Which Sewing Machine Is Best For Making Purses

[Mariel]

Hi everyone!!

So excited I found this group. I'm new to sewing leather and have found great information on this website. I have located 2 sewing machines locally and I'm torn on which one I should purchase. The Consew 255b or the Singer 111. The consew is about 82 miles away from where I am but I can drive there if it's worth it and the singer is about 10 miles away from where I live. They are both asking $800 for them. Not sure if that is a fair market value.

Your advice is greatly appreciated!

[Wizcrafts]

For bags and purses, I strongly recommend that you buy a cylinder arm, compound feed, walking foot machine. The narrower the left side of the arm, the better. The thread capacity should reach #138 bonded thread, which requires a #22 or #23 needle. The lift of the alternating feet should be high enough to sew into 3/8" of material. This usually means that the static lift of the fully raised feet would have to be at least 1/8 inch more, or 1/2 inch.

You may have trouble finding old machines with these specs (or not). Something made during the last 10 years should meet these specs. Our member-dealers, who advertise here (see banners), all offer a medium duty walking foot cylinder arm machine meeting or exceeding the aforementioned minimums.

[Mariel]

Thank you Wizcrafts! I was hoping you would answer! I was reading your post about sewing machines last night which made me sign for an account here!!

So the 2 sewing machines I had listed would not be best for what I will be using it for. There are other machines in my area that people are selling. I just don't know what I am looking at.

Here is the where I am looking...

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=231&nocache=1&search=Industrial+sewing+machines&zip=&distance=&min_price=&max_price=&type=&x=0&y=0

[Wizcrafts]

Most of the machines you will see advertised in local (Craigslist, etc) ads will be flat bed machines. Upholstery shops use them exclusively. But, cylinder arm machines are specialty items that don't normally appear outside of garment factories or custom builder shops. It is possible for a cylinder arm machine to be retrofitted with a table attachment for flat work, but not vise-verse.

A flat bed machine will sew your seams inside out and do a fine job. But, once the bag/purse takes on a shape, it gets harder to sew it on a flat table.

[SantaFeMarie]

For bags and purses, I strongly recommend that you buy a cylinder arm, compound feed, walking foot machine. The narrower the left side of the arm, the better. The thread capacity should reach #138 bonded thread, which requires a #22 or #23 needle. The lift of the alternating feet should be high enough to sew into 3/8" of material. This usually means that the static lift of the fully raised feet would have to be at least 1/8 inch more, or 1/2 inch.

You may have trouble finding old machines with these specs (or not). Something made during the last 10 years should meet these specs. Our member-dealers, who advertise here (see banners), all offer a medium duty walking foot cylinder arm machine meeting or exceeding the aforementioned minimums.

Could you list a few brand names and models that fit this criteria?

And, if you wouldn't mind: I've been offered a chance to buy a two-year-old Campbell Lockstitch for $4.5K. What do you think of it for use with lightweight leather personal items such as bags, satchels, and wallets?

[Wizcrafts]

Could you list a few brand names and models that fit this criteria?

And, if you wouldn't mind: I've been offered a chance to buy a two-year-old Campbell Lockstitch for $4.5K. What do you think of it for use with lightweight leather personal items such as bags, satchels, and wallets?

Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew, Nick-O-Sew, Consew, Juki, Chandler, Adler, Pfaff, and lesser tier brands like Tacsew and Econosew - all have medium duty, cylinder arm, walking foot machines capable of sewing light to medium leather, vinyl, cloth and webbing projects. The first four advertise with us, thus supporting the very existence of the forum. The remainder are manufacturers whose brands are sold by industrial sewing machine dealers. You should contact our member-dealers and see what they have to offer that will match your needs perfectly.

As for the second part of your question, you need to do some more research about the types of machines being offered by sellers. A Campbell Lockstitch is a needle and awl machine for sewing extremely heavy leather, like harnesses, saddles, holsters, sheathes,horse tack and such. I know how to operate a Campbell-Randall needle and awl stitcher, due to having decades of experience in this business and being a former owner of a similar machine. I cannot even begin to imagine a newbie to leather sewing operating such a machine.

To answer the last part of your question: not likely. The Campbell Lockstitch may be technically "capable" of sewing fairly thin leather (or Biothane), with the proper combination of thread, needle and awl sizes, but a total readjustment would be needed, as they are normally setup for thick, hard leather (or Biothane) and very large thread. They can easily penetrate plywood luggage and are known to sew through copper pennies You are not going to sew purses and wallets with 6 cord linen thread run through a wax pot, or #415 or #554 bonded polyester that is almost 1mm in diameter. This is way more machine than your work calls for.

Most of your projects will only require a thread with a tensile strength of between 11 and 22 pounds pull. That encompasses our typical bonded sizes 69 through 138.

[Hockeymender]

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61804

This is the type of machine that would be best overall to make purses with.

[SantaFeMarie]

Thanks, Wiz, very helpful. Do you have any doubts about a newbie learning to use any of the other machines? I haven't sewn since Home Ec a long time ago. I don't live near any of the suppliers your mention so I'm not going to be able to get an in-person demo, I will have to rely on the documentation that comes with the machine.

Also: any thoughts about stitch quality? I know from your other posts that you prefer a square drive machine.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks, Wiz, very helpful. Do you have any doubts about a newbie learning to use any of the other machines? I haven't sewn since Home Ec a long time ago. I don't live near any of the suppliers your mention so I'm not going to be able to get an in-person demo, I will have to rely on the documentation that comes with the machine.

Also: any thoughts about stitch quality? I know from your other posts that you prefer a square drive machine.

A machine can be shipped to you mounted onto a pallet, on a truck. The table and motor will be strapped separately from the machine head and supplied accessories. Assembly does not take a rocket scientist. However, using an industrial sewing machine is different than the machines you used in home Ec, or see at Joann's.

If you anticipate buying a walking foot machine, which is very likely (whether it be flat bed or cylinder arm), search for a local upholstery shop. Ask them if you can see how they operate and control their walking foot sewing machines. Ask if you can try one out. They may even offer to sell one they plan on replacing soon.

If there aren't any upholstery shops nearby, look for a tailor or alterations shop. Sometimes they keep a walking foot machine for heavy denim, leather and fur repairs and alterations. Ask for a demo.

The most basic tip I can give is to hold back the starting threads as you begin to sew. Failure to at least secure the top starting thread usually results in a birds nest around the bobbin and a halt to your sewing until it is cleared. If that happens, and if the machine has a safety clutch, the machine can be easily returned to service after removing the tangled thread. If it is a less expensive machine, or a very old model that has no safety clutch, the timing could be thrown off by the thread jam.

Also, try to choose a machine with reverse and easily controlled stitch lengths. Old walking foot machines had odd methods of adjusting the stitch length than may be difficult to set accurately.

You will get what you pay for. If you spend $500 or less for a complete machine and motor/table, it may not have modern bells and whistles. It will probably have a clutch motor that runs fast and may be hard to feather to slow it down. A servo motor makes it easier to control slow speeds and is usually used in leather sewing. Adding one on will cost you both time and money.

Rectangular drive is from Juki. Prepare to spend serious money for one. You won't regret it though if you need to sew light weight material, like linings.

[SantaFeMarie]

Thanks, Wiz. Which of the sponsors sell Jukis? Also, is the DNU-1541 the model you recommend? Is it flatbed only, or is it available in a cylinder arm configuration?

Edited April 2, 2015 by SantaFeMarie