Pre-Tapered Thread Or Unwaxed Linen?

[alexitbe]

Which do you use?

I am new to hand sewing ( Infact sewing in general) and have managed to bend 2 diamond awls already... Replacements are being shipped as we speak....

I ignored Stohlman and bought waxed linen thread...an he was right... Its not possible to taper properly.

However, I see you can buy pre-tapered polyester thread. I guess Stohlman did not have this as an option in his time. Are these any good? If so which supplier do you use?

I would prefer to get unwaxed linen thread, but cannot find a source in Germany... So buying pre tapered nylon thread might be the best solution.

Cheers

Alex

[TwinOaks]

Buy the linen and just taper it with your knife.

Incidentally, you might have better luck with the chisels if you only use them to mark the stitch spacing on thicker leathers instead of trying to punch the holes with them.

[alexitbe]

Thanks for the response...

I am having trouble getting black unwaxed linen thread in 5 cord thickness, over here in Europe...

I broke, or bent my awls, not the pricking irons.... Thank God, since they are cheaper than pricking irons...

I was using 4mm thick leather I bought from an old shoemaker. Maybe it was sole leather? Who knows, but its bloody hard.... I had to drill it with 1mm bit.

Cheers

Alex

[TwinOaks]

That sounds like the leather still had a rawhide core....it happens sometimes. Then next time you encounter really hard leather like that, try dampening the leather (after marking the stitches) to soften it.

[TexasJack]

When thread is pre-waxed, it's hard to predict how much wax will be on it. If you wax it yourself, you'll know.

[TwinOaks]

Also, if you buy unwaxed linen thread, you can dye it yourself so that it matches your work.

[Matt T]

TwinOaks, do you unwind your thread before dying? Or can you dye the whole spool at once?

[simontuntelder]

There are at least two sources for unwaxed linen thread in your neighboring country, Denmark.

Skindhuset and Laederiet.

It is possible to find in Germany with thread manufacturers like Hoogen and Gruschwitz - although both might have gone out of business. Or try googling leinenzwirn 18 (typical handsewing weight) and then 3,4 or 5 or how many plys you're after.

[TwinOaks]

When hand sewing, I typically use pieces of thread no more than 3 feet /1 meter long. If the piece requires more, splice in more thread and keep sewing. This is done because if you have to sew 150 stitches, the thread nearest the needle will have gone through the leather that many times. At that point, it's picked up a little bit of a dirty look, which I suspect is from tannins in the leather, oil from hands, some dust in the room....anything. But the point is that the thread starts looking worse after a certain amount of stitching. Combine that with how easy it is to splice in a new piece and there's no reason to keep sewing with ratty thread. I mention the 3' as a maximum length - it the thread looks bad/ratty/worn after only 30 stitches, it's time to splice in a new piece. The same applies to lacing.

So to answer the specific question, only dye what's needed at the time. Put a little dye in a small container, pull the thread through it, or just submerge it, then pull the thread through a sponge or paper towels. Let it dry, wipe off any dry particles (just like buffing) and wax it.

[alexitbe]

Sorry to have gone silent... I seem to have forgotten to subscribe.

Simon, thank you for the information on where to purchase what I am looking for. I will go and have a look.

I have already bought some braided polyester thread for my sewing machine, but I now need something for hand sewing.

Twinoaks: I appreciate your advice. I will give it a go with linen thread.

Is it possible to handsew with manmade thread and still be able to taper the ends? Stohlman is very particular about tapering the ends and even specifies uwaxed linen thread

Cheers

ALex