10FiftyFive Report post Posted July 17, 2015 Hi Everyone,I'm new here, so I hope this alright. Learned a *lot* from lurking around a bit, and I'm fully diving head first into my first project, but I wanted to toss this up and see if there's anything I'm doing that's just an idiotic FNG mistake.I mocked up a 'pattern' out of cardboard, for what I'm hoping to make, basically a short fold over sheath with a welt and a snap strap under the beard of a small axe. I need to make 6 of them, have the leather that I think I need to make it happen (8/9oz) My plan is copper rivet and burrs to secure the whole thing https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPUCAxarhTn6kScUjYHDMfRcsnu7XnvZmFbj_07 I guess I have a question for you guys on how best to get the fold on the top of the axe? as well as is there anything here that stands out as a stupid plan to begin with? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted July 17, 2015 Pretty sure you will get more comments putting your pictures here instead google if their like me and don't want to do a bunch of exra steps to see the picture. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10FiftyFive Report post Posted July 17, 2015 Totally fair, I was making that initial post from my tablet so it was kind of a pain to resize images... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted July 19, 2015 Not a bad plan. Looks like you have put a good bit of thought into it. The "Fold" is a common stump. The solution here is to figure the true dimensions of the sheath pattern by first, (and you've done this,) make a mock up. Second, use a strap of the leather you intend to use to measure out the distance from the tip of the "beard", over the top, and back down the other side. Then add what's needed for the rivets. Draw out the pattern using the attached drawing as a guide, and work out the welt placement and rivet holes. Fold the pattern on its center Line to draw out the other side so the match up. Use some scrap leather for the first run to make sure you have everything in place. You have a good start, just be sure to take all steps necessary to get your pattern right, tight, and out of sight. Holler anytime. Jim Axe Sheath.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10FiftyFive Report post Posted July 20, 2015 Thanks Jim! I got a bit too caught up in the moment on my first test run, and got my process out of order so I don't have a retention strap on that one... My leather seems dry, that's the best I can describe it since I don't have a whole lot of experience working any before. It's 8/9oz. On my test run I wet formed it over the axe head, and that got me a nice sharp bend on it, but I guess in my head I'm jumbling up my order of operations and not quite sure which step to do in which order. All my pieces are cut, main sheath, welt, and retention strap. I have copper rivet & burrs, and snaps already. I need to do the following Punch holes for retention strap Set strap/button Wet form head/strap Punch holes, (for main/welt, and retention strap) Sand edges even after it's together so everything is lined up Burnish Dye Set strap/snap Set rivets Oil/Soap/Wax I *believe* I should dye everything before assembly, and obviously it needs to be wet formed and burnished before it's dyed.. If I wet it after burnishing will that ruin things? If my leather is dry should I be conditioning it somehow before anything, and if so how? I don't want to get in the same place as I was with my first round where it's half assembled and I realize I can't get in to where I need to in order to set my next rivet. If I set the strap before wet forming, then I can't get everywhere I need to for dying/finishing, but if I don't I'm not sure I'll be able to get where I need to set the rivet properly with the tools I have. I know these are newbie questions and probably out of place for this post, I'm just thinking out loud and would greatly appreciate any help you guys can toss my way Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted July 21, 2015 In the Historical Reenactment section I posted a tutorial on Making Mountain Man Gear. Give it look. It has a section on making ax sheaths you might find very useful. Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted July 21, 2015 I just had a thought. If you will be patient, this weekend I will draw up a tutorial just for an ax sheath and post it here. I'll take it a little different direction to ensure the sheath stays on the ax. How 'bout it? Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10FiftyFive Report post Posted July 22, 2015 Thanks Jim! I kinda wish I'd seen that mountain man gear thread before I'd cut out all my bits and pieces.. I think I can still make it work though. I did plan on going with rivets for speed and ease though, so I don't currently have stuff necessary to stitch anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted July 22, 2015 Rivets are a good idea. I'll draw it up with that in mind so you don't have to get a slide rule to figure any allowances. Oh, for those who don't know; a slide rule is what us cavemen used to do math before we had pocket calculators. Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted July 23, 2015 one thing to keep in mind is the cutting edge is bigger then everything else so you need to make sure the opening will allow you to put the axe in and take it out once it's all assembled. Don't ask why I bring this up, just take the word of advice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10FiftyFive Report post Posted July 25, 2015 Thank all you guys for your help! I got a little impatient and went for it. I think it turned out alright for the first actual thing I've ever done in leather.. I do need to make 5 more of them, but I'm well on my way towards that and I'm glad it turned out this well. Since I know you guys like pictures here it is, I made the frog as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David8386 Report post Posted July 25, 2015 Looks good. David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted July 26, 2015 I gotta say, there ain't nothing wrong with that. Looks really good. That being said I hate to waist things so I'm posting this anyway. Great job 10fiftyfive! Jim Ax Sheath.