Armor In Progress (Fore-Arm Guards)

[Squirrelly66]

These are the 1st pieces to a modified Orcish Armor set from the video game Skyrim. These are not quite fully finished but I had to post progress so far. These are done with 9-10 oz leather. I'm using eco-flo water based dye. I still have the fur liner and some resin cast pieces to add to these. This is for a cos-play costume for a convention in August.

[Grey Drakkon]

That is some slick work right there. Only thing is it's not believable as orcish armor. Not a speck of blood or gore on it.

[spacedog]

Nice work. I hope you update us with the final product.

[DJole]

I have had Eco-Flo dyes bleed when they got wet. What are you putting on these as a water-proof finish?

[Squirrelly66]

From what I've experienced so far with this particular water based dye is that it bleeds when it comes in contact with anything wet, So far all I've used on these gauntlets is leather balm. Since I've not added all the final stuff to them yet. (working on it, had to order some worbla's and apoxie sculpt) I haven't fully waterproof sealed them yet. I'm looking at several products, resolene being one.

I experimented when adding the straps and buckles by dyeing them (let them sit for 24 hrs) then rubbing in saddle soap (to set the dye ,so to speak) got some bleed from this. When I leather balmed them though I did not get the incredible rub off bleeding as I got doing the main parts. There still was some bleeding but it was not as bad.

I'm also looking at possible hot wax submersion with a 50/50 carnuba and bee's wax mix. For water proofing.

The bleed thru is a concern and I'm starting to experiment with scrap leather and different products to see what will stop this.

I may go to using oil based dyes if I can't alleviate this problem.

I've asked the same question to other people about the bleeding when wet and I've not gotten a answer other than I'm doing wrong, which is a load of horse crap.

Hope this helps in some way. Feel free to message me if any question's.

I'll keep it updated here as I figure it out.

Thanks, Michael

[Thornale]

I'm also looking at possible hot wax submersion with a 50/50 carnuba and bee's wax mix. For water proofing.

That will definitely solve the bleeding problem, however, it will create a hundred new issues (loosing the color into a brownish/blackish color, very little flexibility ...)

About your dye, do you use Eco Flo or Eco Flo Pro ? In both cases you have to buff the leather after dying in order to remove the excess pigment.

I, for instance, use the Eco Flo Pro and haven't had any bleeding issues. Heres my dying routine.

Firstly I case the leather (I have found that the dye spread more evenly on cased leather than on dry). Then I apply my dye with a sponge or a cloth. When its dried I buff the leather. Finally apply the finish compounds which depends of the destination of the item. For armours and outdoors gears I like to finish with several coat of neatsfoot oil (with a good buff between each application), and then a home made cream made from neatsfoot oil and caranuba wax.

Edited April 10, 2015 by Thornale

[Squirrelly66]

I'm very aware what wax submersion will do, I've hardened armor this way before. I DO NOT bring the wax to a boil, soaking it in WARM wax does not cause the shrinkage that boiling wax or boiling water hardening does. With using just warm wax you also will keep some flexibility. It will cause some darkening of the item though.

I appreciate you dying routine though.

I also buffed the crap out of it after dyeing, I buffed it vigorously off an on for 2 days before applying any finish.

Thanks , Michael