No Idea Where To Begin

[smirak]

So, I can spell leather, and that's about it. I need something to occupy my hands...

Anyway, want to get started making some things... (In order of what I perceive to be easier to harder)...

1) business card case

2) bifold wallet with ID pocket and bill storage, so no "card wallet" style

3) gun belt 1 1/2 wide and maybe double thickness?

4) OWB pancake holster

5) purse for the wife

I live in west central NH about middle of the state on the NH/VT border. We have no leather supply stores anywhere near..,nearest Tandy is near Boston 2-3 hours away. So, all my stuff will be Internet orders.

Tools I think I need...

Stitching groover

Awl haft and blades (which ones?)

Needles/thread

Over stitcher?

Knife of some sort

Edge beveler

Hole punch(es)

Hammer of some sort

Dye goods - have no idea what to get...

Slicker for burnishing

Leather - I have no idea what leather to get...I know I'm not going to (initially) spend like $300 on a whole hide (if that's what it's even called). I see all the different weights/thicknesses, aides, saddles, shoulders, etc...

Is there a "beginners guide" somewhere in this forum/site I can reference?

Thanks much,

Kevin

[MonicaJacobson]

Kevin, there really should be a beginner guide. As it is, most people have to use the forum search function and peruse through for a few hours. You could try "tool list" as a search word.

Are you planning to buy dyed leather or undyed leather? You don't have to do the whole dye-your-own straight off... or you could just leave your first few experiments undyed. Lots of people like the look anyway.

Unfortunately, a lot of the supplies are one choice out of many. There are so many choices, you just have to do some reading about each particular topic, pick one of the options, and try it. A lot of it comes down to preference.

You should consider getting a pricking iron rather than a over-stitching wheel. You'd need a 2 prong (for going around corners) and a four (or more) prong. You'd want to get 6-7spi (stitches per inch) for bag size or 8 spi or so for wallets. Here's an example of one, but which one to buy is another debate in itself.

I use Fiebings spirit dyes. Some people use Angelus. I think most people like them much better than Tandy eco-flo. You can dilute them with lacquer thinner for color variation and mix your own colors as well.

If you want pre-dyed leather, try MaverickLeatherCompany. They sell at a ridiculously good price. Springfield Leather will cut smaller quantities for you. It works better to call these companies than to order through the website, from what I've tried. If you talk to them, ask them about the leather and its quality, and tell them what you want to make, they really try to make sure you get what you need, and they are very upfront about the leather. If you place your order through the internet things just get processed and you may or may not get what you were hoping to get. The worst I've ever gotten was on par with Tandy, not below it.

You also want some saddle soap or beeswax/paraffin for burnishing.

Good luck,

Monica

[smirak]

Thanks for the reply Monica...funny thing...I move to NH from Buford...

Anyway, for the first one, I'm most likely just going to make a small business card holder. I'm in corp America and take business cards with me everywhere. Currently, they are in the "nasty" plastic case that comes with the purchase of like 10 million business cards. I'm looking for something that will hold about 16-20 business cards. I want it to be bi-fold wallet style where each side would hold 8-10 cards and fold in the middle. I'm not sure what I actually want, but I do know what I don't want. I'll most likely buy a pc of leather already dyed from springfield for this project, but don't know which weight/thickness. I am thinking I want this case to be lines or double thickness as I don't necessarily like the "fuzzy knap" on the underside of some leather, but have no idea what that's called or even if I need to worry about it.

[MonicaJacobson]

Small world! I don't know what possessed you - maybe it was the allergies.

It depends on how thick you want it. Some people like ultra thick, some people want it more like 5 - 6 oz. Some people want almost paper thin. I think if you talk to the people at Springfield and tell them about your concerns about the back, they'll be able to give you some ideas of would wouldn't be too expensive, but would look nice. At Maverick right now there's some leather that is finished smooth on both sides if you're really concerned about it. However, Maverick will not cut for you. They can be half the price of Springfield, though. There are several kinds of leather that are very smooth on the back.