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10FiftyFive Report post Posted July 26, 2015 I gotta say, I wish I'd had that before I had started at all Jim, great instructions and greatly appreciated! I'll most likely have more of these to make and will be changing my technique for sure moving forward. Didn't mean to snub you at all, just on a time crunch. Having someone like you, willing to take time and help someone completely new to a hobby while they're asking all the stupid questions is immeasurably supportive and appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted July 27, 2015 Not snubbed at all pardner. I admire your resolve and willingness to jump in the deep end. I figured this stuff out the same way all by my lonesome. Probably why I don't have anymore hair. You did a great job on the sheath. Nothing wrong with it. Keep up the good work. Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragonhawke Report post Posted July 27, 2015 Awesome Job as usual Jim and for a first project 1055, I would say bloody well done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
munkmourninglory Report post Posted June 22 I I do a lot of leather work already so a basic hatchet sheath would be no real issue but I'm trying something a little more out of the ordinary and advanced for this one. What I'd like to do is design the sheath around a hook. My hatchet has a inch inch and a half divot I guess you'd call it at the base just before the handle and what I'm envisioning is a sheath that would allow me to drop that divot onto a hook and allow natural weight momentum to swing the blade forward or up into the covering or sheath proper. What I'm finding is the weights not quite right to allow the hatchet to swing correctly. It's handle heavy which is causing it to swing handle forward, blade back, when I drop it on the hook and that's not allowing for a proper setting into the blade cover. I've been tossing around the idea of a small magnet in the tip because when the hatchets dropped onto the hook it wants to swing handle forward but then immediately balance out and swing back, so if I could get the blade to swing back past the sheath and then forward into the sheath where it's then caught by the magnet and held in its proper place I think that might suffice but as of yet the whole designs just kind of alluding me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted June 22 2 hours ago, munkmourninglory said: I I do a lot of leather work already so a basic hatchet sheath would be no real issue but I'm trying something a little more out of the ordinary and advanced for this one. What I'd like to do is design the sheath around a hook. My hatchet has a inch inch and a half divot I guess you'd call it at the base just before the handle and what I'm envisioning is a sheath that would allow me to drop that divot onto a hook and allow natural weight momentum to swing the blade forward or up into the covering or sheath proper. What I'm finding is the weights not quite right to allow the hatchet to swing correctly. It's handle heavy which is causing it to swing handle forward, blade back, when I drop it on the hook and that's not allowing for a proper setting into the blade cover. I've been tossing around the idea of a small magnet in the tip because when the hatchets dropped onto the hook it wants to swing handle forward but then immediately balance out and swing back, so if I could get the blade to swing back past the sheath and then forward into the sheath where it's then caught by the magnet and held in its proper place I think that might suffice but as of yet the whole designs just kind of alluding me can you send a picture of your hatchet I cant quite grasp what you mean by a divot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted June 24 ahh i see your quandary your chopper has an enlarged beard lol., but I don't see how your gonna get past the balance problem using the front of the blade maybe that hole in the back or the heel of the blade could be used. I have a couple of hatchets my solution was to make a drop in type sheath. they work well and you can add a flap or mod the design to fit about any blade shape. Nice chopper BTW!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThisIsMyFirstRodeo Report post Posted August 25 On 6/24/2024 at 4:31 AM, chuck123wapati said: ahh i see your quandary your chopper has an enlarged beard lol., but I don't see how your gonna get past the balance problem using the front of the blade maybe that hole in the back or the heel of the blade could be used. I have a couple of hatchets my solution was to make a drop in type sheath. they work well and you can add a flap or mod the design to fit about any blade shape. Nice chopper BTW!! Ok I’m glad I took a 2nd look (ok, 4th…). I woulda sworn that I saw a double-bladed ax for a moment… I’m digging on those sheaths! Any chance for what looks like a nail-knocker on the one to the right? 1055– don’t mean to detract from your post, my axes are currently taking over priority from my knives, and I’m trying to wrap my head (and leather) around them too. Definitely looks functional, and for a first leather effort, that looks great! And Jim, I’ll be all over that tutorial! Still my first rodeo, even if it’s the 4H sheep roping at the county fair. Fine, I admit it, I’m the barrel clown for the sheep… Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
