2015 Members Report Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Well - Singer in Wittenberge made A LOT of industrial sewing machines as is seems - they even made a 111W type called 111WD. Here you can find a list of German made / assembled "Wittenberge" Singers: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite01_singer.htm http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite02_singer.htm Yet I unfortunately have not seen many of the German made machines (meaning pre 1945 made). I would love to see (and own) one of the 111WD model machines. I guess a lot of factory used industrial machines where destroyed during the allied air raids during the war. I was fortunate to acquire a wooden box of an traveling shoemaker (or cobbler) + leather worker. And that box contained a nice bunch of NOS singer spare parts (tension springs and tiny screws mainly) Singer needles and a huge lot of harness and Sys 328 needles, awls, thread and so forth. The most interesting part (though not very spectacular) was and accessory box of the 111WD machine so I know they really exited! I asked the seller if he still has the machine but seems it is long gone - too bad. Edited January 25, 2015 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
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