wildrose Report post Posted November 20, 2008 What causes spots like this? I'm using eco-flo's new gel, with the recommended shene top coat. Sometimes the spots show after staining, sometimes not 'til the shene. I'm going to try to cover them with a light spot or two of the gel, but it'll likely rub right off. Is it just something I have to tell the customer "oh leather accepts dyes differently/nothing I could do" ? Is there something I can do? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted November 20, 2008 Are you deglazing the leather? Rubbing alcohol will take off the waxes or oils from processing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tashabear Report post Posted November 20, 2008 That big spot looks like a fingerprint. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted November 20, 2008 The spots that show during or after staining are probably where something oily or waxy got on the leather and acted as a resist to the stain. Some hides I've gotten have come that way. If you can spot those areas before staining, using some kind of leather cleaner or deglazer takes them off, but sometimes they are almost impossible to see before the stain goes on. I've also gotten spots like that by inadvertently touching the leather with something oily or waxy on my hands. The ones that show up after the shene, not sure. But I have sometimes gotten spots like that while applying a sealing finish, when a drop of the finish gets onto the leather. If I let it dry completely before buffing, it's usually okay. But if I don't notice it, and start buffing before it is completely dry, it lifts stain off. I don't know if that is the case, here, but that is one way that can happen. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildrose Report post Posted November 20, 2008 So should I put rubbing alcohol on it before staining? Is that it, or is there something else I should use? BTW, I also thought the big spots look like fingerprints. They're at least on the BACK of the binder. I'm more upset about the "freckles" on the front. I have one more binder to do, and I'd rather not have this happen again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carr52 Report post Posted November 20, 2008 So should I put rubbing alcohol on it before staining? Is that it, or is there something else I should use?BTW, I also thought the big spots look like fingerprints. They're at least on the BACK of the binder. I'm more upset about the "freckles" on the front. I have one more binder to do, and I'd rather not have this happen again. I'm wondering the same thing Rose. I know the peice I'm working with right now will have spots show up if I dont do something. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildrose Report post Posted November 20, 2008 I talked to someone else today who said NO WAY on the rubbing alcholol, that it would do nasty stuff to the leather and harm the staining process....so now I'm not sure what to do. In the mean time, I've assembled and hole punched this binder and am stitching it. I figure if the customer doesn't like it, I'll find somewhere for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crystal Report post Posted November 21, 2008 Hi Holly- I used Fiebing's deglazer on my last project - had alot of finger prints and tape stickies on it. Cleaned up well and the Fiebing's dye went on pretty even. I had a class with Jeff Mosby and he said he uses Naptha for cleaning. I haven't tried that. Crystal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted November 21, 2008 The idea is to wipe any oily/waxy stuff off the surface. You don't soak the leather. Tandy sells a deglazing solution, but may people use acetone, denatured alcohol (ethanol), or isopropyl alcohol ('rubbing alcohol') Fiebling's deglazing stuff is ethyl acetate. Chemically, they are all intended to do the same thing: dissolve waxes and oils to wipe them off the leather and then evaporate quickly. After re-reading this thread, I picked up on the spot showing up after shene. Are you wiping off the excess dye before coating it? The spot may have been there all along but you just couldn't see it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildrose Report post Posted November 21, 2008 Here are pics of the project with the stitching almost done. I decided to go ahead and complete it. My husband Tim said it looks "aged" and that I should only say something to the customer if she asks (at which point I'll say "leather accepts dyes differently and sometimes spotting occurs" or something to that affect) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KimRulien Report post Posted November 23, 2008 Here are pics of the project with the stitching almost done. I decided to go ahead and complete it. My husband Tim said it looks "aged" and that I should only say something to the customer if she asks (at which point I'll say "leather accepts dyes differently and sometimes spotting occurs" or something to that affect) I like the aged look to be honest! I think it is awsome. I had to dye some buffalo that was already dyed brown, and I wanted it black...I did not have acetone to use so I tried fingernail polish remover (cheap dollar store version) I did a quick rub down and it worked really well and accepted the black dye with out it pooling on the surface... Probably not a profesional 1st choice, but it did work and was scented of lemon LOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildrose Report post Posted November 24, 2008 Sometimes the not-by-the-book routes come out looking and smelling great! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
