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I'm making a belt at the moment using Fiebing's black dye. I'm used to this stuff rubbing off, but I find that it looks OK when viewed on it's own, but if it's in strong light, or when viewed against a factory dyed black leather it doesn't look completely black, more a dark brown colour. Am I being picky? Does anyone have any suggestions? I've tried a little neatsfoot but it doesn't seem to have made much difference. I heard it's possible to dye the article blue first, then go black, does this work?

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Several people dye blue first then black so, yes, it will work. Haven't tried it myself. USMC black is good if you don't mind buffing till your arm is tired.

I use vinegeroon. Cheap and produces a very dark black that will never fade or rub off. There are several threads here already on production and use of roon.

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Hi, thanks for the reply, I've been looking at the vinegeroon threads, might try that. I have some brillo pads and a smallish (180g) mustard jar, will they work? How much of the brillo pad do I use? Cheers :)

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The best steel wool is found in the hardware section of most big box stores. 000 or 0000 size as it breaks down faster. Brillo pads will work just need to make sure to get ALL the soap out first.

Your canister size will depend on how much you want to make. just make sure to not tighten down the cap. Just sit it on the top the reaction between vinegar and steel will create a gas and cause the jar to explode otherwise.

Keep adding steel wool till it stops dissolving. This procedure can take several days sometimes up to two weeks. Mine did, but thats because I used almost a gallon of vinegar. Filter through a coffee filter to get any chunks left over out.

Either brush on or dip depending on what leather item your making and how much roon you made. Timing the dip/brush is something you will have to determine on your own. Results vary from person to person and batch to batch. Although, a batch a roon will last a long time.

Be sure to neutralize with a baking soda solution dip or wash. I'm still playing with the right amount to use so someone with more experience can help there.

After its dry it may be a little grey or purplish. a light coat of neatsfoot oil will bring out the full potential and add some nutrients back in that were lost in the process.

If the black is still not dark enough consider adding some really strong tea to the roon. I had some black tea that tasted like tree bark(yuck) that I left steeping for several minutes in boiling water. This produced a slightly darker black.

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Thank you, a very informative reply! I made a small batch this afternoon and will see how it goes. Out of interest, can I apply this over the Fiebings dye, or will I need to make a new belt? Either way it's not a problem.

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As long as you haven't sealed it yet you should be able to go over the black dye with your roon as it is just the same as if you were applying another dye treatment. However, you still may want to test it and being as it is a belt just test about 1 inch on the buckle end as it will be hidden from view anyway if it doesn't come out the way you want. It does sound like your initial dye application was not very heavy so it didn't get into the fiber of the leather very well. What type of leather were you using for the belt? If it is any type that is oil tanned and waxed that would limit your dye as well.

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Hi, it was just normal veg tan, usually I'd use black bridle leather for a belt but I didn't have a piece long enough. I'll try another coat and see what happens.

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I have tried a few black dyes and the only one (in my book) that gets that desired real black color is from Angelus called Jet Black. It goes on easy and buffs easy too :-)

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Thank you for that, usually I find that a lot of products mentioned on here aren't available where I am but that one is, so I may be giving it a go. Am currently trying one last coat of dye applied by pouring the dye onto the leather! Will see how that goes.

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