[byggyns]

For wallet / card case, the thickness most people like is 4-5 oz. for the outside and 2-3 for the inside. Like Monica said, it really is personal preference.

You may want to think about wet molding the inner pocket if you want to fit that many business cards into each side. For wet molding, you want to make sure the leather you buy is not pre-finished and is just dyed veg tan.

The "fuzz" on the back (flesh) side is really a function of leather quality. The supplier will be able to get you the correct quality for what you want. Typically better quality (more expensive) leather will have a flesh side with fewer issues. The flesh side can be burnished like the edges to make it smoother. Herman Oak brand is a good one to get high quality hides.

When you start tackling a holster, you want to have a much thicker leather. I use 8-9 oz for my pancake holsters with an additional stiffener piece at the mouth. For a fold-over style, I will normally add a liner of 2-3 oz. The holster section of this forum is a great resource for information and design ideas. Again, because you have to wet form a holster, you must have veg tan without any finishes. Pre-dyed is OK.

I'm working on my first belt with 8-9oz for the top layer & 2-3 for the lining. I haven't finished that one yet, so I don't know about performance yet. I have seen some people use a double thickness of 6-7 or 8-9, and others just use a single layer of 10-12. For a true gun belt, I think you need at least a total thickness of 12 oz. If you want to tool & decorate it, you will want undyed veg tan.

For purses & bags, Monica would a good one to ask. I've seen some of her work posted here, and it is impressive.

[Grey Drakkon]

Before I started, I got my hands on this book: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherworking-Handbook-Illustrated-Sourcebook-Techniques/dp/1844034747 and found it incredibly useful for looking up things like what the thicknesses of leather are called, and what kinds of things they can be used in. Ditto with the tools. That book is how I got started in leather mask making, since it's a project that can be as complex or simple as you want, and can use tools as simple as a blade and wool dauber, or go all out and use everything you can throw at it for fun.

[JAZZMAN]

Before I started, I got my hands on this book: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherworking-Handbook-Illustrated-Sourcebook-Techniques/dp/1844034747 and found it incredibly useful for looking up things like what the thicknesses of leather are called, and what kinds of things they can be used in. Ditto with the tools. That book is how I got started in leather mask making, since it's a project that can be as complex or simple as you want, and can use tools as simple as a blade and wool dauber, or go all out and use everything you can throw at it for fun.

Could not agree more on the book recommendation.

[zuludog]

Yes, work your way through this forum and also YouTube; there's loads of information, it will be time consuming but do it in smallish chunks

Get Valerie Michael's book as mentioned above, and Al Stohlman's 'The Art of Hand Sewing Leather'

This company's website has some good tutorials on basic techniques and also a comparison of leather thickness measurements

http://www.bowstock.co.uk

The 4-in-1 awl sold by Tandy and others isn't very good. You're better off getting two separate fixed blade awls; one diamond cross section and one round/scratch awl. Will probably be cheaper too

Don't get a steel hammer, get a hide/wooden/plastic mallet

You will also need a stitching chisel or pricking iron; 4 mm spacing is as good as any to start with

Start with something simple like a key fob

Learn and practice the saddle stitch, you will use this for most sewing

I use a craft knife, often known in Britain by the most common make, a Stanley knife; I think you call them box cutter knives in USA. Find a couple of blades that fit well without wobbling, they seem to get better as you resharpen them

The usual green cutting mats with the grid markings are cheap and good

Don't be in a hurry to buy a load of tools at once; do your homework and get them as you need them; should help prevent you making mistakes if you understand what each tool is for and how to use it

As an indication or guide, I make knife sheaths from 3.5 mm vegetable tanned leather, which I think is about 8 oz. For wallets you'd want something thinner, say 1.5 to 2 mm, but I'm sure others with more experience might correct this

You'll start to see makers & suppliers mentioned. Have a browse through their websites to see what's available; Tandy, Goods Japan, Osborne, etc.

Best Wishes, and have fun!

[zuludog]

I've just had a fiddle with my post, and can't get the link to work, but the address will work if you put it directly into Google. Here it is again

http://www.bowstock.co.uk

[smirak]

Instead of making a new thread, I'll post a new title in this thread...

