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Posted

I actually used the utility knifes and such, would trace the pattern or line onto the leather then free hand cut the lines.

Lastweek I picked up my first roundknife. and I must say WOW these things are nice. It felt really clumsy at first but now that Im getting the hang of it its amazing. Keep it sharp and away from the fingers (yeah I drew blood the first night) and your good to go.

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Posted

Another option if you're matching edges- overlap slightly and cut the double thickness. That way you have the same edge, even if you hold the blade at an angle.

For thicker leather, I use a head knife, for thinner I use a "hobby knife". It's an exacto style blade in a fixed plastic handle- no working loose, no change out. I also strop this blade reglarly when cutting.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

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Posted
I'm surprised to see that no one is using a head knife! I dampen the leather, make a strong mark with a stylus, and then cut freehand with a headknife. I've found that I can cut within a pencil mark. I used to use a straight edge and utility knife, but inevitably, something would slip resulting in disaster. The width of a head knife is such that there is so much blade in the cut, that cutting straight is almost easier than a cutting a curve! It goes without saying that your knife must be very sharp! Using a head knife seemed awkward at first, but I assumed there was a reason why all the pro's used them. Now I know!

If I need two pieces to match identically...I cut the first piece, then use it as a template to cut the second piece. This is usually adequate. But if not, I wait for them to dry, then I use blue 3M tape to hold them together and I sand the edges to a "finish" line on a stationary belt sander. This is what I do, hope it helpful to you.....

Bob

Bob, I use a head knife for just about all my cuts, unless it's an delicate cut requiring the scalpel. I find that I can control the head knife much better than anything I have in my arsenal.

I usually cut on a poly cutting mat or poly cutting board, because the self healing mats tend to grab the knife edge and make it a little harder to push. The poly makes it effortless and in my opinion effortless = safer. :cheers:

Marlon

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Posted

When I use a steel straight-edge (1ft or 2ft) to cut against, I have a strip of masking tape stuck to the underside of the steel. The matt surface of the tape helps to 'grip' the leather - especially thin leathers - and prevents it from slipping.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Okay I am about to drive myself crazy not being able to cut a straight line and then match up two pieces of a notebook cover. Does anyone have any suggestions about making pieces of a pattern the same... I don't know if I am just letting the pattern slip or something to keep having this problem..

When I learned leather working ,I was told to use a slightly higher table ...and always stand when cutting.You have more control over the amount of pressure you can exert on the knife.Good luck.Also, if cutting garment leather, either use a cutting board(butcher block style)or self healing vinyl cutting mat. Years ago , all the hand cutters in the garment center would place a block of wood under the top side of their cutting boards. This a created a slight angle to the board...kind of like a drafting table.but not as extreme.

Joy

  • 2 years later...
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Posted

Use a steel rule to make a straight line on the leather with a scratch awl. Then use your round or head knife to cut along the line. Easy :-)

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Posted

A lot of good advise on this topic! Thank you everyone. I am considering investing in a head knife now . . .

Anyway, I just wanted to point out that leather can also be sanded. If your "straight" edge is not exactly straight, that is, just a little off, you can always sand you leather a little. Of course this only works if you overcut instead of undercut. Just wanted to let you know. A quick sanding can help fix a number of cutting problems. It is especially useful when using an x-acto knife since it is often hard to keep those parallel. Sanding those "corners" can help shape them up.

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

For light and medium weights I use a stainless steel ruler and a roller cutter.

Okay I am about to drive myself crazy not being able to cut a straight line and then match up two pieces of a notebook cover. Does anyone have any suggestions about making pieces of a pattern the same... I don't know if I am just letting the pattern slip or something to keep having this problem..

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