Mike516 Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 Yes. Now looking to add the air over hydraulic. Boys and their toys. Haha. I'm thinking about getting one of these. I was wondering if the H-frame is better than the A-frame version and if it is necessary to weld the plates to it or can you let them "float" as someone else alluded to. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 16, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 16, 2015 Price and availability did it for me. I would think there is some of a mental struggle to weld the plates in place and give up some of the advantages of the plain press. However, I don't plan to push out bearing rings. I use c-clamps for universal joints There is very little pressure needed to punch belt slots through two pieces of 8-9 ounce leather glued together. Wouldn't want to try it on a finger though. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Mike516 Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 Gotcha thanks. I just got a 20% super saver coupon, so I'll have to take a look at what they have and how much plates are. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted October 17, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) Actually, I used the term "float"... but nothing to do with pushing bearings, chubby girls, anything like that. These presses are far from precision machines -- they wander a bit on the slide. You can move teh top bar forward / backward some (try it and you'll see). These are not precision machined dovetails. So, to avoid having a die BURIED in the cutting surface on one end and barely getting through the material on the other end, I allow it to 'float". You "could" bring the press down on both upper and lower plates, and then weld them in place with some pressure on it. And if you're going to weld them in, that IS how I would recommend doing it... so teh plates come down parallel (ish) and aren't putting twisting pressure on dies that can be expensive. And weld the bottom bar support in place right then also. BUT like i said, the top may not come down quite the same way next time.. so that's no guarantee. Perhaps teh best way to describe it... maybe to look at Red's C-clamp. Does it have a ball-socket pivoting surface on one end of the screw? THAT is what I'm talking about.. allows the pressure to be in line even if the surface isn't .. quite. Perhaps "self-leveling" would be a better term? Edited October 17, 2015 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Mike516 Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 This thing has been marked down again! With the 20% super saver coupon, I'm not sure I can pass this up right now for like 120 bucks then figure out how I want to set it up later. The other idea is to buy one with the plate on it for 475 bucks plus shipping. But I just can't see doing that as I've never even used one. I think a trip to HF is in order. Quote
Mike516 Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 So I went and picked one of these up for $135 out the door. Plus I got a free flash light lol. I set it up and I had some small 3/8 inch plates about 4x6 inches and some wood dies I had bought a little while back. Probably not the best idea to use a wood die with a 20 ton jack but I was really wanting to see how it works. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised with it. It's not a precision machine like the more expencive ones, but for the price it's a really good value. This is the time to buy this with the 20% super saver coupon. Thanks for posting this! Now I think I want a couple of 3/8 inch 20x8's and a poly board and I'll be set to cut some dog collars. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 18, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 18, 2015 "And weld the bottom bar support in place right then also." What reason would this be necessary? Sturdy? No movement? Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted October 19, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 19, 2015 Yes. Doesn't do all that much good to immobilize one and not the other. But, like I said, mine "float". Faster would be nice, but I simply can't justify $3k (or more) to gain some seconds. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Mike516 Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 I can see the better clickers being much faster. But for the price, I can't justify it either. Maybe after I make my first million $ I'll invest in better equipment. But for now, I'll go bargain basement on a few things and put the money into better materials. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted October 19, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) Agreed. I don't like to replace things that aren't broken. Plus, that $3k you aren't spending on that, pays for quite a few dies! If I was making 100 of the same thing (at a time) then the speed benefit would add up. But to cut two of these and 5 of those, just not worth the 4 minutes you'd gain. But realistically, it's not just the cost of the machine.. it's how much floor space, and am I going to have to wire in for 220v-3phase.. blahblah... Edited October 19, 2015 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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