Any Tips On My First Revolver

[cleanview]

I have my most repeated customer and the one I have done more "first time" projects for asking for a avenger for a Ruger GP100 4 Inch Barrel.

I have made several avenger and am starting to get comfortable making them but in my head there are little voices screaming there is going to be some things new to learn in this build.

Any tips or things I should be aware of?

Of course pics are very helpful as well

[JLSleather]

Nope. You've made 'avenger' holsters before - this one not so very different. A little less 'square' than a rig for a pistol, but ....

[dakotawolf]

Have you made one for a revolver before?

[cleanview]

none for a revolver......but a few cowboy.....should not be a problem......famous last words

[TwinOaks]

I recently made a holster for one of those, and had to get the bluegun ....If you need it, I can put together a 'base' pattern for the shell around the gun. After that, it's just adding attachment points. Shall I make one up?

[dakotawolf]

The stitch line in front of the frame is like the stitch line in front of the trigger guard on a semi auto: it stops the gun from sinking any deeper into the holster.

I've made about 20 semi auto avengers and one revolver one. I read old forum posts, and was able to get the revolver holster right on the first try. Maybe it was just dumb luck 😉

[dakotawolf]

Found a pic of the one revolver holster I've done. Notice the horizontal section of stitching in front of the frame? That it's what will stop the gun from sinking in deeper over time. The trigger guard on this revolver is much more rounded (oval-ish?) than on most semi autos would be.

[cleanview]

twin oaks....that won't be necessary but appreciate the offer.

dakota......thinks the pic and the tip are very helpfull.

I am going to draw it up to day..........see how we do......

[cleanview]

Well, Im about half way in to it. There was a time I would have been worried the whole time.

Progress is all I look for. making patterns has always been a challenge. I recently did one for a cz75b and decided to just put the gun in the paper (cardstock) pattern and study it. After a while it becomes more obvious if something is out of whack. I made an adjustment to the stichline and got after it. Best as I recall it is the first pattern that was spot on perfect from the get go.

[dakotawolf]

The stitch lines on the CZ holster look spot on. I found a revolver a little tougher to calculate stitch line placement because of the drastic difference in thickness of the frame/barrel vs the cylinder. Like you said, put it in paper and study it.

A friendly critique on the CZ holster: try not the change stitch line directions at sharp right angles (e.g. the one behind the CZ's trigger guard). I'm not sure if there is a reason rounding them, at least a little, other that it looks better. I've never seen a pro have squared off corners on a stitch line.

When I draw my pattern it has right angles, but then I round them. Typically I hold coins up to the intersection of the lines and trace the radius just until one line flows around the coin and meets the perpendicular line. The size coin you use should become apparent as you study your pattern on paper with the gun next to it.

And yes, I realize the revolver pic I posted earlier has some squared off looking stitch lines. Live and learn. 😀

[JLSleather]

Someone always going on about holster patterns. But, the 'stories" and "facts" run as wide a range as the "right" way to measure a belt. I personally don't see where the difficulty lies, except perhaps the hype created by 'professionals" trying to convince you they're doing something you can't. Seriously, some of these people will have you standing on the left foot facing northwest in the morning arguing about nylon vs poly.

Here's the short version -- to fit snugly and prevent weapon movement, the inside of the leather would be the same size as the outside of the gun.

That sounds too simple, because it IS. Amazing how many people miss that. Seriously, anyone who's ever used a real or dummy gun to form a holster SHOULD have realized that. Leather has some natural "forgiveness" built in, so it's not necessary to measure every millimeter. Some of the larger Glocks are good for examples -- since they are basically a rectangle "'this much by this much". With a revolver, it's the same idea, but instead of a flat surface you have a radius (actually, it's called cylinder because it's a cylindrical).

Now, just a bit of "tech" stuff, which is in it's own paragraph so people can bypass it if they like "Theoretically", the width of the leather for the Glock (let's use a model 19 jus for example, those seem popular these days) would be 5.1" (like a rectangle roughly 1.5" x 1.050"). In the same way, lets say that the cylinder on the Ruger is Ø 1.56" (which is close depending on machine tolerances). This makes the measurement around 4.90".

Where things sometimes get screwed up, I think, is that some forget that this is the measurement on the INSIDE of the holster. This ignores even MORE technical stuff that would be considered for higher production -- like fold lines and bend radii. For those who can't see why that matters, I don't think I can help you.

Once you have this "wrap", then belt slots / loops / sweat shields / straps / etc. can largely be whatever size and location you like (within reason).

And, structurally there is no benefit gained or lost by how sharp the stitch line turns. From a maker standpoint, it's a tad quicker to run a small curve simply because you avoid the necessity of exact stitch placement (which usually means slowing down a bit). I have a sharp turn at the tip of ALL of my belts -- never had one break there

Now then ....

