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grmnsplx

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Everything posted by grmnsplx

  1. My girlfriend was given a sewing machine. I’m not a sewing machine guy and will likely have to figure this out for her. this looks like some kind of Singer clone. Does anyone know which model? I’ll have to look up how to thread and operate. Thanks!
  2. Ah yes that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the pics.
  3. A few years ago I actually picked up a set of clickers that match these exactly in auction, by accident. It came with a bunch of clicked out pieces. I gave all of it to the girlfriend as she has more to do with rodeo stuff. I'm just a city slicker. I later sold the clickers - actually traded them for some shell cordovan. Anyway, she thought she might whip up a few spur straps for her uncle so I took one set and thought I'd give it a try. See below the clicked out pieces (I added the holes).
  4. All, Thank you for the many replies. Yes indeed there are several sets of spur straps on the pattern page. The specific one I'm working on is the straight fold back style, but it was a general question. This came from "The Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal" May/June 2003. If the hole were for a concho, I would think it would be much smaller if it were a rivet or screwback concho. I'm not that familiar with conchos though. The spur straps attache to the spur via the button holes. So how I think the straight fold back one works is on the inside there is a D ring billet which folds over. The button hole is on the bottom so you don't see the stud come through the top. On the other side the short piece is on top and the long piece on bottom. The bottom piece has the button hole so again the stud does not come through the top. The strap goes over the foot, through the D ring and folds back. You can see that there are holes for a keeper. Maybe that's just an option. Either use a keeper or use the hole as a keeper. Makes sense. @PastorBob, pointed that out on the "Thread Through style". That one is weird though. The strap side has holes for a pin buckle, but I don't see here the buckle is supposed to go. Weird.
  5. My girlfriend has these spur strap patters from a magazine. I think I’ve got them figured out but I’ve got one question. You’ll see in the picture that there are some 3/4 inch holes in them. What is this for? Another photo Another
  6. Shitty. I bought one of these from Buckskin maybe 6 months ago. It's still in the box. I hope my experience isn't the same as yours.
  7. Kevin Lee can make one for you. $75 or so
  8. Weird. This stuff is neatsfoot oil with some petroleum distillate (heavy parrafinnic) added to it. I'll have to try some.
  9. Get some alcohol (methly hydrate aka methyl alcohol) from the hardware store and dilute your dye 4:1, even 5:1. I apply one coat and then even things out with the second. Usually a third is not necessary, but you can do further applications to get it darker.
  10. Dye or Stain? This get's mixed up all the time. The Eco-Flo Waterstain is different from the water based dye. The waterbased dye is fairly easy to apply. Thin it out with water (or alcohol) and apply with a sponge on damp leather. Watch your leather harden up, buff the shit out of it, oil the shit out of it and massage it to soften it up and then buff it some more and then seal it. The waterstain is terrible and should not be used. But if that's your thing, thin it out with some water (maybe alcohol is fine) and apply with a sponge on damp leather. Don't let any of it dry until it's all done. If it needs oil you're kinda screwed, but maybe try oiling the flesh side as it won't penetrate the the waterstain. now that you've basically ruined your leather, you can try to make whatever item you had planned and watch it crack on tight bends and at your stitching holes.
  11. Thanks for doing that @JLSleather. I look forward to your report.
  12. They may have been worth it at one time since they were the best you could get, but there has been many new entrants and these new entrants are arguably much better than VB. So on a relative basis, I'd say they are not worth the price at all.
  13. B_Geisler makes a few comments in this thread:
  14. If it's just one pocket, I think it would be fine. but, if there are going to be several layers for multiple pockets/slots, then yeah it'll be too thick.
  15. My pigskin dyes just fine. Black interior of wallet: http://imgur.com/z1UsID2 Takes oil nicely too: http://imgur.com/YeiFo88
  16. Maverick usually has several chromexcel SHF and DHF available in 2-3oz. Sometimes they even have Dublin horse. Just give them a call and see what they have. They website isn't always up to date.
  17. Looks excellent! what is a "hidden edge-flesh stitch on a butted seam" exactly? On my one and only sword scabbard I did a butted seam. It was very difficult of get it butted up nicely and was rather uneven. Any tips?
  18. "American Made" There. problem solved. Other options: "Made in 'Murica" or "'Murican made"
  19. Dimicator just posted a scabbard that he is working on. He wrapped the core with leather flesh-side out (grain in) and then stitched along the edge and trimmed the excess. Then he removed the leather, moistened is and put it back on turning it so the seam is hidden. Thoughts? https://www.facebook.com/266934476773420/photos/a.445842678882598.1073741902.266934476773420/803076186492577/?type=3&theater
  20. looks great. can you show the seam? also, how did you make the chape? thanks!
  21. I think it's ok. For traditional colours (blacks and browns), I would go with something else, but if you want a red, purple or something like that, I'm not sure if there is anything better. It's not super colour-fast. It requires some serious buffing. And you'll get transfer if you get it wet and rub on it. I'm not sure what the best finish would be. Certainly an acrylic based one will work very well, but I am not sure if that will give you the look you want. I haven't tried bag kote on it yet, so I don't know.
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