Copper Rivets Not Holding?

[Paddywhompus]

I've tried several things, slowly tapping the washer on or trying to fasten it securely but I have found some don't want to stick, they go normally but end up being pushed up whenever I cut the tip and try to flatten it, resulting in odd shaped tops.

Can someone explain this? Is it like screws and nails in a box? A random some will not work quite right? Or am I doing something wrong? I have the proper setters and use a poly and regular hammer to shape them.

My latest project was this tool bag I made for work, it turned out great and holds everything. I just wish some of the rivets looked a little nicer.

[Northmount]

A sharp close up pic of the rivets may help us determine what the problem is.

If the rivet is cut too short, there won't be enough material to hold the burr down.

If you smash the rivet down hard with a couple blows, it won't look great either. Usually bends the post and doesn't leave enough above the burr to deform over the burr.

I use a ball peen hammer to gently deform the post working sort of circular around the post. Gentle taps. I cut the post so it protrudes about 3/16" through the burr. I use a diagonal cutters, or end cutter to nip off the excess. I have used Tandy's rivet setter too (it works okay), but generally go back to the way my dad showed me over 50 years ago.

Tom

[Paddywhompus]

I may be cutting it too short, I use a pair of lineman pliers, Kobalt brand, and I lay it flat with the rivet to cut the shank off, so it may be cutting it too close, like maybe an 1/8th. Unfortunately all my sample rivets are at work with my bag. I use setters I bought from SLC and then tap it down with a regular 16oz claw hammer. I don't have a ball peen, I have it on my 'later' list.

Also, if I did leave a little more 'meat' on the shank that may solve my issue, I never really thought about the amount left on, some of them felt loose because I feel like I didn't get the washer down tight enough and left too much. Some of them wouldn't work out because I was trying to put them on as 'last minute' touches. I think the best way would be a flat surface. I just noticed that sometimes even flat it happens.

Might just be something I need more practice at. I am still new, this was my 4th project.

[camano ridge]

1/8th inch should be good. When I do copper rivets I use a set of nippers and set the end flush against the leather. I do not cut the rivet off in one cut I will take a partial cut then rotate the cutter around the rivet a little and take another cut and continue to do that until I have gone all the way around the rivet before taking the last cut. This leaves a pointed or pyramid end that domes nicely. When using your setter put the burr over the stud of the rivet place the hole in your setter over the stud and tap it down until the burr is set firmly against the leather. I have noticed that some setters have a deeper dome that makes it harder to dome the rivet The shallower the better at least for me. Careful on leaving to much of the rivet it may bend instead of dome. Make sure you have an extremely solid surface like an anvil or a concrete floor behind your rivet when peening it. I would go ahead and get a ball peen, you can get a whole set of them for around $10.00 at harbor freight.

[Northmount]

I should have said 3/32". So just under 1/8". 3/16" is usually too long!

Tom

[JREESER1]

Just a thought. Be sure you use a solid surface to buck the rivet against. I place a small, 2 or 15 lbs. anvil , depending on the piece and the opening, under the flat of the rivet and make sure the flat stays flat on the anvil while I set the burr and peen the rivet. I have had great luck so far. I do not drive the burr on so hard that I mar the piece. If the rivet is square as I set it, the process goes fairly easy and looks good, taboot!

jr