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Don't add the baking soda to the roon. It should be a mix of baking soda and water I use about a tablespoon of baking soda to 1 quart of water, dip in roon let sit about 5 minutes then dip in baking soda mix no more then 30 seconds( 30 seconds is what I use, other people have their own time frame) rinse.

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Posted

I knew that it has to be different batches in order for it to work just not sure if it would kill the roon and metal odor.

Thanks for all the info.

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Posted

The baking soda bath is a neutralizing agent. The roon is acidic adding the baking soda bath (baking soda is a base or alkaline) adding the soda will bring the Ph closer to neutral. It will assist in reducing the odor. The important thing is that you not overdue the soda as you will move to far up the Ph scale and have the possibility of damaging the leather.

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Posted

When I started out, I used vinegaroon to blacken leather any time I needed leather that was black. Today I'm very selective about it, only using it for the top layer of my three-layer belts (I used drum-dyed leather for my holsters). And for those, I still top coat with a Angelus acrylic-based finish, not dye. The acrylic finish is not a dye, it NEVER rubs off, and makes a beautiful top coat.

So if I'm putting a black coat on my belts, why bother to vinegaroon?

Because it makes the leather a lot tougher, more water-resistant, and more scratch resistant.

tk

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Posted

after reading post on vinegaroon (how ever it is spelled). Any one have a step by step setup process and recipe?

Thanks,

Phill

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Posted

I am in the process of making my second batch before it gets to cold out to let the sun warm it, Adams leather works I think it is called has a good explanation on his website, but, I bought a gallon of regular vinegar at the store along with a box of brillow pads, washed all the soap out of the pads then shredded it all up and dropped in to the gallon jug. the 1st batch set out side for 2 weeks, I would go out everyday and shake it up and stir it with a metal rod I have. I also dropped in a few rusty bolts that were laying around, once all of the steel wool has been desolved and the vinegar takes on a dark color ad the odor has diminished it is close o being done. If after a few weeks the steel wool is gone and the vinegar has not changed color much and there is going to be a need to add more metal, it can be rusty nuts, bolts, nails, or you can go buy brillow pads.

Once it takes on a dark color almost tea like and even darker your close to being done, you will need to filter out all the metal residue to remove any left over particles, I filtered mine 3 times. If the odor is still faint let it air out for a week or so, you can do that by leaving it in the jug with the cap off, it still might have a faint odor to it, but from what I and you have read here neutralizing it will help with the odor, and like one other person commented I put a little scented oil on it and it covered up the odor. One other thin I left out but did not do myself that was mentioned on Adams leather website was to warm the vinegar on the stove 1st, not sure if it makes a difference as I did not do it on the 1st or second batch. Now for the second batch it is taking longer than the 1st and not sure why other than it has not been as hot out as it was during the 1st batch. Hope this helps and good luck in your efforts, and as note I have died one item and it came out great, I am still learning and have a long way to go, if I left anything out I am sure others will add more.

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and aren't those a plus?

you betcha.

tk

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Posted

Thank you OLDNSLOW!

I appreciate the info. I will get started on mine since it takes some time for the process.

I have all kinds of rusty iron laying around.

I have used vinegar for removing rust. Never thought of using it for a dye!!

I was also thinking of making a barrel like Will Ghormley does on his holsters to get that authentic old look.

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