Members badger Posted November 16, 2008 Members Report Posted November 16, 2008 What is the difference between 100% pure neatsfoot oil and 'blended' oil? Should I use either for specific purposes? What do I need to watch out for? I use the 100% Tandy stuff right now. Thanks, Karl Quote
Members Elegant Posted November 17, 2008 Members Report Posted November 17, 2008 A "neat" is a beef animal, and this oil used to be made out of the oil from boiled cow shins, hence the name. Now it is made from a variety of animal fats. It is heavy oil that has a residue that can attract dust. It does oxidize and can embrittle the leather. If mixed with mineral oils it can break down stitching or adhesive materials. It can stain lighter leather and has been know to become rancid quickly. Some cheaper neatsfoot oil is made with added lard and still called Pure Neatsfoot Oil. If mineral oil or other petroleum product is added then it is called a Compound Neatsfoot Oil or Prime Neatsfoot Oil. As a professional bootblack, leather care specialist and leather crafter I do not use Neatsfoot oil for anything. Quote
MADMAX22 Posted November 17, 2008 Report Posted November 17, 2008 What do you use elegant, just wondering. Quote
Members badger Posted November 17, 2008 Author Members Report Posted November 17, 2008 Many thanks for the explanation. I'd also be interested to know what you use. Many thanks, Karl Quote
Ambassador abn Posted November 17, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted November 17, 2008 Elegant's explanation is a good one, but seems to overly emphasize the negatives of neatsfoot oil. Many folks who want a leather conditioner that share Elegant's concerns use Lexol. Lexol used to be my preference as well, until I started using Tandy's Eco-Flo dyes and discovered that Lexol lifts the color. I've gone back to using 100% pure neatsfoot. Lightly used, you won't experience any problems. Best, -Alex Quote
Members badger Posted November 17, 2008 Author Members Report Posted November 17, 2008 Thanks a lot guys. Karl Quote
Members bustedlifter Posted November 17, 2008 Members Report Posted November 17, 2008 I like to use a good quality motor oil, preferably racing or motorcycle, but that's just my preference. Quote
Members Elegant Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 What do I use? That depends on the tanning method of the leather, the finish, what the article is, use etc. General Examples: Oiltanned Leather (harness boots, some heavy leather coats): Huberd's Boot Grease Chrometanned leather (garments, uphoulstery etc): Aussie Leather Conditioner, Huberd's, Pecard's VegTan: Aussie, Huberds or Pecards Exotics: Pecard's Exotic Leather Dressing I prefer non-animal based products, not for the stereotypical reasons (I am a carnivore..we hunt....vegetarian is an ancient native american word meaning 'bad hunter') but because animal fats are not as stable as other products, tend to go rancid quicker and are a good medium for bacteria growth. The only animal based product I personally use for some leathers is a dubbins but the fats are rendered in dubbins which makes them more stable and less likely to be a medium for bacteria. Bee's do not qualify as animals in this case as beeswax is very stable. It's difficut to suggest a particular conditioning product without knowing what it is being used on. Quote
Members Elegant Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 Other Comments LEXOL I do not use Lexol products. These products have been emulsified and the company will not provide information as to how they do this. Until I know what emulsification process is used I will stick to other brand products. MOTOR OIL Most engine oils contain anti-acid ingredients, stabalizers and detergent agents. In addition, some contain metallic addatives. Why put all those extra damaging things into your leather? ECO-FLO DYE This is a low VOC (Volatile organic compound) product. It contains glycol ethers which do not evaporate and volitalize like other dyes. The glycol ethers don’t allow the carbon black to penetrate the leather fully before the dye dries so the carbon black remains somewhat suspended. Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 LEXOLI do not use Lexol products. These products have been emulsified and the company will not provide information as to how they do this. Until I know what emulsification process is used I will stick to other brand products. Have you tried it to see what results you get? Kate Quote
Members bustedlifter Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 Other CommentsMOTOR OIL Most engine oils contain anti-acid ingredients, stabalizers and detergent agents. In addition, some contain metallic addatives. Why put all those extra damaging things into your leather? That's why I use racing or motorcycle oil.I usually put a light coat or two on a piece before I antique or highlight then I use Aussie conditioner as a final finish. I've been doing this for awhile and the pieces hold up quite well. Quote
MADMAX22 Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 What do I use? That depends on the tanning method of the leather, the finish, what the article is, use etc.General Examples: Oiltanned Leather (harness boots, some heavy leather coats): Huberd's Boot Grease Chrometanned leather (garments, uphoulstery etc): Aussie Leather Conditioner, Huberd's, Pecard's VegTan: Aussie, Huberds or Pecards Exotics: Pecard's Exotic Leather Dressing I prefer non-animal based products, not for the stereotypical reasons (I am a carnivore..we hunt....vegetarian is an ancient native american word meaning 'bad hunter') but because animal fats are not as stable as other products, tend to go rancid quicker and are a good medium for bacteria growth. The only animal based product I personally use for some leathers is a dubbins but the fats are rendered in dubbins which makes them more stable and less likely to be a medium for bacteria. Bee's do not qualify as animals in this case as beeswax is very stable. It's difficut to suggest a particular conditioning product without knowing what it is being used on. Thanks for the info. Quote
Members badger Posted November 18, 2008 Author Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 Yes indeed, Thank you very much for the information. I've been experimenting with undyed Russet for a while now. I've lately been testing Fiebing's leather stain suspended in Neatsfoot oil . The results are pretty good. The oil takes the stain into the leather so it isn't just sitting on the surface. Stil working on it.... Cheers, Karl Quote
Members Elegant Posted November 19, 2008 Members Report Posted November 19, 2008 Have you tried it to see what results you get?Kate I've used it a few times in the past but not enough to get any viable results. Quote
Members HarryB Posted November 20, 2008 Members Report Posted November 20, 2008 (edited) Old wives tale: a rat will swim a river backwards to get to a saddle that has pure neatsfoot oil on it. If you have leathergoods available to rats and mice, they will eat it, period. There is little difference between pure and compound. Be sure to shy away from cheap compounds; they are usually mixed with used motor oil, mostly old and sometimes burnt. You will never get the burnt odor out of your leather! I only use neatsfoot oil on unfinished vegetable leathers. Anything else is questionable. Edited November 20, 2008 by HarryB Quote
Members badger Posted November 20, 2008 Author Members Report Posted November 20, 2008 Thanks very much for the information everyone. Cheers, Karl Quote
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