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grmnsplx

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Everything posted by grmnsplx

  1. After dyeing, let it dry. The buff the shit out of it with a soft rag like a sock. Buff it until the cloth stops picking up pigment. The you can give it a little wipe with a damp cloth and see how much the dye is still bleeding. Buff again with a dry cloth if necessary. Move on to step 3. You may see that neatsfoot oil loosens up some dye. let that dry for a good day and then buff again. Hopefully it's not too bad. Then seal.
  2. Eternoui, What do you plan on making? That's a good place to start. You can : 1. Do nothing and leave it as it is. 2. Give it a coat of gum tragacanth or the synthetic japanese stuff (tokunol??). The Japanese stuff is better I think. I have seen people use Tan Kote (Ian Atkinson does that), but I am not sure how good it actually works. 3. Cover it with another piece of leather . A think lining leather like pig might suit your purpose, depending on what that is. If you are making wallets, you could also apply a layer of fabric.
  3. Love these. Is that a fabric liner in the billfold?
  4. That's real nice. Where do you get your goat?
  5. I lined the inside of a sword sheath with goat hair.I glued the the goatskin on with rabbit skin glue which is non-corrosive. Oil the blade well and stick it in the scabbard a few times to oil the inside.
  6. Certainly burnishing is not an option here. Your best bet is to use an edgepaint or fold your edges.
  7. @John (Egyptian), how will the thread come exactly? On a spool, a card, etc? Does it depend on the amount? Thanks.
  8. Remake the outside. Sorry.
  9. I have a couple of questions about this bag. 1. The shoulder strap attaches to the bag at the back. Is there a reason for this? how would things be different if the strap were to attach at the sides? 2. What is the purpose of the side straps? 3 The sides (the gusset) seems to bulge out from the bag. Maybe this is only when empty. Would it make sense if the flap were a bit wider so that is could cover this space?
  10. Wow! Thanks for sharing! This is great. And, you did a super job.
  11. If you dye a larger piece of leather and then cut out your pieces, it will likely turn out more even.
  12. Simple and interesting. What is the purpose of the top flap? Looks like it's not needed.
  13. Sometimes stuff get sent by ship by accident. I've had stuff take 6 and 8 weeks from Japan before. Years ago, while I was living there my mother sent be stuff for Christmas. She paid for first class shipping, but something got messed up and it ended up on a ship. At least there was tracking though.
  14. Some of the Japanese brands refer to the teeth with for sizing. like 1.5mm. That's not the stitch length; it's the width of the tines (teeth). That doesn't look like the case here though. 5/32 would be a massive hole
  15. 1/8 would be 8 spi. yes, 9 holes. If SLC says that 1/8 does not give 8 spi, then they should not label it such.
  16. The proline are different than the one tugadude posted. I just have one. The 5mm one. I never use it. They aren't the best quality so I wouldn't recommend. The new ones (that tugadude posted) are much better quality but I don't like the design that much. I'd take a look at the japanese brands if I were you.
  17. Ordered a bunch of stuff from leathercrafttools.com today. will let you know how it turns out.
  18. Wow. Some awesome stuff on there.
  19. That's way too thick. Each vertical section has four layers of leather. so that's 12 layers when folded up. In that thread, someone tries 1-2 oz leather and it was quick thick.
  20. Looks nice. Is it linen, polyester or nylon. I have some natural unwaxed linen. It looks really nice on some items as it is, and its great because you can dye it yourself.
  21. Yeah just wax it yourself. No problem.
  22. I'll have to experiment. I stitch the same way regardless of which way my holes go and I have't noticed a difference.
  23. How many stitches per inch where you planning on?
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