HELP ME SPEND BETWEEN $200-$250

First off, I have absolutely nothing leather working related except for a Tandy Mini Leather Punch Set. I have wholesale pricing at Springfield Leather. First projects "out of the gate" will be a belt and a wallet.

Bring on the suggestions!

**Edited to add: I'm not so much into tooling leather right now, so gear this more toward non-tooled stuff, hand stitched stuff.**

Edited April 30, 2015 by smirak

[doe]

I'm new too, but I've spent about $200 or so in tools and they've been great for my first few projects. I decided I didn't want to get the cheapest tools and upgrade later, I wanted to spend a little bit more on better (but not necessarily top-of-the-line) tools and materials.

Here's what I would suggest, keep in mind I am a beginner!

eBay:

John James needles, $7.50 (I got size 2 but could have gone with one size larger)

Tiger thread, $6.95

Hunk o'beeswax, $0.99

Stitching pony, $29

Amazon:

Al Stohlman's The Art of Hand Sewing Leather, $10.06

Wing divider, $13.25

Maul, $18.19

LeatherCraftTools.com (be sure to pay for registered shipping, it's only a few dollars more):

6-pc diamond chisels, $43.47

3-pc edge bevelers, $39.18 (I don't have this but wish I did--I've been making do with a cuticle remover!)

Skiver, $18.83 (I don't have this either, and have considered getting a callus shaver to use as a makeshift skiver until my next LCT order)

Hardware store:

• contact cement
• utility knife (you can also use this to carefully cut out a strip between two round holes, instead of using an oblong punch for your belt buckles)
• metal ruler/square
• rubber or plastic mallet if you don't get the maul

You will also want a surface to cut on--I use a self-healing mat from my sewing kit--and a surface to pound on such as a big log, or a granite slab with a cutting board or similar on top so you don't damage your hole punch and chisels.

A rotary cutter comes in handy when making straight cuts on thinner leather. I had one already from sewing, along with a quilter's ruler, which is great for measuring if you aren't working from a pattern. A lot of sewing stuff is handy for leather too.

I used Ian Atkinson's patterns and video tutorial to make a wallet. It wasn't strictly necessary, but it helped me understand the construction to follow along with him.

Edited April 30, 2015 by doe

[ChrisMajoue]

Smirak,

You may want to look into the Tandy beginner kits. I bought this one when I started: http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/department/beginning-leather-kits/55502-00.aspx

It should link to the Deluxe kit, $80.

It comes with some stamps, mallet, dyes, finish, etc., and a half dozen projects (belt, wallet, cell phone case, etc) and basically has little bits of everything to get all of those projects done.

Yes, it's basic, but it gets you going in the right direction, for an very reasonable cost.

I would recommend that to anyone getting into leather work. Plus, $80 is way under your $200 budget.

Chris

[Art]

Smirak,

You might want to travel to Brettuns Village in Lewston, Maine, about a 75-100 mile drive. Good place, good people, good leather, good tools.

It doesn't matter if you buy Tandy tools or More Expensive Tools (well yes it does, buy the best you can afford), buy them one at a time and only what you need to complete your project. A good leatherworker with 10 tools can build a magnificent product while a less talented (less experienced) leatherworker with a hundred tools can make a mediocre product. Just what you need, when you need it.

Sit down and watch, Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage videos, all of them. Watch Nigel's stitching videos and his review of pricking irons two or three times, pay attention to the ones that can be used as stitching irons (there is a difference). There are other videos at Springfield Leather Company site, enjoy and learn something.

Tools:

You need a strop for everything that cuts. Green compound on one side, stropping compound on the other. Make it or buy it, but have it.

Your first knife should be a box cutter with these blades. Learn to use and strop this then move up if you need to.

The largest size Douglas Stitching Awl from Vandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters. Buy a good but inexpensive handle for the awl, the Douglas handle is great but expensive. Also get a regular Stanley or other awl for opening up backstitching holes.

