Oldtoolsniper Report post Posted February 13, 2015 I have a Singer 176-11 fur sewing machine. The manual calls for a 176x1 needle in sizes 4,5,6,8,9,11 or 12. I've been searching the net and can find nothing. Thanks in advance for any help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Call Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, one of our advertisers, at: 866-362-7397. Bob Kovar will either have those particular needles, or an equivalent system. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldtoolsniper Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Wiz crafts, Already placed a call and he is trying to come up with a solution for me. He has been a top notch guy to deal with on getting parts for my Adler 30-1. I figured I'd post here too, I can't be the only guy on the planet with one of those machines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 13, 2015 (edited) I did a little searching and found one dealer that shows that system 176x1 is the same as the commonly available DBx1, which is also sold as 16x257 and 1738. I use those needles in my serger and my Singer 31-15. They have a thin shank and are quite short. I know that Bob has DBx1 because I bought a bunch of them a year or so ago for my 31-15. They are available in ballpoint, sharps and leather points. The worst thing would be you might have to move the needle bar slightly if the new needles are longer or shorter than type 176x1. I may have read that information wrong. It appeared to be a needle matching chart, but isn't. So, DBx1 might not fit after all. Edited February 13, 2015 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SARK9 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 http://www.pjnovak.cz/needle-grozbeckert-292-sp392292a176x1-55nm-p-2535.html?language=en¤cy=usd Needle GROZ-BECKERT 292 SP/392/292A/176X1 55NmEquivalents: 292SP/392/292A/176X1SPI furring,thin leather,sharpes point,for very straight stitching -DC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted February 13, 2015 (edited) The needle his machine uses is about 1mm(0.40in) @ the top & the #8 I have in stock are that size all the way to the tip.They are 1&1/4" long the 16x257 are 1&1/2"long & 1.62mm @ the top. Edited February 13, 2015 by CowboyBob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldtoolsniper Report post Posted February 19, 2015 Toledo sewing "Cowboy Bob" has helped me immensely in my endeavor to get this machine running. He has found me the needles, and also help me select the servo motor for it. I should be in running order as soon as the shipper delivers. Many thanks to Bob for locating what I needed and the phone calls back and forth to make sure we had things right. 1st class service. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted February 23, 2015 Odd needles are the bane of every dealers existence. Bob is probably lucky enough to have samples of these old needles stashed away while the rest of us are left scratching our heads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldtoolsniper Report post Posted February 23, 2015 Cowboy Bob from Toledo Sewing came up with some needles and a new servo motor to run the beast as well. I'm rebuilding a table top from an old singer industrial machine to fit this machine and my needs. Being a trapper I may as well learn to sew the furs as well. This is definitely a bizarre operating machine, it uses only one thread and it loops it around the hem or edge of the two furs being sewn. I'm not sure how you lock the stitch at the beginning and end but I'm sure after I get it all working I'll figure it out. I'm betting that way back then folks learned the trade as an apprentice, the manual just tells you how to adjust and thread the machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 23, 2015 The machine should have a stitch length adjuster. If it does, set it to as close to zero as possible at the beginning and end of the stitching. Sew about 3 or 4 in place chain stitches, then turn it up to your preferred stitch length and sew to the end. Zero it again at the end, sew a few in place, and you should be locked in. Or else, use a dab of hardening glue at the start and end of the chain. Another way to lock the starting stitches is to sew one in, then pull the top thread end across the top of the skins and sew the loop over it. Locking the other end could be done by sewing past the end, pulling it out close to the feed wheels, flipping it over 180º and sewing back over the last inch of chain stitches. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites