The Saddle Stitch Have Ruined All The Fun With Leather Working :(

[DR80]

I think i have tried everything.. looked at all different instruction videos on youtube, tried different angles, thread... I can't make a decent back side.

The front looks good, but the back side straightens with normal saddle stitch. With a "knot" the front straightens.

SPI: 9

Thread: 632 Lin cable.

Total thickness of leather: 7-8oz

An example with normal saddle stitch. First needle in from left side at the top of the hole, left needle in at the bottom of the hole. Tension: left up, right down. (Tried different angles without better result. I'm stitching towards me. Me ///////// Start.

Left is the front, right back.

I'm considering to give up this know. :/

[grmnsplx]

Ok. I see your point. Can you show an example of where you cast the thread over the needle on the back side?

[DR80]

Ok. I see your point. Can you show an example of where you cast the thread over the needle on the back side?

Yes. Then it looks like this.

[TwinOaks]

holes are too big for that thread

[DR80]

holes are too big for that thread

This is the same thread, and same chisels.

Sajou Lin cable 632, and Seiwa 3mm (8,5 SPI) http://andersenleather.blogspot.dk/2015/04/watch-strap-for-speedmaster.html

I used a awl with the same dimension on one of these i think. But the result is the same. Flat on the front when i make a knot.

Edited November 2, 2015 by DR80

[25b]

Sent you a PM on how to fix your stitching.

[Bonecross]

Would be nice if you posted in here instead on PM'ing...

[25b]

Would be nice if you posted in here instead on PM'ing...

Tried that before and got called a liar, so I just send it via PM anymore. If you search, it's in another thread on saddle-stitching I posted in...a few of them, I think...

[grmnsplx]

This is the same thread, and same chisels.

Sajou Lin cable 632, and Seiwa 3mm (8,5 SPI) http://andersenleather.blogspot.dk/2015/04/watch-strap-for-speedmaster.html

I used a awl with the same dimension on one of these i think. But the result is the same. Flat on the front when i make a knot.

Interesting. The holes might be too big for that thread. Try it with some bigger thread and see if you get a better result.

[Tugadude]

Take a look at this video if you haven't.

http://youtu.be/3zTOqJCWbfY

Thickness of the leather, size of hole and size of thread will all affect the outcome.

[thefanninator]

On your example with casting the stitch some of your stitches are switching places. Make sure the thread that comes out the front stays on the bottom.

[kevinp]

Follow this your needles are going in wrong it should be left bottom right behind left and through the top.

[DR80]

Follow this your needles are going in wrong it should be left bottom right behind left and through the top.

Not even possible to see the angle of the diamond in that video. But i don't think i place the needles wrong. Did a test with different angles today. It's better but not good. Think i'm going to buy Blanchard and the inverse version (Portmanteau) Anyone has stitching examples with this combination?

[kevinp]

The angle of the awl is the same angle as the pricking mark,

[DR80]

The angle of the awl is the same angle as the pricking mark,

Ok but if you look at my latest stitching example, i think the problem is the tension angle not how the needle meets?

Edited November 3, 2015 by DR80

[25b]

You should at least attempt the method I PMed you about before potentially wasting money on a portmanteau pricking iron, but whatever...if you've got money to burn, go ahead...

[DR80]

You should at least attempt the method I PMed you about before potentially wasting money on a portmanteau pricking iron, but whatever...if you've got money to burn, go ahead...

Yes of course i'm going to do that

[25b]

Ok, well that's good. I think you may be happy with the results once you try it on a few items...

[johnv474]

Holes punched on right side of leather. Sewing toward you. Left needle in first, in top of hole. Right hand needle UNDER first needle yo form a cross. Pull first needle through, then pull up and away to right for a few inches to keep thread up in corner of hole. Rotate hand and insert right needle in bottom of hole, meaning closer towards you, while pulling the thread with left hand a little so you don't pierce. Grab second needle with left hand and pull through. Pull thread, with right hand going UP and away and left hand DOWN and toward you. Pull snug while looking at front stitch. Ignore tying knots or casting the thread for the moment. See what that does for you.

