Need Help And Or Advice On A Large Sewing Machine Table...

[amuckart]

Ahh, ok good to know! Thank you.

Would this be what I'd want? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1-2-in-x-1-in-Carbide-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim-Router-Bit-DR50102/100660681

The router I have access to is a plunging router, I believe. It's made by craftsman.

Yes, that's what you want. There are two types of flush cut router bit: ones with the bearing at the shaft; and ones with the bearing at the tip. For this job you want one with the bearing at the shaft, which that ones has.

To use a bit like this you need to cut the bulk of the material out first so you're just using the router bit to create the finished edge. Just make sure that whatever material you end up using is thinner than the router bit is long.

[Colt W Knight]

Ahh, ok good to know! Thank you.

Would this be what I'd want? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1-2-in-x-1-in-Carbide-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim-Router-Bit-DR50102/100660681

The router I have access to is a plunging router, I believe. It's made by craftsman.

I use that exact bit when I build guitars.

Yes, that's what you want. There are two types of flush cut router bit: ones with the bearing at the shaft; and ones with the bearing at the tip. For this job you want one with the bearing at the shaft, which that ones has.

To use a bit like this you need to cut the bulk of the material out first so you're just using the router bit to create the finished edge. Just make sure that whatever material you end up using is thinner than the router bit is long.

It doesn't have to be thinner material if you take multiple shallow passes, but to do this, you have to have a tall template to give the bearing a surface to ride on.

[amuckart]

It doesn't have to be thinner material if you take multiple shallow passes, but to do this, you have to have a tall template to give the bearing a surface to ride on.

I was a bit unclear. You can't (or rather, shouldn't) try and cut materials that are thicker than the cutting edge of the router bit + bearing are long because doing so requires only partial insertion of the shaft into the collet of the router and if you get that wrong it can go very badly very fast when the bit is spinning.

[brmax]

Plus 1 on the tall template if using the bearing guide, as doing the corners and hinge areas aren't as deep and needing the tall template height.

I have used a straight edge, say a 1x whatever and run against it and by putting some sort of stop for the corner, so you could return to do them at the angle for the lower depth.

In any case the first is going thru the formica and would need to be 1/8 deep and following with small increases.

clamps and stop block are your friend.

Go for it

Edited April 23, 2015 by brmax

[cdurkinz]

You guys sort of lost me. On the corners for a sewing machine table, it needs to be routed because you have to leave much of the wood there for the machine to sit on, I only want to take out about a half inch deep, and I'm going to be using wood that's like 1.5'' thick, I guess I'm just not understanding what you mean by:

Just make sure that whatever material you end up using is thinner than the router bit is long.

[amuckart]

Router bits have cutting edges that are a certain length, say 1 1/4". With a router bit like that you can cut material 1 1/4" thick. If you want to cut material 1 5-16" thick you have to leave 1/16" of the shaft sticking out pf the bushing on the router. This is invariably a Bad Idea.

If you can get a 1 1/2" bit, then you can use up to 1 1/2" thick material for your table top. That's more than enough for what you want to do. 1" is plenty for table tops like this.

[brmax]

Good morning!

No matter this is not the time to attempt a 1.5" plunge cut out. imho

Edit: preferably 1/4" cut is more than enough in each step, the consistent down pressure and control of the router is practiced through time. Go for it on some other material a little, " A key is only going one way in the wood grain" practice you will see.

From a manufacturing point i believe plunge cuts are more easily performed In particle, and mdf. but remembering a lot of process are machine controlled routers.

Tip:The bearing is for following the pattern without burning the wood from 20,000rpm bits as a bushing guide does.

Measuring from the circle edge of router base that rides against a temp guide to the bit is practiced, as some bases are not same on both sides.

Good day there, & getter done

[cdurkinz]

Router bits have cutting edges that are a certain length, say 1 1/4". With a router bit like that you can cut material 1 1/4" thick. If you want to cut material 1 5-16" thick you have to leave 1/16" of the shaft sticking out pf the bushing on the router. This is invariably a Bad Idea.

If you can get a 1 1/2" bit, then you can use up to 1 1/2" thick material for your table top. That's more than enough for what you want to do. 1" is plenty for table tops like this.

Ahhh ok I think I understand now. Ya, I won't be doing any of that. I just need the router to form the rounded corners where the sewing machine sits, which is like 1/2" deep or so. I will be removing most of the material beforehand with a jigsaw.

Edited April 25, 2015 by cdurkinz

[amuckart]

Ahhh ok I think I understand now. Ya, I won't be doing any of that. I just need the router to form the rounded corners where the sewing machine sits, which is like 1/2" deep or so. I will be removing most of the material beforehand with a jigsaw.

I would use the router around the whole circumference. You'll get a far better result that way. Take most of the material out with a jigsaw, leaving a small amount inside the lines, then take it back to the lines with the router.

It does mean you'll need two templates, one for the full thickness cut and one for the corners.

First route full thickness with a template like this:

Then route the corners half (or whatever) thickness with a template like this

That will give you a hole like this:

You'll need a way to ensure the templates are perfectly lined up but that can be done by making sure the outsides are exactly the same size and clamping a builder's square on to the the table.

[Trox]

Hi,

My Dürkopp Adler 267-373 table has a table top that you can build on extra size to. You put in long steel bolts in pre drilled holes and add the extra table pieces, see pic. It will not be extremely big, but you can at least double the size when needed and take it off when not. Perhaps something to think about when a big table is not needed all the time. This is a Norwegian table system, I am sure it will be similar tables available other countries too.

Tor