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Posted

I have my most repeated customer and the one I have done more "first time" projects for asking for a avenger for a Ruger GP100 4 Inch Barrel.

I have made several avenger and am starting to get comfortable making them but in my head there are little voices screaming there is going to be some things new to learn in this build.

Any tips or things I should be aware of?

Of course pics are very helpful as well

Amarillo Texas

bambamholsters.com

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Posted

Nope. You've made 'avenger' holsters before - this one not so very different. A little less 'square' than a rig for a pistol, but ....

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

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Posted

Have you made one for a revolver before?

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it."
-Col. Jeff Cooper

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Posted

none for a revolver......but a few cowboy.....should not be a problem......famous last words

Amarillo Texas

bambamholsters.com

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Posted

I recently made a holster for one of those, and had to get the bluegun ....If you need it, I can put together a 'base' pattern for the shell around the gun. After that, it's just adding attachment points. Shall I make one up?

Mike DeLoach

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The stitch line in front of the frame is like the stitch line in front of the trigger guard on a semi auto: it stops the gun from sinking any deeper into the holster.

I've made about 20 semi auto avengers and one revolver one. I read old forum posts, and was able to get the revolver holster right on the first try. Maybe it was just dumb luck 😉

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it."
-Col. Jeff Cooper

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Posted

Found a pic of the one revolver holster I've done. Notice the horizontal section of stitching in front of the frame? That it's what will stop the gun from sinking in deeper over time. The trigger guard on this revolver is much more rounded (oval-ish?) than on most semi autos would be.

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"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it."
-Col. Jeff Cooper

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Posted

twin oaks....that won't be necessary but appreciate the offer.

dakota......thinks the pic and the tip are very helpfull.

I am going to draw it up to day..........see how we do......

Amarillo Texas

bambamholsters.com

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Posted

Well, Im about half way in to it. There was a time I would have been worried the whole time.

Progress is all I look for. making patterns has always been a challenge. I recently did one for a cz75b and decided to just put the gun in the paper (cardstock) pattern and study it. After a while it becomes more obvious if something is out of whack. I made an adjustment to the stichline and got after it. Best as I recall it is the first pattern that was spot on perfect from the get go.

post-23581-0-66752200-1420288784_thumb.j

Amarillo Texas

bambamholsters.com

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Posted

The stitch lines on the CZ holster look spot on. I found a revolver a little tougher to calculate stitch line placement because of the drastic difference in thickness of the frame/barrel vs the cylinder. Like you said, put it in paper and study it.

A friendly critique on the CZ holster: try not the change stitch line directions at sharp right angles (e.g. the one behind the CZ's trigger guard). I'm not sure if there is a reason rounding them, at least a little, other that it looks better. I've never seen a pro have squared off corners on a stitch line.

When I draw my pattern it has right angles, but then I round them. Typically I hold coins up to the intersection of the lines and trace the radius just until one line flows around the coin and meets the perpendicular line. The size coin you use should become apparent as you study your pattern on paper with the gun next to it.

And yes, I realize the revolver pic I posted earlier has some squared off looking stitch lines. Live and learn. 😀

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it."
-Col. Jeff Cooper

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