Chinese-Built Shoe Patcher

[dikman]

I just bought one of these little hand-cranked beasties, and was wondering if anyone else has one, or has used one? It's listed as a to-16 model by the seller.

It's a very interesting little piece of machinery, crudely made compared to a Singer, but using a standard (15x1) sewing machine needle (for leather) has no trouble punching through three layers of 8 oz veg. I haven't got it sewing yet, as I think I need some suitable thread (keeps breaking ordinary cotton thread!) but I bought it mainly to use to pre-punch the holes prior to hand stitching, and being a patcher-type machine means I can get into awkward areas - at least, that's the theory!

[Wizcrafts]

I thought those machines used system 135x16 and 135x17 needles. They are longer than domestic needles and come in much larger sizes (up to #25). Larger needles will poke bigger holes.

As for sewing with it, get yourself some T70 (a.k.a. b69) bonded nylon thread and #18 needles. That is the basic starting point for most patchers. If you are just going to punch holes with it, the round point needles will make a round hole, as opposed to a slit made by chisel point leather needles.

[Cobra Steve]

As Wiz said, it probably takes the 135 system needle unless it was never changed from the 29X1 or 29X 3 system, but most of the Singer patch machines have been converted.

[dikman]

Thanks guys. The needle that came with it appears to be the same as the 15x1 in my little Singer 201K. The length of the needle looks fine when it's operating, but a bit more investigation is obviously necessary.

By the way, I only use a machine to pre-punch the holes and then use an awl to open them up for the stitching needles. This gives me uniform spacing as well as making it easier to get the awl through the leather.

[dikman]

As suggested, I've ordered some #69 bonded thread. I've also sorted out the breaking thread issue. I figured it had to be the shuttle timing, as I'd dismantled it all to smooth out the sliding parts and grease them. It just took a little while to work out the correct operating sequence. Now I need to make a new presser foot, one that is height-adjustable. And a decent bobbin winder. The beauty of this thing is that it's so primitive that it's easy to work on! (I also found another post on here about the Able 290, which is the same machine).

[Darren Brosowski]

The machine I think you are talking about is based on the Wertheim, Claase etc 1860's machines.

They are crude but with the right set up can work very well. Primarily they are made for the third world market where they want a simple machine that is portable, can take all sorts of abuse and uses readily available needles.

The ABLE290 is what I call the machine and I offer a proper manual as well as a bobbin winder that actually works.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

I have one and use it for things like putting zippers in boots, and pursed and patching. I really use my cowboy most of the time, but; it comes in real handy for the odd job or zipper or what ever. Yes it is crude, but; then again, so am I! It works and that's all I'm gonna say.

Bob

[Darren Brosowski]

LOL Bob, unlike some sellers I have never pretended that the thing is anything other than crude and rude.

[dikman]

That's one of the things I like about it - the (very) basic, agricultural simplicity. I've modified mine a bit, put an adjustment on the springs that pull down the presser foot, smoothed off the teeth a bit on the foot, replaced the spring on the thread adjustment screw with a locking nut ('cos it tended to shift), made a table to give me a flat surface next to the feed area and I'm modifying a bobbin winder from a Singer 201K (the supplied one is a joke).

A very useful little machine.

[Darren Brosowski]

One of the things I do is make a bobbin winder out of Singer 15k parts from China. It is mounted on a bracket - with the original spring - so it can be mounted to the far right and run against the hand wheel all of the time.