ChiefFilipino Report post Posted July 1, 2015 I really like friction/tension hold sheaths and I am working on one right now (a horizontal draw) when a question popped in my head: can I dye the leather first (I like oil dyes) while the pieces are apart, then wet form the sheath around the knife after that? For the knife sheath I'm working on now I wet formed it first then dyed it but I was just curious if I could go the other way around. A second question issue came up with this project, it is a small knife with a finger guard. I have the sheath going up like a quarter of the handle and as I was wet forming the sheath the leather dried and the opening shrank a little. I could pull it out just fine but when I would go to put it back in I was mashing the leather. I cut a hole along the top a little to make it so I could put the knife back in without mashing the leather. The question is: when I am wet forming a sheath how do I accommodate the finger guard but still maintain the tension/friction necessary to hold in the blade? Third question: how large do I need to make the welt? The welt I have on this one is about 1/4 inch but the blade moves around a lot in the sheath. Do I need to cut the welt in the shape of the blade? Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted July 1, 2015 Unique knife. Customer wanted two same style, different color. I try to make all my sheaths with two separate pieces of leather. I taper the welt on the point and on the hidden side of the welt. I am also a little generous with the glue. I slice open the glue when inserting the knife. Won't hurt the knife. The other picture is a cheap blued blade (I like it) knife and sheath. Stays put. I kept the knife and sheath. May I suggest that when you do the folding knife sheath, make the sheath partly open on the bottom that allows the finger guard to be sheathed plus an inch. When you wet mold the leather will collapse behind the finger guard an provide retension. Great retention but rather easy to draw. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChiefFilipino Report post Posted July 1, 2015 Those are beautiful Red Cent! When I add that inch behind the finger guard and the leather collapses, won't I be smooshing the leather when I re-sheath the knife? With this one the guard was ramming into the leather and it would collapse together closing off the hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1961Mike Report post Posted July 1, 2015 I really like friction/tension hold sheaths and I am working on one right now (a horizontal draw) when a question popped in my head: can I dye the leather first (I like oil dyes) while the pieces are apart, then wet form the sheath around the knife after that? For the knife sheath I'm working on now I wet formed it first then dyed it but I was just curious if I could go the other way around. ... Third question: how large do I need to make the welt? The welt I have on this one is about 1/4 inch but the blade moves around a lot in the sheath. Do I need to cut the welt in the shape of the blade? Thank you! Hi Chief For 1. I died a piece of Veg Tanned Tandy Leather with Light Brown Feiblings die. The die was a little (VERY LITTLE) bit uneven. I spit on the leather and rubbed it. The leather went about 2 shades darker. From then on, I use Distilled water to wet mold anything. 3. I always run the welt up to the top of the sheath because you're drawing the knife all of the way to the top. Later Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChiefFilipino Report post Posted July 1, 2015 What about the thickness of the welt is what I meant? For example from the stitching to the blade itself should there be a gap? Or should I basically cut a silhouette of the blade out and have everything snug as a bug? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) When I make a sheath, I make a tracing of the blade itself then add 1/4" around it. Then I cut both the tracing of the blade and the 1/4" outside to use as my welt. I use the same piece as my outline for the front and back piece. In case you are talking about the thickness, I try and get a piece of leather that is the same thickness of the blade are its thickest point. In both cases, it helps hold the blade without being too tight in case the snap/button stud doesn't get closed here's the tutorial I use when making one http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41280 Edited July 1, 2015 by Halitech Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChiefFilipino Report post Posted July 1, 2015 Thanks! I haven't tried the layering process for the sheath yet. I really like the wet form/molding or folding process whatever it is called. I want to play with this style for awhile and then try my hand at the layer process like the tutorial you shared. Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1961Mike Report post Posted July 1, 2015 What about the thickness of the welt is what I meant? For example from the stitching to the blade itself should there be a gap? Or should I basically cut a silhouette of the blade out and have everything snug as a bug? Hi again You can't exactly cut a silhouette of the blade because many blades (most I've dealt with) are wider at the point end than at the handle, or curve somewhat. You have to allow room for the curve etc. I can't remember where I found this out, but it works great. AFTER YOU PUT A FINISH ON THE LEATHER, glue everything together with rubber cement. You can try the fit, tear the sheath apart, and cut some off the welt, replace with a bigger one etc. Later Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChiefFilipino Report post Posted July 1, 2015 Thanks Mike! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
