Leather Stiffening

[Tiara]

Enjoy the session. I don't get to Celtic sessions often, the closest is an hour away now. Have done a couple of gigs with Irish music at a new pub we're hoping will start sessions. Do more playing of bluegrass, various world music, rock, whatever. It's a versatile drum. Even in the 4 years since I started with it, the drum makers have improved the skins, tuning rings, tuners, using just about anything from kangaroo to bison and drummers have added to the techniques of play, And must not forget the tipper makers! Another whole area combining old and new. Different woods, shape, length, counterweights, ah! data junkie heaven!

I've got a used bass drum skin I want to try to stencil and dye and then send to a fairly new bodhran maker in the US turning out some good drums. Haven't had the time yet to work out how to prevent the wicking I've had. I suspect an airbrush will be the way to go but don't have one and already have more I want to learn than I have time for.

I'm not sure if it is a moisture cure or not. I've been using a clear urethane called Liquid Fusion with good results. I'm interested in the silicone as a way to have some raised sections with flex and possibly try for my own cell phone case with an exotic leather covered in a clear material that will help absorb impact. Not sure if the flexible UV cure resins would be protective enough.

[BDAZ]

Not sure what pat of the world you are in. I'm currently in North Carolina and we have two sessions a week, same as Tucson, where I host one. I also play old time banjo and lots of jams here and Tucson as well.

I shot this a couple of years ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUMc8WIht4w

Cya!

Bob

Edited December 28, 2014 by BDAZ

[Itch]

This may work for you http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33257

[TwinOaks]

For the simple molding of leather, you could try the cuir bouilli method....which is 'wet forming'. The idea behind heating the leather is to speed up the drying and 'heat set' the collagen in the hide. I use a toaster oven set at 150, but with the door left open a little bit. Starting from 'cold', I set it for 10 min and start checking it at 6. If it's getting too hot to touch, it's time to pull the leather from the heat.

Another method you could use is to shape the leather as above, then coat the leather with a combination of melted wax and oil. When the leather and wax blend are hot, the leather will soak up the blend quite readily. Then when it cools, it will have a very hard hand and be very water resistant. This is often seen in traditional styled Puuko sheathes made from leather (as opposed to the fiber board they also use), and in some leather tankards, bottles, etc.

[tankerman1967]

Hey yall. I was at lowes the other day and saw this rotten wood stabilizer. I got it and gave it a try. I put one cote on the flesh side and let it dry overnight. The leather did stiffen up a bit. It also shrunk in thickness a bit also. The leather is still pliable and it retains its shape, for the most part. I think I am going to try tooling a test piece and put 2 layers of this on the flesh side. So far I think this will work for what I want. just stiff enough to hold a shape but not rock hard. I will keep yall updated on progress. I am also gonna try something from minwax called "wood hardener"

Thanks for all yall's time

I was trying to post a picture but the site will not let me. I will start a new thread when I get the test piece done

[BDAZ]

I am not at home or I'd test it first but if wet forming isn't sufficient, try "pasting" the flesh side with a standard water based wood glue. It is a service offered by some leaher suppliers.

Cya!

Bob

[Lillian ADju]

Hi
You have here an excellent tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGikTadTN64

Regards
Aleksandar

[JoeSnuffie]

Maybe this would work on a larger scale. I use Mop and Glow 50/50 with water for the holes I make for bracelets that use Sam Brown studs or beads. I soak the flesh side around the hole and when it's dried it's almost as stiff as plastic and the stud or bead fits securely in with a nice snap. I'm wearing a 2 year old bracelet that still snaps in place.

[Tiara]

Joe, isn't the mop n glow the same basic ingredient as acrylic finish?

I tried that once but the stink from something in it gives me a bad chemical sensitivity reaction. I don't get that from

the acrylic leather finishes. Don't know if it is some sort of perfume added or what but it's nasty. I've had to leave the gym a few times when the hallway floor was being waxed with it.

But if its the same chemicals, soaking the flesh side and edges with acrylic leather finish should have the same effect.

[BDAZ]

After comparing the ingredients of mop & Glo and Resolene, it appears Mop & Glo has a much higher percntage of Acrylic polymers but it also contains a high percentage of Diethylene glycol monoethyl ethers, which is a solvent and used for the cleaning side of the product. I am not sure what affect it would have on undyed leather but would probably affect any oil or alcohol stains applied.

Cya!

Bob