Tallbald Report post Posted March 13, 2015 I'm new to making in-the-waistband concealment holsters, having designed several and had good results. I use them myself. The spring steel belt clips I use are from a large retailer and I'm happy with their strength and performance. The issue I've found is that (and I wondered if this would occur) the steel clip is hard on the nice Resolene finish of my gun belt, leaving some minor scuffs that over time I bet will turn worse. Is it just the nature of the beast? Is there an approach to using maybe contact cemented 2 ounce leather to pad the inside of the steel clip where it meets the front surface of my belt? Thanks. Don. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted March 13, 2015 I can see two things being involved with this. First is the steel belt clip. In order to perform its function the clip must be strong enough to hold and contoured to fit the belt pretty closely. That means that it will always apply pressure (and possible abrasion) to the leather surfaces when being put on and taken off, as well as during use. Adding some type of padding will affect the fit to the belt, and is likely to wear and deteriorate with repeated use, so might not be the best solution. Second is the Resolene finish, which is a water-based acrylic lacquer. The acrylics are relatively durable and can provide a pleasing finish with minimal effort, but they will scratch and abrade fairly easily and these markings are very visible. There are other finishing products and methods that are less subject to abrasion and display the effects less, such as wax-based formulas. These can require more time and effort to apply, and may not be capable of the high gloss possible with Resolene, but may be better for the purpose. Touch-ups and regular maintenance can also be done to mitigate minor surface wear, which is seldom possible with the acrylics unless one wishes to deglaze and completely refinish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George B Report post Posted March 13, 2015 Just the nature of the beast. Steel meets leather and scratches, mars or damages the softer leather. Anodized steel clips while cheap have sharp edges and can not only tear up a belt but clothing as well. Powder coated helps quit a bit, they have smoother edges and surfaces but being steel will still scratch leather. I offer powder coated clips or leather strap with snap that goes over the belt and under the belt to snap in the middle of the belt, similar to what El Paso Saddlery uses. I charge accordingly depending on the materials, costs and time. I would be concerned that leather coating the clip surface would degrade the ability of the clip to hold when the weapon is drawn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tallbald Report post Posted March 13, 2015 Hi and I appreciate both your insightful answers. The clips I use have shown very good durability on other clip applications for at least three years. They are chrome plated I believe, but do have crisp edges where stamped out. Since I don't make holsters for sale, but for my own use only right now, I have some options. One, is just to tolerate the nature of the beast, touching up my belt as needed. Too late to change finishes on it as I'd prefer to simply make another. Two would be to experiment with a small dyed-to-match section attached to my belt itself that prevents damage to the underlying belt the same way some folks put a "hood bra" on their prized vehicle. I just don't feel good about synthetic clips, referring as on my guns, metal. Thanks again so much. Don. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted March 14, 2015 You could also build leather loops with pull the dot snaps. Plenty secure and I actually prefer them to metal clips for my personal holster. FWIW, the molded nylon clips should be plenty strong too. Kydex, not so much. Kydex does not take to heavy flexing very well. Kydex clips are basically disposable. That said, metal on leather will scratch eventually. No way around it. They can be rough on leather seats too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigpaws Report post Posted March 16, 2015 Tallbald, You could always cover the clips with leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tallbald Report post Posted March 30, 2015 Again, thanks so much for the replies. Bigpaws that's downright beautiful the way you covered the clip. I may though simply accept the nature of the beast, and make sure I don't slide the clip along the belt to adjust it. The clips I use secure my holsters well in the original position, and I think I need to position my holster correctly to begin with each time I put it on. Don. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RMB Custom Leather Report post Posted March 30, 2015 I tried these the other day and like them. http://www.bluegunstore.com/FOMIClip1-1/2.aspx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigpaws Report post Posted March 30, 2015 Tallbald, Covering the clips with leather is a bit of a pain for sure, but it's really not that difficult. I got tired of scuffing my belts and cover all of my clips now (prefer not to use them unless no alternative, or customer pref.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joon1911 Report post Posted March 30, 2015 Bigpaws, Would you mind sharing your basic process for covering your clips? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bigpaws Report post Posted April 1, 2015 JohnOK, Here's the process that I came up with....I'm sure there are other ways of accomplishing the same thing: My leather preference is for kangaroo, but I've also used veg tan cow with good results. Essentially, you're making a partially stitched sleeve which is finish stitched after you slip it over the two problem areas--the "U" turn in the clip, and the turned up tip of the clip. Using the clip as a template more or less, you lay out your stitch lines and cut the two pieces, leaving as little edge margin as you find attractive/functional. It gets a little tricky at the tip portion, as the turned up part needs a little extra room to slide through. Stitch just enough of the sleeve to get past the "U" portion of the clip, leaving enough thread on both ends to finish the back side after sliding over the clip. Wet the leather enough to make it pretty flexible but not soggy. You need for it to stretch just a bit to accommodate the turned up tip (it should shrink down to fit as it dries and after you form it with the small dowel). Slip the sleeve over the clip and finish stitching both sides down the back portion of the clip. Use a small dowel to smooth everything out and conform to the clip contours. I have done this both with and without adhesive....my preference is to glue the clip to the sleeve, but you have to work fast while the glue still acts as a lubricant and hasn't started to set yet. With no glue, I grease up the clip with saddle soap or Lexol glycerine cleaner to help reduce friction. Hope this doesn't sound too scattered! If you have any questions, pm me and I will be glad to walk you through it. Rick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites