Awls, Harness Needles, And Threads

[kjcreamer]

Newbie here in need of clarification/direction. I've read lots and lots and lots of stuff about Tiger thread (and like everyone else in the world watched Ian A. and Nigel A. use it on their videos). It seems like it's hard to find in US without buying short lengths for a huge mark-up. So if I don't bother with Tiger thread, what else should I get to use with saddle stitching by hand (no machine). I currently use the Tandy waxed nylon thread they said I should buy to start with. This is what I have: https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/1227-02.aspx . It appears to have three small threads to form the main thread. It's been okay as my starter thread (I have in all three amazing colors - white, black, and brown) but now that I'm better at stitching, I'm ready to get some better stuff next time. What I like about it - prewaxed is easy and I'm fearful of my ability to know how much wax to apply if I get unwaxed. What I don't like about it - seems sort of thick for what I'm making which have been journal covers (these projects really show how much my stitching is improving though , pouches, some not-so-great wallets, basic beginner stuff, nothing heavy duty like sheaths. I'm also wondering if I'm doing something wrong, I'm being picky, or it's just the thread but it seems sort of "furry" after stitching. Definitely not frayed or anything, but I thought the wax would keep it "neater" and less feathery. How do you know how thick thread is? I've read there are different thoughts on linen vs. nylon.

So if someone recommends a good thread, what harness needles to use with it? I am soooo confused with the harness needle numbering system. I've gathered that I should get John James which I know SLC carries. Seems JJ needles will do an adequate job and I think the prices are okay for my budget. Some places say UK sizing of JJ needles are different from US. I understand that I should use the smallest needle that I can, but isn't that dependent on the thread (which as I said above I don't know how to determine its thickness/weight/or whatever is the correct term for it)? So how do I "match" them? I have to mail order it sight unseen. http://springfieldleather.com/20059/Needle%2CHarness%2C%2200%22Med%2C5pk/

Finally, I can't believe what sharpening my awl did for me!! I'm sure I didn't even do it "right" or as long as I should have. I watched the Nigel A. video on sharpening. Since I don't have sharpening stones, I bought a variety pack of fine wet/dry sandpaper (400,800,1000,1200 grits). I used it dry since I thought adding sharpening oil would leave residue on the leather even after wiping. I finished by stropping with the jewelers' rouge that came with my starter Tandy set. So I have two questions here about awls. First, is there an affordable sharpening stone set for awls or should I stick with sandpaper for now? I'm grinning at the idea that my awl could be even better with the right tools. Seems like I can find lots of stuff for sharpening swivel knife blades but not the diamond shaped awl. Second, how does the awl size work with the needle/thread size choices? [As a side note, I wanted to order from SLC an Osbourne haft (there are 3 choices - which one? http://springfieldleather.com/24630/Awl%2CHaft%2CPalm/) and Osbourne blade (a bunch of sizes - which one? http://springfieldleather.com/16526/Blade%2CAwl%2CHarness%2C1-3-4%22/) to use as my primary awl and use the somewhat sharpened Tandy awl as my backup so if I'm getting new thread and needles, this is a good time to get a coordinating awl set-up.]

And just in case this makes any impact on the advice above, I am using Tandy's Pro Line Diamond Stitching Chisels (I have 2mm in 2 and 4 prong versions and 3mm in 2 and 4 prong versions https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/88044-02.aspx). I pound in the chisel but not all the way through all the layers of leather. I use the awl to open one hole at a time and stitch. I'm slow but following my Al Stohlman book instructions (Don't put the awl down between stitches

So I guess I'm assuming thread steers the size decisions for all the other things, but maybe I have that backwards.

I know this is a really long post but I wanted to provide as much information as possible to hopefully help someone help me. This is my first post and I want to say thank you for all of you that have been posting such great information that I've been reading. Whenever I jump on the forum, it's like I get to go to a really awesome leather "class" anytime I want.

[thefanninator]

Try the Irish linen thread at Royalwood.

http://www.royalwoodltd.com/cat14-17ar.htm

Later try the French linen thread Fil au Chinois at Fine Leather Working. They also have John James needles and Blanchard tools.

[DavidL]

I like the shapton waterstone 1000 grit (japanese rating somewhere near 400-600 grit). 30 ish dollars from leathercrafttools.com. I sharpen my awl on the side of the stone or the bottom. The stone never dulls like a regular home depot stone does, it sheds the grits and fresh grits will be on the surface. You do need to flatten the stone with something like a DMT extra extra coarse or atoma 140 or carbide grits on glass. The DMT diamond stones by itself is good too since (I have the coarse) it will always be flat w/ no maintenance unlike waterstones.

[Art]

Good advice from all. Get an Barry King awl haft at Lekoza, nice medium handle, much easier to push. Size zero or 2 JJ needles for 1mm thread. If you have to use pliers, get a smaller needle or bigger awl. Once you use oil on a natural stone, keep using it. If you have diamond stones or new natural stones you can use a 50/50 mix of water and Simple Green, we use it for everything but the Tormek and the Makita, just plain water on those. Water Stones, use water only.

Art

[Oldtoolsniper]

Learning to sharpen is 3/4's of the battle on sharpening.

I own the tormek, work sharp,veritas, twice as sharp, Japanese Waterstones, ceramic stones, natural Arkansas stones, diamond stones, paper wheels, leather wheels, belt sanders and some other fancy things for making things sharp. I use sandpaper on glass or glued to MDF the most. It's like using a disposable razor compared to a straight razor.

Hone your skills with sandpaper and get good quality equipment as your needs and skills improve. Learning how to sharpen will show you what you need to sharpen. Get a good set of magnified eyeballs so you can see the edge, as the picture I've included shows, I can't see that very good without magnification. The edge is magnified x21. I can clearly see that's not sharp and why.

Sandpaper goes all the way to micro finish film. (Lee Valley tools) it will take you to hair splitting sharp with out learning how to maintain the sharpening tool itself.

[Nuttish]

Later try the French linen thread Fil au Chinois at Fine Leather Working. They also have John James needles and Blanchard tools.

Fine Leather Working overcharges for Sajou thread. It's available elsewhere for nearly 10% less with cheaper shipping.

[thefanninator]

Fine Leather Working overcharges for Sajou thread. It's available elsewhere for nearly 10% less with cheaper shipping.

You're right. Rocky Mountain Leather Supply also sells it.

http://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/all

I've bought from both.

But FLW has an awesome blog. Let's keep'em both around. Competition is good for us.

Edited August 20, 2015 by thefanninator

[kjcreamer]

This is fantastic! Thank you for this feedback. I checked out all the thread options and read more from fine leather.com. I didn't know about some of those sites. I had just looked at Tandy and SLC. I feel like I have more direction now. I also picked up a Valerie Michael leather book from my library. It's good to know I can work with sandpaper for the time being. It takes time for you experienced people to respond to beginners questions so I thank you all.

[dikman]

The wet and dry paper (NOT sandpaper) works better, in my experience, when used wet (as in water, not oil). The water floats off the gunk, and using it wet also tends to polish the metal. Use it on a sheet of glass, if you can, as this will give a nice flat working surface.

[Oldtoolsniper]

The wet and dry paper (NOT sandpaper) works better, in my experience, when used wet (as in water, not oil). The water floats off the gunk, and using it wet also tends to polish the metal. Use it on a sheet of glass, if you can, as this will give a nice flat working surface.

Yes, I apologize for not specifying that. Wet/dry not the regular stuff. If you look up the work sharp 3000 you will see that entire system is designed around sandpaper. Google "Scary Sharp" it will answer a lot of questions on the sand paper method.

You can get finer grits of wet dry on eBay and locally at any place that sells automotive finishes.