Adler 267-373 Vs Seiko Sth-8Bl

[Ken B]

So, I'm having a difficult time understanding why the Adler 267-373 is twice as much money as the made in Japan Seiko sth-8bl? They're both spec'd the same, they both run 210 thread, 3/8" lift, etc, etc .... why the price difference ,and why buy one over the other?

It seems to me the Seiko has much more going for it. Aside from 1/2 the cost, there's also all the presser feet and parts available for it, and it's made in Japan.

I'm sure I must be missing something here. If someone can help me to understand why one machine is twice as much, and why you would buy the Adler over the Seiko, I'd appreciate your insight!

Particularly, because Aristan sells a modified 267 that I've seen sew an honest 1/2" of leather, on 277 thread. Even still, I'm having a difficult time justifying double the price.

Thanks for the input!

Edited March 3, 2015 by Ken B

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Ken,

Just to get the discussion started here, you seem to be asking about 30 different questions here, all going in different directions. Ironically, you seem to be answering all of your own questions as if you are putting them down on a plus/minus list. Are you able to demo both machines if possible? BTW, the formerly made by Durkopp Adler 267-373 has not been made in Germany in over ten years. It is now officially discontinued by DAP, no stock, and now is being 'replaced' with the Pfaff 1245. Hope this helps, both are good machines for what they are intended for.

[Ken B]

Hi Greg, thanks for replying.

Yes, I have demo both machines. Both seem the same, same specs, but one is twice as much. Why is that?

I'm asking because I must be missing something.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

I offer and sell both the Seiko STH-8BLD-3 and just sold my last Durkopp Adler 267 shipped from DAP America that was already sold before we got them. The best answer to your question I can give is that historically top load machines with vertical axis hooks have always been more expensive than bottom load horizontal hook machines. Across the board from mfg. to mfg. The bottom line is what you pay has a direct correlation to my cost, if you will. In some cases the margin on the higher priced machine can be less than on a less expensive machine. I can also tell you that just because a machine costs you more, it does not mean that a dealer like myself would profit more. Thinking this could maybe be a mistake. Good luck, both are really good machines and I think you'll be happy with either make and model.

[Ken B]

Hey thanks, Gregg! Very helpful.

[Ole South]

As luck would have it... I just got this today.

[shadowryder]

lucky man !!!!

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

I personally like the 267s models a lot. Adler has tons of parts from what I understand, so I think support for this machine should be good for a long while, in addition to the knockoff machines that produce non genuine parts as well.

[Ole South]

I have hook issue maybe. After the hook catches thread and about 1/3 the way around, the thread loop pulls tight then snaps around and catches again between the external pawl and shuttle before snapping through and finishing the lock. It happens even when I bypass the thread tensioner and regardless of thread. I'm turning the hand wheel by hand. I've removed the feed dogs and needle plate but haven't pulled the hook assy out yet. (Just found out how this morning) I've cleaned everything and checked for burrs. I'll pull the hook assy this evening.

Btw are the 2 little washers on the back of the thread tension assy (holding front and back plates together) fiber or soft like an O-ring? (Sorry, I didn't make note of their p/n)

Thanks Greg, the manuals on your website for the Adlers are a life saver!!! Seriously!!

Edited March 4, 2015 by Ole South

[Ole South]

Sorry for hi-jacking this thread... if a moderator wants to split it it's okay by me.

KenB, after working on an Adler and an older Seiko manufactured Consew recently I'd have to say hands down the Adler is worth more. Better metal, better castings, better machining, outside you may not see it but inside you sure can.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Thanks Greg, the manuals on your website for the Adlers are a life saver!!! Seriously!!

No problem, Durkopp Adler has them and many more on their website, the do a pretty good job of providing info on their machines, even older ones.

[Ole South]

I just wish the timing procedures were easier to follow :'(

They seem to intermix the sub classes a lot.

[Trox]

I have hook issue maybe. After the hook catches thread and about 1/3 the way around, the thread loop pulls tight then snaps around and catches again between the external pawl and shuttle before snapping through and finishing the lock. It happens even when I bypass the thread tensioner and regardless of thread. I'm turning the hand wheel by hand. I've removed the feed dogs and needle plate but haven't pulled the hook assy out yet. (Just found out how this morning) I've cleaned everything and checked for burrs. I'll pull the hook assy this evening.

Btw are the 2 little washers on the back of the thread tension assy (holding front and back plates together) fiber or soft like an O-ring? (Sorry, I didn't make note of their p/n)

Thanks Greg, the manuals on your website for the Adlers are a life saver!!! Seriously!!

Hi, have you adjusted the bobbin case opener? that allows the thread to pass true the narrow gap between bobbin case and needle plate?

I have a DA 267 990056 -373 with Efka DC 1600 (silver color) and I`m very happy with that machine. I was new (unused) when I got about 6-7 years ago and both machine and motor has preformed flawlessly. Good to know there are plenty of part available for it. That is, If it ever would need any; It still runs just like new.

I`m looking for a DA 269 (cylinderbed) to replace my Pfaff 345. I like the 345, but it has no hook safety-clutch, so it often requires re timing. Those DA 269 are still very popular and hard to find used. If anybody know of a good one (preferable north of Europe) please let me know.

Thanks

Tor

[Ole South]

Trox, I've started a thread for my Adler http://leatherworkers.net/forum/index.php?showtopic-62230

Yeah, that was the second part of the original problem but after removing the hook and cleaning all the grime away, the opener/lifter began working properly. Looks like the previous owner was trying to use and gave me the wrong needles for the machine.