[DR80]

Holes punched on right side of leather. Sewing toward you. Left needle in first, in top of hole. Right hand needle UNDER first needle yo form a cross. Pull first needle through, then pull up and away to right for a few inches to keep thread up in corner of hole. Rotate hand and insert right needle in bottom of hole, meaning closer towards you, while pulling the thread with left hand a little so you don't pierce. Grab second needle with left hand and pull through. Pull thread, with right hand going UP and away and left hand DOWN and toward you. Pull snug while looking at front stitch. Ignore tying knots or casting the thread for the moment. See what that does for you.

Really interesting.

I attach two pictures.

The brown one (3mm total thickness) i do exactly as you said but right hand goes down and away, left hand up and towards me, and the result is good. If i do the same on the thinner leather the natural (total thickness 2mm) the back straightens)

But when i follow your directions on the thinner (natural) leather right hand up and away, left down and towards me i get quite good results.

[johnv474]

Those are stitches to the proud of. I can't explain the difference (why thinner works a little different), but I have experienced the same.

25B's suggestion is a good one too. I have tried that with success.

I suspect the true masters of this skill are versatile and adjust their style to the needs of the leather, the thickness, an personal preference. Nigel (whose stitch I admire) mention changing things up sometimes for different projects. Only machines blindly do the same thing repeatedly with no judgment. Hence, craftsmen can do some things machines can't. Hope this helped!

[DR80]

Those are stitches to the proud of. I can't explain the difference (why thinner works a little different), but I have experienced the same. 25B's suggestion is a good one too. I have tried that with success. I suspect the true masters of this skill are versatile and adjust their style to the needs of the leather, the thickness, an personal preference. Nigel (whose stitch I admire) mention changing things up sometimes for different projects. Only machines blindly do the same thing repeatedly with no judgment. Hence, craftsmen can do some things machines can't. Hope this helped!

Yes maybe the result are decent, and i know i have a little high demands on my results. I have only done this for a couple of months so i few mistakes here and there is inevitable.

Yes punch from both sides either as 25B or with portmanteau seems to work good, but it's not always possible to do with good results, like when i do a watch strap with padding, it's going to be complicated to punch from both sides. But with your tension angles i think i might get pretty good results on those straps. I appreciate your help, thank you.

[oltoot]

It will also help if you grip your work in the pony so that the stitch line is just barely above the edge of the jaws. Look at the pony and be sure that the tops of the jaws meet flush so that you can clamp the work well. That and the sharpest awl possible make conditions ideal so that consistent needle/thread handling will pay off with the desired result.

[9tpi]

Holes punched on right side of leather. Sewing toward you. Left needle in first, in top of hole. Right hand needle UNDER first needle yo form a cross. Pull first needle through, then pull up and away to right for a few inches to keep thread up in corner of hole. Rotate hand and insert right needle in bottom of hole, meaning closer towards you, while pulling the thread with left hand a little so you don't pierce. Grab second needle with left hand and pull through. Pull thread, with right hand going UP and away and left hand DOWN and toward you. Pull snug while looking at front stitch. Ignore tying knots or casting the thread for the moment. See what that does for you.

This is a great description and how I've always done it. It gives me decent results.

It will also help if you grip your work in the pony so that the stitch line is just barely above the edge of the jaws. Look at the pony and be sure that the tops of the jaws meet flush so that you can clamp the work well. That and the sharpest awl possible make conditions ideal so that consistent needle/thread handling will pay off with the desired result.

This is also key advise.

[ramrod]

Holes punched on right side of leather. Sewing toward you. Left needle in first, in top of hole. Right hand needle UNDER first needle yo form a cross. Pull first needle through, then pull up and away to right for a few inches to keep thread up in corner of hole. Rotate hand and insert right needle in bottom of hole, meaning closer towards you, while pulling the thread with left hand a little so you don't pierce. Grab second needle with left hand and pull through. Pull thread, with right hand going UP and away and left hand DOWN and toward you. Pull snug while looking at front stitch. Ignore tying knots or casting the thread for the moment. See what that does for you.

this is very close to my method, too. occasionally, i will have a run if stitches that are less than desireable - i just don't let it get too far before i pull them out and start over.

now, i'm a bit embarrassed by this question as i have sewn leather for about 15 years. but what is "casting the thread"? i know i've heard of the term before, but never really got it. also, what is the value of tying a know with each stitch?