How Do You Keep Your Knives Sharp?

[dikman]

Dave, while I've dabbled in knifemaking I definitely don't consider myself a knifemaker (in comparison to those I meet at knife shows). I did it more out of interest, in order to learn how to make one. In the process I've learned a lot about cutting tools and edged weapons, and a bit about sharpening them. (My real interest is Samurai swords).

Art's comments about the "voodoo" bit made me smile, because that's certainly been the case in the distant past, but fortunately there is now enough information out there to dispel those myths - if you look, that is. I've also found that knifemakers here are a very generous lot when it comes to sharing knowledge. Also, he's right about the abrasive steels, they are usually diamond coated and work well (I've got one, because in our kitchen it's almost impossible to keep a sharp edge on the knives (!) and being stainless knives are a pain in the butt to sharpen). But a professional wouldn't use one in a fit.

Basically, if there's enough carbon in the steel to harden it then you can make a cutting tool (knife) from it. Too much carbon and it can get brittle, too little and it won't harden. As for sharpening, some swear by water stones, some like Arkansas stones, ordinary oil stones, diamond plates - whatever works for you. For cutting leather, however, a strop is probably the best way to get that final edge that's needed. I've found that thin blades work better, and I've been using scalpel blades lately - very thin, so can flex a bit but man, do they cut!!

[DavidL]

Samurai swords are amazing pieces of art for sure. Its amazing how they were able to perfect the edge of swords way before any testing and modern equipment is available, all trial and error. I believe even to today's standard they still are up to par or above what is out now. Plus all the patterns that are made by folding and blending different steels.

For cutting leather, however, a strop is probably the best way to get that final edge that's needed. I've found that thin blades work better, and I've been using scalpel blades lately - very thin, so can flex a bit but man, do they cut!!

I think after reading these posts I will go back to a olfa box knife. I've tried stainless steel custom clicker knife, japanese kiridashi and the cheap olfa still cuts better than them all.

[dikman]

I won't start a discussion on Japanese swords, but yes, they have been described as the pinnacle of sword making.

As for the boxcutter, if it works for you that's all that matters. I have found that cutting leather, particularly thicker stuff, is a lot different to cutting other materials, and some of the implements that I thought would work have proven to be quite inadequate. I now have an odd assortment of blades that I use - Stanley knife, el-cheapo box cutter, cheap "hobby knife" kit off ebay that will take scalpel blades, disposable scalpels, Olfa rotary thing and basically anything else that I find that might work. Best thing I've found, though, is using the strop that I made - it makes a heck of a difference to blades that are used to cut leather.

All good fun.

[Colt W Knight]

Samurai swords are amazing pieces of art for sure. Its amazing how they were able to perfect the edge of swords way before any testing and modern equipment is available, all trial and error. I believe even to today's standard they still are up to par or above what is out now. Plus all the patterns that are made by folding and blending different steels.

I think after reading these posts I will go back to a olfa box knife. I've tried stainless steel custom clicker knife, japanese kiridashi and the cheap olfa still cuts better than them all.

Modern steels are far and away better than old Japanese swords. In fact, swordsmiths had to do all that "mystic" forging and folding to make up for the fact they were using such poor quality steel. Japanese swords were much thicker than european swords. I'm not saying they are bad artistically or functionally, but they are not on par with modern steel. Equally if not better swords were being made in Europe during the hay day of samurai swords. But ninjas and samurai are cool, so they get a lot of voodoo points.

I sharpen my tools with either a Norton stone or my diasharp stones. Then I keep them sharp with my steel or strop. When stripping doesn't get my swivel knife sharp anymore, I hit it on some 1500 grit wet sand paper. That way I don't have to drag my stones out.

[zuludog]

My Dad was a carpenter and I inherited his oilstones; one medium, one fine. No idea what grit size or make they are, but they do the job. They're OK for woodworking tools but for leatherworking tools I also use a homemade strop, made from scrap wood and leather.

I use Autosol car chrome polishing paste on the strop, but when it is used up I'll look for something more solid like a block of jeweller's rouge or a specialist buffing compound

I cut my leather with a Stanley knife. I've found one with a comfortable handle and a few blades that fit well without wobbling. I resharpen the blades on variations of the two stones and strop as required

The cutting seems to improve as the blades are resharpened, probably because it reduces the shoulder of the bevel, and stropping produces a polish that is higher than the original blades