Members AdamTill Posted June 17, 2015 Members Report Posted June 17, 2015 Hi folks, Due in large part to the info on this site, I finally finished (99% or so of the way) my first saddle this week. Still needs stirrup twist wraps and hobbles and a little cleaning and conditioning. I would have preferred a mule hide horn wrap, but since this was for my wife, it had to match the seat leather (she won't really be roping out of it). The line of the fork shows though the seat a little in an attempt to keep the rise as low as possible, but the shape seems to ride really nicely. Rod Nikkel tree, Steve Mason silver. Any tips or honest criticisms greatly appreciated. Thanks! Adam Quote
Members Goldshot Ron Posted June 18, 2015 Members Report Posted June 18, 2015 The last two "first time" saddles that I've seen posted on this site have looked really good. You did a really good job. I do have some questions for you before I jump in with suggestions. It looks like you have inskirt rigging, right or wrong? How did you make your flank cinch? What size seat is on the saddle? Will this saddle be used on the horse in the photo? Ron Quote
Members AdamTill Posted June 18, 2015 Author Members Report Posted June 18, 2015 The last two "first time" saddles that I've seen posted on this site have looked really good. You did a really good job. I do have some questions for you before I jump in with suggestions. It looks like you have inskirt rigging, right or wrong? How did you make your flank cinch? What size seat is on the saddle? Will this saddle be used on the horse in the photo? Ron Hi Ron. You're right in that I have another one started, but this is the first one is the first I've finished. The other is on hold because I ended up selling the horse it was intended for. I have a third Rod Nikkel tree that I'm going to build off before I go back and finish the first one to sell off (neither of the horses we own fit it anymore, the tree is very wide). Yes to in-skirt rigging. Going to be running two mohair cinches, so no leather flank cinch. My wife is weaving her cinches right now, so these in the photos are very temporary. Seat is based off a 10 3/8" thigh length, and the tree was made for this horse. It's seeming to sit a little nose down right now because the shearling needs packing down a lot. The tree bars have some accommodations for the short saddle fitting zone on Arabs, and seems to work pretty well so far. Quote
Members Tosch Posted June 18, 2015 Members Report Posted June 18, 2015 Adam, when I first saw the saddle/horse combination I was afraid you have become unfaithful to you Icelandic Horse ! I like the saddle, and I like the seat profile. Many happy trails.. Quote
Members Billy H Posted June 18, 2015 Members Report Posted June 18, 2015 Great Job! I was thinking the same as Tosch about your Icelandic. I wish I could find a Icelandic that was 15 hands--- they are such cool horses. Your cantle binding looks really good from the pictures. They always are a struggle for me. Billy Quote
Members AdamTill Posted June 18, 2015 Author Members Report Posted June 18, 2015 (edited) Thanks folks, but man I'm going to break some hearts from the sound of it when I say I sold that Icelandic to a friend. He really wanted to be a trail horse more than a rope horse, and they're happily tolting the trails of northern Alberta together. Billy, I cheated a little on the cantle binding with the eustachian pins. I didn't want to try an exposed stitch line the first time out, so this was a nice way to cover that up. The binding was getting a little thick too, so it saved a layer of leather to go through. I also really wouldn't want a 15hh Icelandic, honestly. They're wide horses on average, and I couldn't sit on that guy at 14 hh bareback for any length of time without my hips hurting. Even in a saddle (which need a lot of build up leather to get a narrow enough seat) it was tough to ride with relaxed legs due to the width of the horse. Now if my current 14hh horse was 15hh I'd be thrilled, but he's a lot narrower and a HECK of a lot easier to fit a tree to. I like the little ones though - turn on a dime if they're set up for it correctly. Stressed out over hobble training (photo credit to Lee McLean): Edited June 18, 2015 by AdamTill Quote
rktaylor Posted June 18, 2015 Report Posted June 18, 2015 (edited) Well done Adam. While I assume the pins are easier than an exposed stitch line. Regardless you did a nice job on them. I like the in-skirt rigging. Can you post a picture of the rear dee? Is it hand or machine stitched? Thanks, Randy Edited June 18, 2015 by rktaylor Quote
Members rdl123 Posted June 18, 2015 Members Report Posted June 18, 2015 Good Job Adam! I like the clean overall look of this rig & I think your seat profile from the side view looks good. I believe less rise helps with staying centered - Is that what you find? I'd be interested in more info on this. Anyhow, excellent overall! This site sure is invaluable for us first time makers - Really ups the ante and helps with relevant info on specific issues. Looking forward to seeing more of your work! This saddle of yours inspires me to try and do better on the rig I have underway! Ron L Quote
Members BondoBobCustomSaddles Posted June 19, 2015 Members Report Posted June 19, 2015 Nice job Adam. Will be looking for more of your work as you continue. I like this one really well. Now that you have most of the stuff in hand, it's time for you to get at that cantle binding stitch. It just takes time and patience. A little tip, when you are pushing you awl through, just before it comes out the back side you can see where it is going to come out. even if it comes out a little pull it back some and re angle the hole to come out where you want it. The mark or litte prick hole from the first try will close up and not show. Again, nice job. Keep up the good work. Bob Quote
Members Goldshot Ron Posted June 19, 2015 Members Report Posted June 19, 2015 Adam, I think you did a fine job on this saddle, especially for a first attempt. I do have some suggestions and comments. First, the placement of the saddle on the horse appears that it is sitting back a little. Your latigo does not appear to be aligned straight up and down. This out of aligned placement shows also in the seat centerline to the horses centerline where the riders center of gravity is back behind the horse's center of gravity. It may be the photo illusion, but the placement of the girth appears to be placed close to the horse's elbow so you may not be able to set the saddle any more forward. Second, I don't understand the rear girth idea. I've only seen two girths used on pack saddles, then they were attached together and not at the normal girth/flank cinch offset. If you're going to be roping, you have to secure your rear off-billet so it doesn't get caught in your loop. Yours is just hanging there. Two other comments are cosmetic: your horn could be trimmed straighter up and down, and edged rounder, then burnished. And, your border needed the camo (or border stamp) stamped on the bottom like you did on your fork pattern. This adds to better symmetry of your design. Finally, the screw at the fork is too far back towards the seat. It should be placed in the centerline (up and down) of your fork, and about 1 to 1 1/2 inches down from the top edge of the seat jockey. I would have placed it about at the position of the 6th border stamp back from your latigo catcher in your offside photo (photo 5). This avoids pinching the seat leather in and interfering with your stirrups forward swing. Good luck on your next saddle. Ron Quote
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