Since it seems to be some type of closely guarded secret - here's yet another tip. Everybody loves to go on about how the Glock 17 and the model 22 can be made with the same dummy. Someone will chime in a second later to say thats also good for the model 31. Fair enough.

What some don't say (some don't know, others don't want to say) is that the Glock models 19, 23, and 32 are EXACTLY the same, with the exception of being about 1/2" shorter (well, officially like 16 mm). All the difference is is the muzzle end (triigger area and slide no different), so that same glock 17 mold can be used to make holsters for all 6 pistols

Oh, wait... the compact models 26, 27, 33 are ALSO the same 'around' dimensions, everywhere except the muzzle end. Those subcompacts don't have 'rails', and the base is just a tad wider - I'm talking like .03". Just the frame under the slide -- the slide itself is not different, except shorter (by about 5/8").

So now, we have a pattern that can be used for NINE pistols, simply by cutting the end longer or shorter. Due to that extra bit of 'beef' on the subcompact muzzle end, once formed it would be a tad loose at teh bottom on the other models. Basically, I mean you could get the models 22 holster to form to the 27, though a bit of stretch would make it not so great fit on teh 22 any more. BUT, if you had a 22 pattern, made the holster, and then formed it with the 27, you'd be fine -- this is my point.

[JLSleather]

[JLSleather]

Not sure what happened to the picture of the back of this one. It's a Ruger, but not the right one

[cleanview]

Very good tip about not having a sharp turn. Appreciate it, never turn down a critique (not obligated to agree with every one but always appreciate them)

I have noticed that about the glocks. I have several patterns for the above version of my holsters the accommodate more than one gun.

I carry a Bersa BP9cc and noticed how close the internals of the holster would be on a XDS and a shield. the shield I just have a mark that makes it shorter. Then molded individually they come out good.

When some one hands me a gun that is similar tor one Io have already done. I can usually trace the pattern, adjust stitch line marks as needed and the work is greatly minimalized. The more you do the easier it comes. Just trying to make each one better as we go. I keep getting handed stuff (like the revolver) and it is start form scratch all over again, but that goes better each time as well. Going to mold the revolver in question this evening. I think ?????? it is going to work out fine......time will tell

[cleanview]

Well, not bad for a first, Maybey could have been 1/8 inch looser on the barrel. The tallest sight I have ever worked around.

Hindsight, the ear is a little big and need to bring the rear slot in closer to the trigger guard.

I don't get where the retention comes from on the revolver though. It is still not 100% dry and is looser than I care for in a semi auto. Not sure what retention to expect in a revolver but this one is not snug at all.

Pointers???

Edited January 4, 2015 by cleanview

[dakotawolf]

If I want a gun to slip in and out with almost no friction (e.g. a thumb break), I let the holster dry with the gun in the holster. If I take the gun out right after wet molding, the leather shrinks a little bit and friction is greater. Usually I take them out after about 2 hours of drying. Of course it depends on how much friction you have to begin with based on stitch line placement.

As for where the retention on a revolver comes from, I assume the molding in the trigger guard, and just having stitch lines in the proper place.

[JLSleather]

Hardly quite done, but perhaps they sumthin helful init

[camano ridge]

JLS, looking good so far can't wait to see it completed.

[cleanview]

Well, here is the finished goods. My own critique....the ear is a little big and the leather had a mar just beside the snake

Edited January 7, 2015 by cleanview

[dakotawolf]

That stitch line around the gun looks pretty good. How many practice ones did you do to get it dialed in?

[camano ridge]

Cleanview, looks like it came out pretty nice.

[cleanview]

first attempt came spot on. Maybey I worried for nothing.

Thanks

[Joon1911]

IMG_442078494.jpg

Well, not bad for a first, Maybey could have been 1/8 inch looser on the barrel. The tallest sight I have ever worked around.

Hindsight, the ear is a little big and need to bring the rear slot in closer to the trigger guard.

I don't get where the retention comes from on the revolver though. It is still not 100% dry and is looser than I care for in a semi auto. Not sure what retention to expect in a revolver but this one is not snug at all.

Pointers???

Clean,

In the few revolver holsters I've made so far, most of the retention seems to come from where the leather forms around the rear end of the cylinder, so in the case of your pattern it would be on the body facing side of the holster. One thing to be aware of is that retention will become somewhat tighter when the holster is actually worn as the wing on the Avenger will draw the holster into the body. I've had to remake a holster because I was happy with the retention until I tried it on an drew the revolver ( more like tried to draw, LOL) It was clamped in so tight that I couldn't draw without significant force.