You are going to have to sharpen and strop/polish to awl blade, strop often and you won't have to sharpen that often.

Beeswax from any bee keeper or leather joint.

5 Cord or equivalent thread. Don't get sinew get linen or polyester thread. Ask your dealer.

Size 0 John James Harness needles, Rocky Mountain has them, or C.S. Osborne which generally everyone has. I prefer JJ. Size 0 will fit 5 or 6 cord thread.

Get a #1 or #2 edger from Barry King, Ron's Tools Round Bottom Edger, or a good used one from Bruce Johnson. Remember, when buying old harness tools, they ran large, don't buy anything over a #1 or #2. C.S. Osborne, H.F. Osborne, Gomph and many others made fine edgers and buying from Bruce is safe. Don't fret over the cost of these things (new or used), you will use them all the time and a good one is necessary.

Fiebings Tanners Bond glue or whatever floats your boat. I've used Master and Renia for years, but the white glue is a less technical product.

To start, use pre-dyed leather so you won't have to go there.

Edge Kote of some kind, or some burnishing regimine. I use Giardini paints from Lekoza, maybe too high tech to start. Fiebing's Edge Kote may be easier and it is available everywhere.

This is where you start, don't buy a gazillion tools and expect to get more from them than you can provide.

Art

[smirak]

Art,

Thanks for the response...sent you a message directly...

I've watched nearly all of Ian and Nigel's videos (all of Nigel's).

One thing I didn't add in here was I am going to purchase a drill press or a bench grinder and a burnishing wheel/sanding wheel for finishing.

[zuludog]

Art,

Thanks for the response...sent you a message directly...

I've watched nearly all of Ian and Nigel's videos (all of Nigel's).

One thing I didn't add in here was I am going to purchase a drill press or a bench grinder and a burnishing wheel/sanding wheel for finishing.

There was a similar post to this recently elsewhere on this forum, and here is a similar reply!

Put 'bench grinder drum sander' into Google. If you've watched all Nigel's videos you'll have seem the one about his burnisher.

[jrny4wrd]

As a start, which it seems u may have done, get small pieces of leather of different oz. from springfiled to learn the sizes. Even cut a small square off and lable them. You really dont need much at all to see if you really want to get into it. I started getting the crap from Micheals. If you want to try tooling they have a cheap set with a knife. When you decide you like it, sell a few bracelets to some little girl at some school and buy better ones. Your probably wicked excited and all about getting all this stuff. People started this manopoly using stuff around the barn. They find things to make holes (nail) put a needle through and stitch. I know people that use rocks and such for background designs. A sander and barnisher is a waste of money unless you get into woodworking if you dont want to do leather. They are good items to have when you start making bigger and more pieces but I been a leatherworker for 4 years and still use sandpaper and a bone, wood, piece of genes for barnishing edges. Soon I will be getting a sander because I will be using it for more things but to start, you can use that money for other itmes.

[jrny4wrd]

Oh, if ever you want to get ripped off call up one of the cute sounding voices at Tandy. Pretty sure they make commision. When I started I had no idea people were doing leatherwork. I grew up in the suburbs of chicago and only saw the occasional old tooled purse from a thrift store. Thought they were awesome. Years later I bumped into a leather store and saw someones art work. Some how I found a book (cant remember how). Found the little things at Micheals, bought them and found a Tandy. Not sure how it all happened. Be carefull and go on this forum before spending on some stuff. I pain $50 for a knife and $50 for a pair of scissors. I now use the scissors for paper because they have stupid little teeth on them. I learned how much of an idiot I was when I listened to all the things those sweet girls sold me. If you call a Tandy and someone answers that sounds like they dont give 2 poops, theyre probably honest. You wont like their tone and they probably wont last long but they'll tell you substitutions, when asked.

[snubbyfan]

This is some of the sharp, pointy stuff I use.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JGAB9wft3wc

Stitching stuff.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7e7nlXMFAVg

I've got more stuff on my YouTube Channel.

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCOM3hbruUKHov9kquIxXKlA